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kawman said:
I am from taree and have one of those pumps.. I had to refit the rubber gaskets on the water pump to get it to work.. It pumps well now.. I recommend changing the oil before use as well... great looking setup.. :) ........................

yup

change the oil to good quality Penrite , Honda , Castrol etc

run it for 20 - 30 minutes

change the oil

run it for 3 - 8 hours

change the oil

then do oil changes every 6 - 12 months depending on usage

love to hear how long a $ 130 pump will last 8)
 
I will use mine until it dies... And abandon it where ever it beaks down for some other guy to find.. ;)
HeadsUp said:
kawman said:
I am from taree and have one of those pumps.. I had to refit the rubber gaskets on the water pump to get it to work.. It pumps well now.. I recommend changing the oil before use as well... great looking setup.. :) ........................

yup

change the oil to good quality Penrite , Honda , Castrol etc

run it for 20 - 30 minutes

change the oil

run it for 3 - 8 hours

change the oil

then do oil changes every 6 - 12 months depending on usage

love to hear how long a $ 130 pump will last 8)
 
I bought poly fittings for a hand trommel, hopefully time well spent to speed up the classifying, much to the shagrin of the other half. Don't blame her really just got finished a new highbanker build and testing.If i have any luck I'll put it in the diy.
 
HeadsUp said:
kawman said:
I am from taree and have one of those pumps.. I had to refit the rubber gaskets on the water pump to get it to work.. It pumps well now.. I recommend changing the oil before use as well... great looking setup.. :) ........................

yup

change the oil to good quality Penrite , Honda , Castrol etc

run it for 20 - 30 minutes

change the oil

run it for 3 - 8 hours

change the oil

then do oil changes every 6 - 12 months depending on usage

love to hear how long a $ 130 pump will last 8)

Will do...I did read a post of yours in another thread mentioning the oil changes. I will set it all up at home and give the initial 30 min run and change the oil.
If the pumping capacity is true, it will never have to go over 1/2 throttle and maybe the pump may last a while.
 
ok

I've got a question, why on these high bankers do people use both a welded and HVO( expanded Sheet) riffle system. Is the HVO compensating for inefficiencies in the welded riffle system? Or what does it achieve?
 
Got it in one there Village, the moss should catch the gold, but they throw the expanded in as a safeguard when the "Lazy L's" are spaced too far apart. ;)

Cheers Wal.
 
Nope still doesn' t make an equation, on commercial sluices HVO 45 or 60 is used cause we are lazy, it is simple and quick riffle system. So if the riffle is used to create a dead zone in the water, causing the load to loose momentum and settle, what is hoped to achieve with smaller rifles in between. I could see an argument on clay and silt augmentation but this would be compensating for lack hydraulic design.

Ok I think it would be interesting to hear what the best ratio statement is for a riffle design.

That would be where HAS@SA

Where H, is height of rifle from sluice floor to the vertical point highest in its plane

A, is the most effective angle of the rifle based on the horizontal plane of the sluice being zero

S, being the spacing of the riffles

SA, Optimal Sluice Angle

I think a ratio would be most appropriate so anyone could adapt it to whatever size sluice they want to build.

So an A typical ratio might look like. 1.25: 45 : 2 : 6

Would be most interesting to see what comes up and what would be settled on
 
Expanded is not used commercially because we are "Lazy". It's used because it is efficient if in the right config, and can handle high volume if spread over a wide enough area. They do have a loss rate of from 6% to 10%, but "Lazy L's" have a greater loss rate with similar large volume.

There's a lot more involved with riffle design than a constant ratio, as we are dealing with unknowns such as load content and water speed to load ratios. A vertical riffle for instance needs a faster water speed than a 45 or 60 deg sloped riffle. A reverse sloping riffle creates a different vortex to a forward sloping riffle.

There's been testing on riffle design for the past 150 years, and there's still not a design out there that can be considered "perfect" in this mathematical world of ours. If there was then the "big boys" with the "Millions" in turnover would use them, as a 10% savings on losses through the box adds up to big bucks.

In my opinion, one should use whichever riffle system suits their sluicing arrangements, based on research of existing systems and not based on mathematical formulas.....That's how the "big boys" handle their commercial plants, and they have access to some pretty good hydraulic engineers. ;)

PS: If we want to discuss riffle design, would be better not in this section but in the DIY or Prospecting Equipment section.

Cheers Wal.
 
Dont ever think mathematics is ever perfect, the type of material you are running through, water pressure is good, but if not enough, clean her out more often, i almost think you could run the full banker with bread crate and half the pressure, if not sure of the efficientcy of the banker just throw a bucket after it see what comes through. I think the whole reason wall uses bread crate is it extends water flow and clears itself very well, but in the same time it catches ALL the heavies, provided your pressure. I think people always spend too much money searching for what they think is the best idea when often it is the most simplest. Much respect
 
Nothing to with personal riffle choice here Charlie....talking Hydraulics here and not comparisons. Start a new topic in Prospecting Equipment if anyone wants to elaborate on riffle designs. ;) We don't want to hijack this thread.

