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Thanks for the comment Highway 1, and although i know you are absolutely right, you are now responsible for turning a quick fix solution into a project. :rolleyes: But seriously, Thanks :Y:
Highway1 said:
Once again well done SS. I think I would have some extra supports for those poles, to stop them from moving around when you have the weight of the camper on them. Might be just me, but 30 min work now might save you from having a bad situation. :Y: :Y:
 
So after HW1 suggested i would probably need to support the posts to avoid a possible sway up and major headache, i swung on the posts to check them out and determined he was correct :Y: I went on an extended tour of my sheds at both properties, took stock of what i had and came up with a plan of sorts.

Ive put some 90x45 rails in between the posts and the existing shed. Had to undo and insert the gantry bolts in the opposite direction because that was where the joist hangars had to go :| The rails are level from front to rear and have a 10mm fall from right to left. This is just in case i follow up with an iron roof :rolleyes: I have a rainwater tank that can be easily moved to the fence side of the gantry, and i have enough salvaged guttering to cover the entire side length of the gantry. :p

I had to use 2 different sized joist hangers cause i didn't have 4 of the same :8 This has made the structure solid as a rock, so thanks HW1 :Y: Now the other minor detail is there is a 40mm difference in the width between rails from front end to back end. i can't do much about this as the posts on the shed dictate where the joists have to go, same as the p/pine posts dictate at the other end. However it's not the end of the world and i can allow for this if i put an iron roof on, or don't care at all if i use shadecloth. :D

I've also resurrected an old bed frame to get my pre welded angle for the support of the top beam of the gantry. :) Oh did i mention i'm not a builder and can't weld :eek: The only question before attaching the angle is use them as is? or cut the long end to match the short end?

Next i found a 90x90mm galv post to use for my jig, However it is not quite long enough. I was thinking that mabye i can use it with the 40x25mm galv rail on the inside to give me the extra length and still retain enough strength?

Thoughts appreciated, but please remember, (altogether now) i'm not a builder. ]:D

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aussiefarmer said:
Might have to adjust the height when shes fully loaded and trailer hitched on :Y: , but for $52.40 i reckon thats well built :Y:
Yeah AF ..I figured they are a little to close to the ground.. :8
And not looking forward to adjusting them as they are a bugger to cut :eek:
 
X4 :lol:
If your not worried about those lights mounting ontop of the tow hitch reciever would give you a long and short setup easily for big and small loads.

Shes fairly thick belt , stanely knife with a straight edge is the way i cut belt here , clamping it to a drum or rounded surface will open the cut after each pass .
 
Tommtb7 said:
I would have to get my hands on one, I heard the black sand can trap the gold around it?
EBay,,m8, i just got one on order 50mm,cost $28.00 with a lifting eye.
 
nucopia said:
aussiefarmer said:
Might have to adjust the height when shes fully loaded and trailer hitched on :Y: , but for $52.40 i reckon thats well built :Y:
Yeah AF ..I figured they are a little to close to the ground.. :8
And not looking forward to adjusting them as they are a bugger to cut :eek:

Honestly Nuco, lay them flat, use a straight edge and a Stanley knife. Try it on an off cut. Run the knife the whole length down a few mm then do it again, cutting deeper each time.

Takes no time at all and is heaps easier than a hacksaw. I just cut 6 lengths over a metre each cut about an hour ago.
 
ingenious. I paid about $30 for one made by a 3d printer and I bet yours works better albeit a lot cheaper.
 
I rescued this huge cast iron gearbox before it went into a scrap bin.

I thought it was too good to waste , and i love to recycle .

So it got recycled.

It took me a whole day to plane down some seasoned hardwood , glue it and screw it together , stain and seal it and cut it to shape for the base.

My gold paint on the embossed lettering isnt perfect but it will have to do.

The succulent plant was the easy part.

The gearbox is date stamped 1867 , it stands 1200 mm high and probably weighs 250 kg

I have considered selling it but probably wont get the money i spent on labour . LOL

I know you can buy a plastic pot from Bunny House for $ 3 but i think my pot plant is better.

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HeadsUp said:
I rescued this huge cast iron gearbox before it went into a scrap bin.

I thought it was too good to waste , and i love to recycle .

So it got recycled.

It took me a whole day to plane down some seasoned hardwood , glue it and screw it together , stain and seal it and cut it to shape for the base.

My gold paint on the embossed lettering isnt perfect but it will have to do.

The succulent plant was the easy part.

The gearbox is date stamped 1867 , it stands 1200 mm high and probably weighs 250 kg

I have considered selling it but probably wont get the money i spent on labour . LOL

I know you can buy a plastic pot from Bunny House for $ 3 but i think my pot plant is better.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/414/1513254982_pot_plant.jpg

Great work. Just make sure you anchor it down. We do a bit of Geocaching and in 2014 we placed a geocache in Bunyip Road, Busselton.

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We broke the Geocaching rules an concreted it into the ground. On several occasions it has been dislodged from its original position in an attempt to steal it. If it didn't have a big chunk of concrete hanging onto the bottom it would have gone a long time ago.
 

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