Night park detecting with the Ace 250

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I hold a special place in my heart for the florin, and surprised you haven't hit one yet, so great stuff mate, as had been said it's a beauty. Heres to many more under the coil.
 
Gonna have to change the title of your thread to "Night beach/park detecting with the Minelab Explorer"! I imagine the quality of your finds will increase exponentially!
;)
 
Goldpick said:
First hunt for the Explorer was always going to be a pain, with a very ordinary day in Adelaide. But all the same, I was very keen to get out and try it in a few different areas, just to start learning what this detector can do - a bit of a mess around if you like.

First place to go was the beach (in between rainstorms), and conditions weren't great for detecting compared to the other night, very sanded in. Rather than being gung-ho, and try every setting known to man, I just left it in default settings to start off with, followed by a noise cancel. I ran along the dune line and picked up a couple of 5/10c coins and a large button, then moved onto the wet sand. I was quite impressed how quiet it ran, and managed to crank up the sensitivity without any real falsing. The only target I picked up on wet sand was a corroded 5c coin, but at quite a depth which was promising.

The rain eventually set in, so I headed off home, once again the rain cleared (make up ya mind weather!), so headed down to a local park where I had picked up a penny previously to see how things would pan put. Considering that spot had a fair bit of junk in it, I ended up discriminating out most junk targets, and stuck with mainly high tones targets (ie. silver). Well what do you know, first clear repeatable high tone at 00:28 pulled out a 1926 Florin, another first for me, and one happy chappy. The only other decent targets were a small toy soldier missing the top part of its body, and a 1971 1c coin, called it quits after that, just too wet.

Can't wait for the weather to clear up to have a decent go with this machine, it's ticking all the boxes so far. I only used the stock 11" coil, so will be giving the small eliptical coil a go next outing. So many local spots to re-detect, it's really hard to know where to start. :)

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405444206_img_20140716_023914.jpg

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405444229_img_20140716_023940.jpg

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405444253_img_20140716_024022.jpg

After a clean with some bi-carb.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405445728_img_20140716_030626.jpg

Nice find. So i can get ready for my next detector purchase
I purchase a 2 shilling in excellent condition which cost me
$20.
 
what year was that $20 shilling Wolfau ?
Wolfau said:
Goldpick said:
First hunt for the Explorer was always going to be a pain, with a very ordinary day in Adelaide. But all the same, I was very keen to get out and try it in a few different areas, just to start learning what this detector can do - a bit of a mess around if you like.

First place to go was the beach (in between rainstorms), and conditions weren't great for detecting compared to the other night, very sanded in. Rather than being gung-ho, and try every setting known to man, I just left it in default settings to start off with, followed by a noise cancel. I ran along the dune line and picked up a couple of 5/10c coins and a large button, then moved onto the wet sand. I was quite impressed how quiet it ran, and managed to crank up the sensitivity without any real falsing. The only target I picked up on wet sand was a corroded 5c coin, but at quite a depth which was promising.

The rain eventually set in, so I headed off home, once again the rain cleared (make up ya mind weather!), so headed down to a local park where I had picked up a penny previously to see how things would pan put. Considering that spot had a fair bit of junk in it, I ended up discriminating out most junk targets, and stuck with mainly high tones targets (ie. silver). Well what do you know, first clear repeatable high tone at 00:28 pulled out a 1926 Florin, another first for me, and one happy chappy. The only other decent targets were a small toy soldier missing the top part of its body, and a 1971 1c coin, called it quits after that, just too wet.

Can't wait for the weather to clear up to have a decent go with this machine, it's ticking all the boxes so far. I only used the stock 11" coil, so will be giving the small eliptical coil a go next outing. So many local spots to re-detect, it's really hard to know where to start. :)

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405444206_img_20140716_023914.jpg

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405444229_img_20140716_023940.jpg

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405444253_img_20140716_024022.jpg

After a clean with some bi-carb.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1695/1405445728_img_20140716_030626.jpg

Nice find. So i can get ready for my next detector purchase
I purchase a 2 shilling in excellent condition which cost me
$20.
 
What a lovely florin Goldpick,...wait till you pull an old coinspill of that era out of the one little area, well done !
 
My dad was a 1928er and so was an uncle, I do have one of those myself(found in the ground). I probably would not just go out and buy one though, maybe if I ever got that collecting bug where you buy one that's better than the one you have and then sell the old one to part fund that newer purchase(be alright if that worked well enough every move).
Wolfau said:
silver said:
what year was that $20 shilling Wolfau ?

wolfau said:
Nice find. So i can get ready for my next detector purchase
I purchase a 2 shilling in excellent condition which cost me
$20.

1928 Florin (2 Shillings)

Its a very nice coin.

There were florins in worse condition selling for more..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261527908278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
silver said:
My dad was a 1928er and so was an uncle, I do have one of those myself(found in the ground). I probably would not just go out and buy one though, maybe if I ever got that collecting bug where you buy one that's better than the one you have and then sell the old one to part fund that newer purchase(be alright if that worked well enough every move).
Wolfau said:
silver said:
what year was that $20 shilling Wolfau ?

wolfau said:
Nice find. So i can get ready for my next detector purchase
I purchase a 2 shilling in excellent condition which cost me
$20.

1928 Florin (2 Shillings)

Its a very nice coin.

There were florins in worse condition selling for more..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261527908278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The detector I am thinking of buying can be fully customised with whatever target I put under the coil assigning it with its own
unique name. So I spent $30 and bought a few different coins I have never found and will load up the detector with a unique program
designed for Australian coins. I will program the machine if I can making sure target id will be accurate upto around 6".

