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Yo TFK, send me a PM, i need the width & length of the area you have drilled out on your top box, get that to me me with your address and i"ll send you some punch plate that i have laying about, GT is pretty much on the dollar about those holes.
Simply measure the inside of the box within 1-2 mm, and i will put two folds in the plate so you can simply pop rivet it to the sides.
The length needs to be incluiding the hinge, plus 20-30mm for the upper section of where you have drilled out.
Get that all off to me and i knock it up and send it off ;)
 
Beagleboy said:
The sides on the hopper will need to be bit higher to put the spray bars on. You will get very wet shoveling in to it otherways. Is the height of the hopper adjustable? Good job TFK. I am sure you will catch some yellow with it. :)
Click to expand...
Ok thanks mate in the next couple weeks I will try and make the sides higher with some sheet metel lying around somewhere. Yeas the hight of the hopper is adjustable. All you have to do is undo the screw where those strips of metel move it up and down then put it back through the hole and bam it's set to the angle you want. Thanks
 
Goldtarget said:
Holy Aluminium Batman! I don't want to sound like the grumpy old know it all prospector mate, I love the fact you're having a go, but I reckon your going to find those drill holes are going to have real trouble with blocking up no matter what sort of material your running. It's a bit of an art trying to get the top classification set up right (heck I'm still designing and redesigning) but might I suggest grabbing some punch plate instead if your heading down that path. Uniformity will give you a better chance of getting the gold into the bottom box. My concern is those little holes will get dirt and rocks stuck in them and be super hard to get them out again. Once they are blocked the flow will head out the back of the top box along with the gold and overburden. Pre classification will help but the irregular size holes aren't going to do you any favours.
Click to expand...

Yea that's alright I'm always wanting to make this HB very good so any information is welcome. Thanks Goldtarget :)
 
dwt said:
Yo TFK, send me a PM, i need the width & length of the area you have drilled out on your top box, get that to me me with your address and i"ll send you some punch plate that i have laying about, GT is pretty much on the dollar about those holes.
Simply measure the inside of the box within 1-2 mm, and i will put two folds in the plate so you can simply pop rivet it to the sides.
The length needs to be incluiding the hinge, plus 20-30mm for the upper section of where you have drilled out.
Get that all off to me and i knock it up and send it off ;)
Click to expand...

Yeah thanks for that idea but I do t think I will be able to do that sorry. Could you please send me a pm of what punch plate looks like so I can see what it looks like. Thanks :)
 
TheFossickingKid said:
dwt said:
Yo TFK, send me a PM, i need the width & length of the area you have drilled out on your top box, get that to me me with your address and i"ll send you some punch plate that i have laying about, GT is pretty much on the dollar about those holes.
Simply measure the inside of the box within 1-2 mm, and i will put two folds in the plate so you can simply pop rivet it to the sides.
The length needs to be incluiding the hinge, plus 20-30mm for the upper section of where you have drilled out.
Get that all off to me and i knock it up and send it off ;)
Click to expand...

Yeah thanks for that idea but I do t think I will be able to do that sorry. Could you please send me a pm of what punch plate looks like so I can see what it looks like. Thanks :)
Click to expand...

Understood mate no worries, sorry, i meant PO Box, it also goes by the name "perforated sheet", some metal dealers use this definition instead of punch plate, so if you ask for punch plate and they look at you wierd, try calling it perforated sheet, and of course vice versa, good luck.
I'll nick out the shed and post up a pic :D
 
here you go mate, punch plate or perforated sheet

1413282338_trailer_012-optimized.jpg
 
give it a run and see how it goes , catch what comes off the end to see if you are losing gold , watch to see if you are getting wash flow off the back rather then falling through your classifier, see if you are getting enough flow to wash the tailings out without washing the gold out
 
That Rato pump appears to be the same as Thornado, genquip and a number of others & it should work well for that hibanker. there all from the same factory- rebadged.
I had a genquip which was reliable, used a bit of oil initially, 3 kg heavier than Honda and makes more noise. You need to fill the oil on delivery, change regularly and get a replacement plug. Replacing mine due to it being lost of the trailer.

If you buy from Gavin (Rato) , I suggest you look at the package he has as it is cheaper than buying individual bits.
 
TheFossickingKid said:
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/3346/1414042644_image.jpg

Could I put the piping where the black spots are? Would it be better then the piping across the top?
Click to expand...
Howdy TFK, I'm probably a bit late on this one but if you cut the piping in just above where you have drilled your holes, and fire the water back up towards the top of the box that will give you some extra agitation, and assist in breaking down the dirt.
Any update pics mate? :)
 
Gold will not be able to escape the beast, you have built a true gold trap mate. The modifications u do now are just peripheral!
 

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