Diesel Chip Modification

[Mr Magoo]

Ouch 22k, even 8k is a hard nut to swallow,

In theory it should be ok to do this stuff like we did with the older cars in the 60's 70's and 80's but these newer models have such fine tolerance's the slightest thing and the warning lights on the dash come on, And DPF's are the curse of the modern motorist with a price tag to match, I am seriously thinking of buying an older car just to get away from all the issues of modern cars. Since last Christmas you would not believe the problems my brother has had, I wouldn't mind but his car is immaculate and only a few years old, and now not only has he still got to get the Wheel alignment issue sorted, it has a twin plate clutch setup that is messing around but you can't replace the clutch without replacing the flywheel and that's about 3K, So far he has spent every spare penny he has earned this year on it and he still has these 2 things to do. ]

Yep! Catalytic converter in the exhaust manifold broke up under the extra heat load and was sucked into the engine. Tata motor, ta ta $8K. These engines were already failing under normal conditions.

Older cars are a lot more forgiving, nowadays, not so much so. Those DMF are a pain. I have done quite a few conversions to solid mass - not been comfortable about it and I probably would't do it to a European car. The laws in Australia need to be changed regarding right to repair. VW (Bora?)are now making crank seals that require a jig to fit. No jig and the car will not start. The seal contains the tone wheel for the crank sensor. VW do not and will not sell that tool. One has to find a tool supplier who has that tool. It won't be Repco.

Can't believe the price these chips go for. Probably made for about $5. The 'industrial grade chip' would be about $1, programmed. Research, a couple of days. But 'hey' supply and demand.
I just don't know how they get around the legal side. :/

 

[Ridge Runner]

Yep! Catalytic converter in the exhaust manifold broke up under the extra heat load and was sucked into the engine. Tata motor, ta ta $8K. These engines were already failing under normal conditions.

Older cars are a lot more forgiving, nowadays, not so much so. Those DMF are a pain. I have done quite a few conversions to solid mass - not been comfortable about it and I probably would't do it to a European car. The laws in Australia need to be changed regarding right to repair. VW (Bora?)are now making crank seals that require a jig to fit. No jig and the car will not start. The seal contains the tone wheel for the crank sensor. VW do not and will not sell that tool. One has to find a tool supplier who has that tool. It won't be Repco.

Can't believe the price these chips go for. Probably made for about $5. The 'industrial grade chip' would be about $1, programmed. Research, a couple of days. But 'hey' supply and demand.
I just don't know how they get around the legal side. :/

Yeah my brother hit another brick wall with his VW Touran 1.9 or 2.0 TDI, On the left side of the head he had another oil leak after he got the rocker cover fixed and it turned out to be there is a thing that looks like a big round plug and it had oil all around it turns out there is a rubber O ring on the back of it that seals where the injector loom goes in to the head and the loom sits under the rocker cover, ya can't buy the O ring but you have to buy the complete loom which is about 300 buck then you have to remove the rocker cover that he just got sealed up at VW and then put it all back together, and the week before that the main 3" pipe that comes from the Air box to the Turbo got a small split in it so that had to be done but they want a fortune for that too, Apparently it is a very common problem with the VW TDI 1.9/2.0 engines and Oil collects in that pipe from the Air box to the Turbo so you need to take it off and clean it every couple of months or so or the car starts running rough as it does with a split in the hose from the Air Box. Plus a heap more things, It's a nice car but it is a money pit.

 

[shakergt]

If you do remap keep the original settings. That way if anything does go wrong you can reset. As for chips not being good for diesels I would have to disagree. My prado has 330000 km with a chip and still going strong. If it's done right it should be ok.

 

[mardymoose]

I put an EVC idrive on my 2013 great wall diesel about 6 months ago.
It made a huge difference and was only $300.
Dont know what it will be like in the long run

 

[Digginholes]

I'll clarify a few things with my car. When I bought it I had Mazda do an upgrade of the suspension through Ironman. I then had an alloy canopy fitted which once it was kitted out the way I wanted, added a bit of weight. Guessing 450 kg's. The car has plenty of power as is and mostly I'm happy with it. The problem I have with it is when you are taking off from a standing start there is quite a bit of lag between when you put your foot down to when something actually happens. If you try to stick it into it from a standing start nothing happens for a couple of seconds then it will throw everything off the dash onto your lap . I had a 3inch exhaust fitted which I was assured would make a difference but there is nothing noticeable. I had a look at a device from "chipmydiesel.com.au" last night, it's a plug and play, which had a lot of good reviews for power increase and fuel economy which is what I would like, but I will keep researching as well. I'm not a rev head but I do like my vehicles to perform properly. I have spoken to a number of BT50 owners as well as a mechanic or two and most say that the lag is the biggest drawback of the car. I am a fan of Mazda, I've had 5 including my wife's car. Overall I am pleased with the car, I just want to sort out a few niggles I have with it. I hope this is a bit clearer on what I want to achieve. I don't want to start any bickering over " mines bigger than yours" . Thanks again Rick

Hey mate also might be worth checking out the info on the ford ranger regarding this as Im pretty sure Mazda use the ford engine, in fact Id bet my left nut on it

 

[grubstake]

I put an EVC idrive on my 2013 great wall diesel about 6 months ago.
It made a huge difference and was only $300.
Dont know what it will be like in the long run

There's two phrases that are rarely heard together! Good luck.

