Minelab SD2000 tips, settings, questions

[Nightjar]

https://www.minelab.com/__files/f/4249/Instruction Manual SD2000_Scan.pdf

 

[Mollongghip]

Thanks NightJar
Got a printed copy of the same, no mention of machine gunning...
Going out tomorrow for a swing so will see if I can learn a little more from a little more swing and scraping

 

[bend]

If you don't have one already get a booster, it'll make a big difference on the sub grammers. The "machine gunning" sounds like the old girl is just overloading due to the size and closeness of the target, try it on a bit of shot or a .22 bullet or something small like that a bit further away/deeper and see if it keeps happening. Oh and don't forget a crowbar if you're using larger coils, a 16" DD will pick up a chunk of bobcat tooth at 3 foot and it's a lot easier if you don't have to go all the way home to get the crowbar.

 

[user 7222]

Moll, I swing a SD2000. Email me if you need some help.

 

[cantfind46]

Hi everyone im new so i am sorry if im in the wrong area. We have a problem with our sd2000 sound and the problem directs us to the following part
thermal protector 17AM203A5 . Im just wondering where i could get one of these or know of something we could replace it with.

thanks all

Dee

 

[GaryO]

Perhaps u could try WES.

https://www.wes.com.au/

 

[SteelPat]

I just checked my schematic of the SD2000 to see if there was a readily available alternative but I can not find a thermal protector in the audio circuit. Where is the part located in the circuit?

 

[cantfind46]

hello to both of you and thankyou for youtr replies, i have tried to up load a picture of the part but im not sure if i have done it correctly

thanks

dee

 

[AngerManagement]

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/8971/1481112913_img_2465.jpg

hello to both of you and thankyou for youtr replies, i have tried to up load a picture of the part but im not sure if i have done it correctly

thanks

dee

Set to fail at 80C +/-5c A common device...

Read Here for the specs... Plenty of others that will do the job and you can even get the resettable ones - will reset once the temp falls to an acceptable level..

http://www.sensata.com/download/17am.pdf

 

[SteelPat]

I wonder why they have put a thermal switch in an alloy box that doesnt appear to be up against anything that gets warm. They are usually mounted on heatsinks or against something that gets hot.

 

[AngerManagement]

I wonder why they have put a thermal switch in an alloy box that doesnt appear to be up against anything that gets warm. They are usually mounted on heatsinks or against something that gets hot.

Looked like a typical thermo device connected on the SD battery pack and has the headphone connector there as well.

Not seen the Ally box used before so can not say as to standard or aftermarket mod.

 

[GaryO]

No definitely standard on the Sd2000 anger..

Edit ... just thinking back my machine had a frequency /channel mod so perhaps it was changed then as mine had the exact same box.

 

[SteelPat]

I wonder why they have put a thermal switch in an alloy box that doesnt appear to be up against anything that gets warm. They are usually mounted on heatsinks or against something that gets hot.

Looked like a typical thermo device connected on the SD battery pack and has the headphone connector there as well.

Not seen the Ally box used before so can not say as to standard or aftermarket mod.

Yeah its a standard thermal switch but they need physical contact with the heat source. They arent designed to work as an overcurrent device which going by the photo is how its hooked up.

 

[AngerManagement]

I wonder why they have put a thermal switch in an alloy box that doesnt appear to be up against anything that gets warm. They are usually mounted on heatsinks or against something that gets hot.

Looked like a typical thermo device connected on the SD battery pack and has the headphone connector there as well.

Not seen the Ally box used before so can not say as to standard or aftermarket mod.

Yeah its a standard thermal switch but they need physical contact with the heat source. They arent designed to work as an overcurrent device which going by the photo is how its hooked up.

YEP - but did not see the unit b4 it was stripped down ?

All thermal fuses need to be placed where you want the protection...

Mind you in a car on a hot day - the air could get very warm, but not great for charging protection.

 

[AuMan]

It is there to prevent overcurrent and or damage if one hooks up the battery the wrong way around.
I think one time I had a short somewhere in my detector and I could hear it turn on briefly then shut off again after a second or 2 and a light clicking could be heard from the silver junction box as this was happening.

You could try a 1.5A slow blow fuse as an alternative. It needs to be slow blow due to the high inrush current peak when the detector is first turned on.

 

[SteelPat]

It is there to prevent overcurrent and or damage if one hooks up the battery the wrong way around.
I think one time I had a short somewhere in my detector and I could hear it turn on briefly then shut off again after a second or 2 and a light clicking could be heard from the silver junction box as this was happening.

You could try a 1.5A slow blow fuse as an alternative. It needs to be slow blow due to the high inrush current peak when the detector is first turned on.

A thermal switch is not designed for overcurrent protection. If it has been used for that purpose then the person who designed and installed it does not understand how a thermal switch works. They would be better off using a PTC or something like that for overcurrent protection

 

[AuMan]

It is there to prevent overcurrent and or damage if one hooks up the battery the wrong way around.
I think one time I had a short somewhere in my detector and I could hear it turn on briefly then shut off again after a second or 2 and a light clicking could be heard from the silver junction box as this was happening.

You could try a 1.5A slow blow fuse as an alternative. It needs to be slow blow due to the high inrush current peak when the detector is first turned on.

A thermal switch is not designed for overcurrent protection. If it has been used for that purpose then the person who designed and installed it does not understand how a thermal switch works. They would be better off using a PTC or something like that for overcurrent protection

Might not be what it was intended for, but that is how it works!
Perhaps talk to Minelab about it, cause that was part of the original sd2000 battery/patch lead setup. There would be a reason that that part was used, we just have to figure out why.

 

[cantfind46]

I did hear the clicking noise you mentioned at one stage and changed the wiring and it did dissappear. Still no luck in finding the part though.

 

[AngerManagement]

I did hear the clicking noise you mentioned at one stage and changed the wiring and it did dissappear. Still no luck in finding the part though.

Available in Australia - Most QUALITY Battery places have them as they are were standard item BUT they are basically OBSOLETE as there are 101 other replacements that do the job better .

17 in front is for round leads - old stock and not readily available

7 in front is for flat leads - a few around

But I would not use them and go for a later equivalent.

Here is a typical supplier for the 7AM203A5 ...

http://www.master-instruments.com.au/products/58133/ER7AM203A5.html

 

[Nightmare]

Hate to reopen an old Thread,

I am running an SD2000 upgraded from a Xterra 705, and keep hearing about this Booster for the Audio? I am curious to what it is and whether it increases volume *my ear are already being blown to bits by led shot and old nails* or if it just makes the faint targets louder?.

Any help is appreciated.