Removing old roofing screws.

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I wouldn't move the sheets 20mm either. 20mm up, the bottom will not overhang the gutter = leaks into the eaves. 20mm down would leave a gap under the ridge capping = possible leaks if the wind is blowing that way. The self tapper and pot rivet already have silicone on them.
You can add a half sheet or such under to make that method work for you...... Best to do it on the Gutter end... but if no turn up on top Do it on the top end and Sheets should be layed opposite to prevailing Weather. is a must.... I have seen water flow up 4 stories high being forced by wind.....

I can send pics if your not sure what i mean...:)

LW...
 
LONEWOLF. There's no turn ups under the ridge caps. I'll try and bend them up. How do you bend them up or down 40mm without splitting the edge. I've tried that before on another area, but, they just split, so I just put a dab of silicone underneath to stop the water running under the sheet and into the house. This was on another part of the house which has a flatter slope on it. Some pictures would be good. wiley.
 
Never bend them down, ALWAYS UP... So your roof ridge looks similar to this..? without the too small turn up.. Not corro but similar.... They should have used pliers on this but they used a special turn-up tool that was too wide for the sheet, thats why it has split...


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So turn up like this pic
images (2).jpg

You can do it being corro using a pair of Pliers... Just go gently. stop IF THE SHEET LOOKS LIKES SPLITING BEING VERY OLD CORRO..... Up to about 25-30mm in and about a 30deg bend up....
If you can google, "Turn ups on metal roofs images," there are videos on how to do it..... Im hopeless putting vids up on here...

This is the vid you need to watch... just look for this image... And it takes you to youtube...
download (2).jpg

ROOFING Silicone should be used on top, not under as the water will still get in and find another exit point... Doing it on top will stop the water getting in in the first place.. and protect the sheet as well..... Thats what you want.....

Hope this helps... Ask if you are not too sure on something....

LW...
 
I would get a good block of wood, use a jigsaw to cut that block of wood to the contour of the roofing. Then use a pinch bar and hammer and using that cut block of wood to support these tools to remove the nails without bending the roofing.

Otherwise, I would just lay a protective layer on top of the the old roof with new roofing, which will be extra protection from the elements. You can flatten the old nails, so they are not in the way.
 
They usually are aluminium and the only way is to se a flat board across the corries and a pitch around and hammer. It will probably pull the heads off but at least then you can get the sheets off the other alternative is to put new batteries on top of the sheets and then put the new Cory over the whole roof

That is pinch bar and batons
 
IMG_20230212_205224_1.jpg
Here's a sample of the screws I'm trying to take out. Some came out using a screwdriver with a good edge on it. If they had paint in the slot, that didn't work. Tried a hacksaw, but the handle and the other end would not let the blade get near the slot to clean it out. If they were a bit loose I could get vice grips to grip the head and unscrew them. I also found that the washer under the screw was made of lead, so crushing it up against the screw with the vice grips, I was able to undo the really tight ones. IMG_20230211_150818.jpg
 
Here's some photos of the roof. The gable's about 45 degrees, and the flatter roof is about 22 degrees. Guesstimate! The black coreflute is covering where the leak is in the roof, and the circle with leak in it, is where it's dripping from the ceiling onto the table. So, It's got to be coming from somewhere above that. Any Ideas? wiley.
 
IMG_20230211_145932_1.jpgMe neither! The most obvious problem there is, the gable corros don't line up with the lower sheets. The house is not square, as it was built by miners. So nothing fits precisely. If you try to align one sheet, it throws others off line and makes it even worse. I've got a feeling someone's mixed metric sheets with the older imperial sheets which are a different width, and profile, which makes it harder still, to get them aligned.
 
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If you can get the steep pitch (45 degrees) sheets up at the bottom and slide in some Wacker Flex flashing tape. It's a lead replacement flashing which will adhere to just about everything, brilliant product.

https://wakaflex.com.au/
Available in varying widths to suit varying applications. Without replacing the flatter roof sheets (which still requires the steep pitch to be lifted at the bottom) you will be fixing leaks from time to time. Looks like a fair bit of patchwork has already taken place previously. What ever you do is going to either cost plenty or doing it yourself, take time and a good plan. At a minimum check out wacker flex, have a really good look at your roof knowing what wacker flex can offer, hopefully it'll tick the boxes and save you a quid or two.
 
Lol..... Lead Screws they were called in the early days.... Wiley, where do i start.... .. Sorry bloke..... Is that corflute on all the time or just to show us where you think the leak is ?....

LW....
 
Lol..... Lead Screws they were called in the early days.... Wiley, where do i start.... .. Sorry bloke..... Is that corflute on all the time or just to show us where you think the leak is ?....

LW....
HI LONEWOLF. Not on all the time. Just since It started leaking about 3 months ago. I t stopped It from leaking, so It went onto my long list of non urgent jobs! I traced the water stains a bit further up from the leak, but couldn't find the cause of the leak. Maybe heavy winds were blowing the rain up the lower roof sheet, and over a small lip at the end of the corro. The small sheets below the gabled sheetsIMG_20230213_143419_1.jpgIMG_20230213_140942.jpgIMG_20230213_143858_1.jpgIMG_20230213_140934_1.jpg are about a metre long, with 400mm of it under the gable. Some have had strips cut out of them so they'll slide past the joists of the gable. These have some sort of silicone/ no more gaps built up around the cut parts to act as a barrier to stop the rain entering there. I built them up a bit more, and made the lip on the end larger with a ball pein hammer. Maybe that'll stop the leak! The bush fixes must have worked, as, this is the first time I've ever noticed a leak in all the years I've owned it! wiley.
 
If you can clean the underside it will give you a better idea... But iI have named a few issues... Hard with-out being there...

7846-57731b684ed7e281de1ee5341e2508c7.jpg

Just noticed old screw holes on the Far Bottom of pic as well... Bellow screws....

LW....
 

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If you want to get some of those tough screws off, maybe use an angle grinder and grind a cross ➕ slot and use a philips head screwdriver to get them off
 
If you can clean the underside it will give you a better idea... But iI have named a few issues... Hard with-out being there...

View attachment 7945

Just noticed old screw holes on the Far Bottom of pic as well... Bellow screws....

LW....

Hi. LONEWOLF. I got up on the roof to check those holes you mentioned. Although they look unfilled, they have been filled with some black gunk. tar maybe. Did you get any feedback on those T@ J walker sheets. wiley.
 

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