What is this specimen worth please?

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Hello, I am considering selling this specimen. It weighs 3.7g and I have absolutely no idea what it is worth. I know it might be difficult to tell with photos only, but a rough guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 

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Mate, it's not just "difficult" - it's impossible. You need to do an SG test to work out how much of that 3.7 grams is gold and how much is ironstone.

Visually, it looks like there's more gold than rock, so if there's 2.5g of gold at say $120/gram, it would be worth around $300 - rough guidance only, as requested.
 
Hello, I am considering selling this specimen. It weighs 3.7g and I have absolutely no idea what it is worth. I know it might be difficult to tell with photos only, but a rough guidance would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Goto Supacheap Auto and buy some Septone Alibrite. It is 1% hydrofluoric acid, which is the only easily obtainable acid that will dissolve most rocks. It wont dissolve gold. A week or 2 in 25ml of pure Alibrite, pref somewhere warm but well away from living areas and kids, and your nugget will at least look a million dollars.

After aciding if you take it to a jewellers and get it ultrasound cleaned ( or buy a cheap cleaner) it will look 10 million dollars :)
 
I usually just ebay all my found specimens at the entire weight of the piece regardless of how much rock is in it. for example: 3.7g at gold price, + any fees (ebay fee calculator works best) on auction for 7 days. usually get a few bids and it sells for more than gold price. Never had any problems, always do signature delivery. I have also met a few collectors this way and can deal with them away from ebay. I never soak or destroy specimens in acids anymore as they are worth more in their natural form.
 
Goto Supacheap Auto and buy some Septone Alibrite. It is 1% hydrofluoric acid, which is the only easily obtainable acid that will dissolve most rocks. It wont dissolve gold. A week or 2 in 25ml of pure Alibrite, pref somewhere warm but well away from living areas and kids, and your nugget will at least look a million dollars.

After aciding if you take it to a jewellers and get it ultrasound cleaned ( or buy a cheap cleaner) it will look 10 million dollars :)
Good Advice
 
Using acid risks deglazing any natural sheen and at worst risks dissolving the binding ironstone for the enclosed “nuggetty” gold to fall into pieces.
Selling as a specimen involves a buyer knowing how much gold it contains so you have no choice but to learn how to do a SG test. It is quite easy and there are threads on this forum on how to do one.
 
Hydroflouric acid also sold 100% rust reverser - available bunnings autobarn etc
That's incorrect. Hydrofluoric Acid is a restricted substance & isn't readily available over ~1%. Some restricted cleaning products I've seen contain ~35% but even at that are restricted for supply & transport being highly toxic.
Laboratories use it at around 70% as over 70% just fumes with air contact.
To give an idea of how toxic this acid is: 1990's an Australian laboratory technician was dissolving sedimentary rocks with hydrofluoric & hydrochloric acid in a fume cupboard. He inadvertently spilled a small quantity (100-230ml) of ~70%w/w hydroflouric acid into his lap while handling outside of the fume cupboard. He was seated & only wearing wrist length pvc gloves. To cut a long story short he became unconcious after being admitted to intensive care, his condition continued to deteriorate & his right leg was amputed after 7 days. He passed away in hospital after 15 days from multi-organ failure.
This stuff is nasty.
Any laboratory safe use documents I've read now require face shields/safety goggles, full pvc apron/coveralls with sleeve protection & mid length gloves, rubber boots, at least 2x people present when in use, & a ready supply of calcium gluconate gel.
In many cases these requirements are for hydrofluoric acid over ~1%w/w.
Hydroflouric acid <0.1% is Schedule 5 poison, <1% is Schedule 6 poison & >1% is a Schedule 7 poison.
Users located in an industrial area or on a mine site require a permit to legally purchase & use hydrofluoric acid in Schedule 7.

Rust converter/remover/reverser etc. usually contains Phosphoric Acid at best or a solvent.
 
That's incorrect. Hydrofluoric Acid is a restricted substance & isn't readily available over ~1%. Some restricted cleaning products I've seen contain ~35% but even at that are restricted for supply & transport being highly toxic.
Laboratories use it at around 70% as over 70% just fumes with air contact.
To give an idea of how toxic this acid is: 1990's an Australian laboratory technician was dissolving sedimentary rocks with hydrofluoric & hydrochloric acid in a fume cupboard. He inadvertently spilled a small quantity (100-230ml) of ~70%w/w hydroflouric acid into his lap while handling outside of the fume cupboard. He was seated & only wearing wrist length pvc gloves. To cut a long story short he became unconcious after being admitted to intensive care, his condition continued to deteriorate & his right leg was amputed after 7 days. He passed away in hospital after 15 days from multi-organ failure.
This stuff is nasty.
Any laboratory safe use documents I've read now require face shields/safety goggles, full pvc apron/coveralls with sleeve protection & mid length gloves, rubber boots, at least 2x people present when in use, & a ready supply of calcium gluconate gel.
In many cases these requirements are for hydrofluoric acid over ~1%w/w.
Hydroflouric acid <0.1% is Schedule 5 poison, <1% is Schedule 6 poison & >1% is a Schedule 7 poison.
Users located in an industrial area or on a mine site require a permit to legally purchase & use hydrofluoric acid in Schedule 7.

Rust converter/remover/reverser etc. usually contains Phosphoric Acid at best or a solvent.
Thank you for putting that up. Anyone recommending hydrofluoric needs to get educated.
 
Using acid risks deglazing any natural sheen and at worst risks dissolving the binding ironstone for the enclosed “nuggetty” gold to fall into pieces.
Selling as a specimen involves a buyer knowing how much gold it contains so you have no choice but to learn how to do a SG test. It is quite easy and there are threads on this forum on how to do one.
If you're a person who is only interested is the gold value. However most collectors I've met are more interested in its natural shape, appearance, shifts of colour mixed with the gold. They tend to like spotty gold or tendrils of gold poking out of the rock. It doesn't have to be loaded with gold either, it could be smaller pieces dotted over the rock, or one piece poking out in such a way it captures your interest with your eyes giving that sense of wow. The rock parts have value too.

If it was my piece I would be selling it for $416 or $485 on eBay + 13.55 post (signature on delivery) and i know it would sell. Yes more than its gold content but collectors aren't interested in just its gold value, hence why they are collectors and not your average joe wanting it for its gold value.
 
It depends!
If you're selling the gold just crush it up and sell the gold.

Leave it as is.
If it was mine i would rather keep it.
Collectors will pay more than the gold content.
 
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Goto Supacheap Auto and buy some Septone Alibrite. It is 1% hydrofluoric acid, which is the only easily obtainable acid that will dissolve most rocks. It wont dissolve gold. A week or 2 in 25ml of pure Alibrite, pref somewhere warm but well away from living areas and kids, and your nugget will at least look a million dollars.

After aciding if you take it to a jewellers and get it ultrasound cleaned ( or buy a cheap cleaner) it will look 10 million dollars :)
Used to be 4% but its a very dangerious acid now only 1%
 

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