Is there a mechanic in the house ???

[B5MECH]

"""He would also like to buy old Ford Gearboxes & Diff's, 9"'s, top loaders etc if anyone has any around thumbsup""""

Cant help mate , i was a holden man :Y: i still have some fine splined axles and bits and peices but i dont like parting with the memories unless its for a good cause and a quick squirt down the tarmac :lol:

I'm sure he'd like some Holden gearboxes aussie 4's and salisbury parts but he's a magic 9" builder so is always chasing 9" and top loader gears and parts
If you want to ring him for a quote PM me and I'll give you a name to drop for a discount :Y:

 

[B5MECH]

I am not sure how many mechinics we have on the forum ? I hope a few and this may become a helpful thread.

I can solve alot of mechinal and engineering problems but at the moment i need a diff expert to solve a puzzle for me ,
i have a intermittent howling in my rear end from my troubleshooting i believe its the pinion bearing as thats the only area with heat . I mate of mine recons i can replace the bearing without stripping the diff as it comes in from the front or tail shaft end , but i am not convinced as there would be nothing to keep the shaft and bearing from moving foward apart from the tail shaft .

So do we have some helpful mechinics onboard the forum ?

Just to make sure AF you sure your not mistaken it for a bad out of round Tyre or a wheel bearing noise transferring through?

To be sure jack it up on four stands supported close as possible to the ball joints to compress the suspension weight
Make sure it's solid and drive it through the gears....listen at each wheel for bearing noise
If the pinion bearing is bad you'll hear it under the car, if it's minor there won't be enough load to hear it but you'll be able to cancel out the possibility of wheel bearings
Being a 4By it'll want to move around a bit so solid stand points are a must :Y:
Would want you to find out after rebuilding the center a wheel bearing is gone or a tyre is toast once it heats up

 

[aussiefarmer]

Yeah i was blamming a tyre for starters then i noticed it was happening when i finished a climb and the momentum changed from lugging to coasting without changing the throttle , i felt the inner rims , the backing plates and back of diff housing and all were at natural temp , then felt the housing aruond the pinion shaft and it was warm enough to be uncomfortable .

 

[B5MECH]

Yeah i was blamming a tyre for starters then i noticed it was happening when i finished a climb and the momentum changed from lugging to coasting without changing the throttle , i felt the inner rims , the backing plates and back of diff housing and all were at natural temp , then felt the housing aruond the pinion shaft and it was warm enough to be uncomfortable .

Ahh.... so I'd call the noise humming on deceleration, sounds like pinion bearings....
there would be a possibility the yoke has come loose?.... could create a bearing noise from the bearings loosing preload
a werrring noise will more point to gear wear with backlash
Becareful tightening the yoke if so...can check for a torque spec if needed :Y:
The other odd thing ..has it got a metal cone covering the seal? check it's not stuck with dirt/rocks

 

[aussiefarmer]

Hmmm i might drop the tailshaft and keep trying the tension wrench until it stops popping the button and see if a bees dics tension cures it, as its not deafening or constant but the warmth suggests its cactus .
If the yoke nut moves without a rattlegun i could get lucky , but Murphys law would say not. :/

 

[RM Outback]

Looks like you found a mechanic in the house AF :Y:. B5MECH your a legend with parting mechanical knowledge :Y: I followed your comments with Balmaine Bob's post. Gotta love this forum :Y:.

AF great thread, hope it continues :Y:.

 

[aussiefarmer]

Yeah i am sure others would like some insight or even a second opinion on their mechanical brainstrainers and they should feel free to add to this thread:Y:

Sharings caring and together our knowledge covers alot of proffessions :Y:

 

[B5MECH]

Hmmm i might drop the tailshaft and keep trying the tension wrench until it stops popping the button and see if a bees dics tension cures it, as its not deafening or constant but the warmth suggests its cactus .
If the yoke nut moves without a rattlegun i could get lucky , but Murphys law would say not. :/

Dam I thought my service book would have it but it's the one that's missing :/ had a quick look around and have a read :lol: :lol: :N:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/126594-torque-spec-v6-pinion-nut.html
Be careful as even the right spec is incorrect to crack the nut as it would be factory loctite, if you can see a ring of rust between the nut and yoke, light and magnifying glass would indicate it backed off a little but I'd still put a tiny bit of tension on it too see
Not sure if the 200ft on the crush sleeve is right but could be...but that is a once use only part so it's a yoke on...... stay on
I'd think the 100-120ftp region would crack it but only tighten it if it wants to if you know what I mean :lol: :lol: :Y: 200ftp is to crush the collar to begin with.....1/24 of a turn unless it wants to go more
Gee they get into a fight over it hey :lol: :lol:
Thanks RM :Y:

 

[aussiefarmer]

Just an update i removed the diff center and found little chunks of the LSD clutches , i got lucky and found a fully reco diff center so should have it back on the road again tomorrow :Y:

 

[B5MECH]

Just an update i removed the diff center and found little chunks of the LSD clutches , i got lucky and found a fully reco diff center so should have it back on the road again tomorrow :Y:

:Y: Make sure you use the best oil you can AF....being an LSD I'd recommend a diff additive to help protect the clutches
I buy mine through FORD Can't remember it's real name but it is an LSD friction modifier additive :Y:
Helps stop sticky chattery clutches :Y:

 

[aussiefarmer]

Is penrite any good ? , i will run it for 500 ks then drop it out incase theres any loose metal i missed then refill it , any suggestions its specs are 80/90 lsd.

 

[B5MECH]

Is penrite any good ? , i will run it for 500 ks then drop it out incase theres any loose metal i missed then refill it , any suggestions its specs are 80/90 lsd.

Penrite has a top name :Y: they have a modifying additive as well
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/pa...o-lsaddc15-penrite-oil-limslip-additive-150ml
I'd stick to the 80/90 while it's fresh
I run 120w Shell LSD with Ford LSD modifier but that's a special coned 9" and the heavy weight helps with smashing gears :lol:

 

[the duck]

To me it sounds like crown wheel and pinion the pinion bearings may have worn, but you need to check the mesh of the 2 gears and adjust with shims the boot and toe
You can check this with bearing blue just smear it on the gears then rotate

 

[aussiefarmer]

All fixed heres my scrapnel :Y: one lsd clutch decided to go to pieces
Now i am happy because i am
[video=480,360]https://youtu.be/1TD_pSeNelU[/video]