 

[OzzieAu]

Mr Magoo......youve done it again,
How can something that breaks up in the exhaust stream possibly get sucked into the engine!... impossible.

 

[WhiteyCQ]

I dont have a chip or remapping but I have a throttle control on both my diesel cars (Toyota Hilux/Dualcab Landcruiser). It just takes the lag out of the throttle making it more responsive. As far as emissions go, in Japan they have to replace everything every 20,000km. Because thats when the emission technology starts to fail as in emission output. I had a couple mates, one with a hilux, the other a dualcab. They diesel chipped there cars, then within 100km while towing boats both their clutches went.

 

[Mr Magoo]

Mr Magoo......youve done it again,
How can something that breaks up in the exhaust stream possibly get sucked into the engine!... impossible.

Absolutely true. Valve overlap is the cause of the sucking. Quite a significant suck to it as well. You can feel the result of it at the tail pipe - the bit between the puffs.

 

[jethro]

Well there seems to be a lot of blanket opinions from the ill informed and those who should/do know better. All I can add to the argument is that all engines are different and thus some will happily make more power and handle the extra heat created when modified either by changing the parameters of the ECM via a chip or fitting aftermarket exhausts or turbos etc. Other engines will make little extra usable power and create heat or emissions that will cause damage in the medium to long term. What that damage will be is anyones guess until a few units have failed and pattern starts to appear. What I can tell you from first hand experience is that the 3.2lt 5 cylinder used in the ranger / Bt50 is prone to injector / engine failure if the engine is tampered with. We currently have one in our workshop with about 200k on the clock that has been well tampered with big exhaust, big tyres, big loads, remapped ecm, This ranger has run completely out of compression on number five. and is blowing oil out of orifices that oil shouldnt come out of. So another motor was sourced and fitted. We havent lifted the head of the old one as yet as the outcome for the customer would still be the same, Ie new motor and then with the added cost of labour to pull the head. Diagnosis was done by compression test, injector test, ( they failed ) and inspection camera through injector holes. So if you want to launch hard off the line hold brake on and throttle up till the engine starts making some boost then launch into it. :argh: for what its worth you may need to get your fuel rail pressure checked against throttle input and suction control valve values. Take it to someone who specializes in common rail diesels.

 

[Ridge Runner]

Well there seems to be a lot of blanket opinions from the ill informed and those who should/do know better. All I can add to the argument is that all engines are different and thus some will happily make more power and handle the extra heat created when modified either by changing the parameters of the ECM via a chip or fitting aftermarket exhausts or turbos etc. Other engines will make little extra usable power and create heat or emissions that will cause damage in the medium to long term. What that damage will be is anyones guess until a few units have failed and pattern starts to appear. What I can tell you from first hand experience is that the 3.2lt 5 cylinder used in the ranger / Bt50 is prone to injector / engine failure if the engine is tampered with. We currently have one in our workshop with about 200k on the clock that has been well tampered with big exhaust, big tyres, big loads, remapped ecm, This ranger has run completely out of compression on number five. and is blowing oil out of orifices that oil shouldnt come out of. So another motor was sourced and fitted. We havent lifted the head of the old one as yet as the outcome for the customer would still be the same, Ie new motor and then with the added cost of labour to pull the head. Diagnosis was done by compression test, injector test, ( they failed ) and inspection camera through injector holes. So if you want to launch hard off the line hold brake on and throttle up till the engine starts making some boost then launch into it. :argh: for what its worth you may need to get your fuel rail pressure checked against throttle input and suction control valve values. Take it to someone who specializes in common rail diesels.

Ouch that's not going to be cheap, 8.(

Isn't the BT50 the same as the ford ranger I posted in that video ? meaning who makes them ford or mazda ?

 

[Mr Magoo]

All I can add to the argument is that all engines are different and thus some will happily make more power and handle the extra heat created when modified either by changing the parameters of the ECM via a chip or fitting aftermarket exhausts or turbos etc. Other engines will make little extra usable power and create heat or emissions that will cause damage in the medium to long term. What that damage will be is anyones guess until a few units have failed and pattern starts to appear.

:Y: :Y: Glad someone else said it. Exactly why I don't do it and it's something I could do tomorrow. But I have no wish to be sued for any resulting damage. If it did occur. Built and programmed other emulators before, Ford smart lock start enable and DPF pressure sensor. Out there and working. Which is why I think the price on that power chip is insane.
On a Defender I increased boost and fueling to what was commonly accepted safe level. EGT pre turbo peaked at 740*C. That turbo is probably going to have a shortened life. Won't be today or tomorrow but the turbine blades will be living on the edge at full tilt.