A test bed of some sort will be required and about 6 or so hours in testing to make sure its all good and ready to go in real life situations.

One other program will be a $1 and $2 program with an ability for the detector to differentiate between $1, $2, metal bottle cap and
aluminium screw cap. I have been researching for nearly a month now 3 high end detectors and just about ready to make the purchase
if I decide to go down this way. Sick and tired of spending 20 minutes in each detecting session digging squashed aluminium screw caps.
This is the theory anyway so time will tell whether something will work as its been explained to you by current users or not.

After using at few detectors in the past 20 years I want to make this purchase the right one. One based on extensive research
making sure target separation is fast, discriminator is brilliant to the point iron nails are discriminated out while good target nearby
is detected and I am not brand focused.
 
I wish, It would be nice to be able to tell that difference on the screen(or by sound), I used to leave the high end sounds that would do the overload thing in scan with the ace, but have found that a slightly buried or dirty surface $1 or $2 will do the same overload thing, so if it is in the 1st notch of depth I will now dig it on the off chance(and sometimes I come up with the money), so maybe you could ad that challenge in to your test bed)
Wolfau said:
silver said:
My dad was a 1928er and so was an uncle, I do have one of those myself(found in the ground). I probably would not just go out and buy one though, maybe if I ever got that collecting bug where you buy one that's better than the one you have and then sell the old one to part fund that newer purchase(be alright if that worked well enough every move).
Wolfau said:
silver said:
what year was that $20 shilling Wolfau ?

wolfau said:
Nice find. So i can get ready for my next detector purchase
I purchase a 2 shilling in excellent condition which cost me
$20.

1928 Florin (2 Shillings)

Its a very nice coin.

There were florins in worse condition selling for more..

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261527908278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The detector I am thinking of buying can be fully customised with whatever target I put under the coil assigning it with its own
unique name. So I spent $30 and bought a few different coins I have never found and will load up the detector with a unique program
designed for Australian coins. I will program the machine if I can making sure target id will be accurate upto around 6".

A test bed of some sort will be required and about 6 or so hours in testing to make sure its all good and ready to go in real life situations.

One other program will be a $1 and $2 program with an ability for the detector to differentiate between $1, $2, metal bottle cap and
aluminium screw cap. I have been researching for nearly a month now 3 high end detectors and just about ready to make the purchase
if I decide to go down this way.

After using at least 8 detectors I want to make this purchase the right one. One based on extensive research making sure target
separation is fast, discriminator is brilliant to the point iron nails are discriminated out while good target nearby is detected.
 
silver said:
I wish, It would be nice to be able to tell that difference on the screen(or by sound), I used to leave the high end sounds that would do the overload thing in scan with the ace, but have found that a slightly buried or dirty surface $1 or $2 will do the same overload thing, so if it is in the 1st notch of depth I will now dig it on the off chance(and sometimes I come up with the money), so maybe you could ad that challenge in to your test bed

Not sure how successful this will be thou will try my best and will keep anyone interested posted.

Would be awesome to have a high success rate in distinguishing between the caps and our $1 and $2 coins.
 
Sandta said:
Hey Wolf , that sounds like the perfect detector . :)

It is not gonna be 100% accurate nothing is and as they say for you not to miss anything
you need to dig it all and the the odd screw cap might come through either way.

The only thing you can do is give it a go and that's what I am going to do.

Would be nice to cherry pick a site though with a decent detector that behaves the
way you have programmed it to.

Thanks for reading about my little project.

I wonder where Goldpick is?
 
The big test will be to get someone with a normal detector to hit a site after you have finished to see if there was anything overlooked by your machine.
 
silver said:
The big test will be to get someone with a normal detector to hit a site after you have finished to see if there was anything overlooked by your machine.

I plan on doing this exactly. I already have spent an hour or so tonight researching an old ghost town.

The last time I visited this place was about 15 years ago and has been hammered over the years.

One difference though between detectors is processing speed between bad and good targets.

There are a few awesome detectors out there though. Would love to see a 3d high definition
scanning type of detector where you can see the target and its shape right on screen as the ground
is being scanned. How cool would that be to see a pull tab or beer bottle screw cap on screen?
 
It would be good to try a really good quick recovery machine, although the Ace250 doesn't seem to need any time at all, I can scan and tell how many targets are there and then run the machine across them and end up with all the info I need. I think it's just when things are right on top of each other that I have to go slower to try and clarify a difference that can be usefull. But I can't imagine what a good one would be like as that's the best I know.
 
Hey Wolf , i read all the related posts , cant get enough ... Lots of info . The problem is it doesnt all sink in straight away
I cant type very well either , by the time i write a reply ... Another post or two have been written ,
So ... As for Goldpick ... Im sure hes out giving his new toy a good workout ...
Cant wait to read all about it in the morning...
 
Hi Sandta, Its an awesome place on the web to
chill and chat with Like minded people.

Its an awesome hobby as long as you have places to
detect as well and you get some excercise as well.

Keep on beeping its a matter of time till you find a
Nice gold ring. I understand about processing info
I am in the same boat.
 
Currently I'm sitting out in my shed, had very heavy rain, hail and some thunder, so may get out tonight if there is a break in the weather. :(
 
Goldpick said:
Currently I'm sitting out in my shed, had very heavy rain, hail and some thunder, so may get out tonight if there is a break in the weather. :(

Cool. If you decide to head just make sure you protect
Your machine.

We will be getting your weather tomm i think..
 

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