Cheers Wal.
 
charlie123 said:
Dont ever think mathematics is ever perfect, the type of material you are running through, water pressure is good, but if not enough, clean her out more often, i almost think you could run the full banker with bread crate and half the pressure, if not sure of the efficientcy of the banker just throw a bucket after it see what comes through. I think the whole reason wall uses bread crate is it extends water flow and clears itself very well, but in the same time it catches ALL the heavies, provided your pressure. I think people always spend too much money searching for what they think is the best idea when often it is the most simplest. Much respect
I am with you, I take note of people I know get gold. I saw Wal get gold with the crate, got one, now I get gold with the crate. So 1+1=lots. Thats all the maths need.
 
Nar not at all, we use HVO cause we are lazy, the cost and weight of fabricating a riffle system from flat bar is expensive labour wise, the bar, tube, angle or what ever profile deflects over long distances, so bigger wall sections come up and it ends up to heavy to be man handled. Then we have to add a lifting Device, this then must be certified, continuously. We are lazy.

Had two wash plants, designing the third. This one is 34% more compact fitting onto 4 x 45 ft drop trailers. But there is a wealth of experience here on the forum with fabricated riffles, no real answers posted. I am interested, I' ll go out on a limb here, and say that I am pretty sure that there would be other members whom would find it of interest and benefit.

Load content has nothing to do with it, this is a variable that is controlled by design, in that the width of the sluice, this will no change the ratio. The vertical or sloped issue I think is solved, no one is using vertical cause of the sediment retention factors and the failure to create the dead zone in hydraulic flow.

The issue of the forward( down sluice) or reverse riffle slope to has been defeated I think, forward riffles create the required hydraulic dead zone in the shadow zone of the rifle, reverse riffle design can do this, but requires substantial hydraulic increase, no gain.

So I think that if we everybody input their preferred design ratio wise, then we would find a correlation in the results, especially those who have progressed from the beta phase to versions d, e, f and so on.

I think a lot of members follow the posts, build their own projects, for some, half the fun, why not gather the wealth of experience into a ratio that could then be applied. Of course The progression of the ratio would be to have a table whereby H x width can be linked to required liters per minute, and ultimately pump size.

It's up to you guys I suppose, I noticed that the designs available have an inherent problem, you guys have the wealth of knowledge at this level of throughput, Jesus I 'll do the matrix equation to provide a table, even test it by building one off the table in the work shop and when it proves successfull it can be given away in a forum contest.

At the commercial level, yeah you pay for engineers, amongst other professions but the comprehension of the behaviors of gold is not something they teach. A talented prospectors eye, well now that's a commodity you just can't buy.

Food for thought
 
Yeah a different forum maybe, or subject heading, see if it gets legs or heads in the sand
 
Final request guys....please start a separate thread in the "Prospecting Equipment" section as this could diversify into some useful information for those interested.

Cheers Wal.
 
I would say when talking load, this means if I put a shovel through the banker every 2 seconds with the amount of water flow i have will determine how long i have to wait to put another shovel through. If I do not wait I am thus putting load on the banker, clogging it up the riffles temporarily before enough water/time cleans the riffles
 
charlie123 said:
I would say when talking load, this means if I put a shovel through the banker every 2 seconds with the amount of water flow i have will determine how long i have to wait to put another shovel through. If I do not wait I am thus putting load on the banker, clogging it up the riffles temporarily before enough water/time cleans the riffles

I think at some point we start a new topic, somewhere, I think we , or I, am already in trouble
 
On Sunday I bought a Cub Off Road Drover Spacematic camper trailer at the Newcastle Camping Show. Once it is built it will fit the Engel fridge/freezer and the 60 L Engel BEER FRIDGE. What more could a person want in retirement......mmmmm beer...... :p
 
Buy some correct type silicone spray for the zippers asap... The area of canvas on the EARLY MODEL spacematics was far too large and burst the zippers a lot ..especialy the doorway zipper... I repaired dozens of them... I don't know if they have sorted this on later models and hope I may save you some trouble with this info...Most of the trouble came from shrinkage in the canvas...about 3% longitudinaly and approx. 1.5% in the width of the canvas.. over the top of a spacematic the canvas will shrink in length by about 250 mm.. hope this helps.. :)
penfooey said:
On Sunday I bought a Cub Off Road Drover Spacematic camper trailer at the Newcastle Camping Show. Once it is built it will fit the Engel fridge/freezer and the 60 L Engel BEER FRIDGE. What more could a person want in retirement......mmmmm beer...... :p
 

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