 

[Mr Magoo]

Isn't the BT50 the same as the ford ranger I posted in that video ? meaning who makes them ford or mazda ?

I think you're right. :/
Another close pair is, I think (can't find my notes), Navara and Pajero. Although not identical. As in they will do the opposite of each other but in the same pattern and I believe will run each others injectors.
The big difference though is in the software. Amount of pre injections for example is one off the top of my head. So the same may go for the BT50 and the Ranger or they may run the same software.

 

[Ded Driver]

sighhhhhh
Ive built, rebuilt, modified & busted more old school petrol burning Ford, Holden & Valiant V8's & 6's in my life than I can remember, & I'm now heading into uncharted territory. Next year I will be buying a new diesel 4WD, & I know I'm going to cry forever over the lack of horsepower.
All my skin, blood, sweat & tears lost will be of no use to me any more 8.(
.
.
.
.
I need to be frozen & come back in a few decades when we have all electric 4WD's with a 100kW motor on each wheel layful:

 

[Ridge Runner]

So this is really like walking on egg shells, you have to tread very carefully. I miss the days when we could pop the hood and clank the spanners all day long, I still have a brand new Snap On Timing Light and the Snap On feeler and wire gauge sets and I have a German vacuum Carby balancer and a Vacuum gauge, Only ever used them Once, Cost me an arm and a leg when I first came here but over here they got an early start on this hi tech BS before we did back in Aus.

 

[Magilla]

sighhhhhh
Ive built, rebuilt, modified & busted more old school petrol burning Ford, Holden & Valiant V8's & 6's in my life than I can remember, & I'm now heading into uncharted territory. Next year I will be buying a new diesel 4WD, & I know I'm going to cry forever over the lack of horsepower.
All my skin, blood, sweat & tears lost will be of no use to me any more 8.(
.
.
.
.
I need to be frozen & come back in a few decades when we have all electric 4WD's with a 100kW motor on each wheel layful:

If you go for a Cruiser you won't be crying over lack of horsepower, or you could go for the new 4x4 Lambo Urus, 478kw and 0 to 100kph in 3.6 seconds. Even our Isuzu Mux is quicker than my old V8 Holden.

 

[Ded Driver]

If you go for a Cruiser you won't be crying over lack of horsepower, or you could go for the new 4x4 Lambo Urus, 478kw and 0 to 100kph in 3.6 seconds. Even our Isuzu Mux is quicker than my old V8 Holden.

well, you're almost but not quiet right Magilla. I would be crying. I will start here by pointing out that I do up to 60,000km/yr, 30,000 minimum.
All LandCruisers are tough but they have their issues, & are generally overpriced. I always take up to a year to evaluate my next vehicle, & this time has been 18 months.
I like the 79 series but it has only just over 150kW, lots of torque from low rpm, but its no powerhouse. Highway touring is not its strong point (among other mechanical issues).
I know when I need torque, & I know when I need horsepower.
The 200 series has 200kW in the twin turbo diesel V8, mountains of torque from around 1600 rpm & is good for touring as well as capable off-road, but its a lumbering hulk & BLOODY EXPENSIVE ... my sister has 1, mainly for pulling a horse float) ... not really what im after.
My brother bought a new Colorado LTZ a year ago. Nice 4wd, but I hate the electronic gimics in it, & its underpowered (in kW)
Ford Ranger has a bit more power, but built like a piece of oop: ... If you get the chance have a look at the front top swing arms!
The Lambo Urus would be nice, If I won lotto :money: :money: :money: :money: :money:
At this point Im considering a VW Amarok. The manual gearbox comes back early next year. These have 163 - 190kW depending on spec, so a bit of tweaking can suck 200 odd kW out of them. See how long it takes me to wear one out

 

[Magilla]

If you go for a Cruiser you won't be crying over lack of horsepower, or you could go for the new 4x4 Lambo Urus, 478kw and 0 to 100kph in 3.6 seconds. Even our Isuzu Mux is quicker than my old V8 Holden.

well, you're almost but not quiet right Magilla. I would be crying. I will start here by pointing out that I do up to 60,000km/yr, 30,000 minimum.
All LandCruisers are tough but they have their issues, & are generally overpriced. I always take up to a year to evaluate my next vehicle, & this time has been 18 months.
I like the 79 series but it has only just over 150kW, lots of torque from low rpm, but its no powerhouse. Highway touring is not its strong point (among other mechanical issues).
I know when I need torque, & I know when I need horsepower.
The 200 series has 200kW in the twin turbo diesel V8, mountains of torque from around 1600 rpm & is good for touring as well as capable off-road, but its a lumbering hulk & BLOODY EXPENSIVE ... my sister has 1, mainly for pulling a horse float) ... not really what im after.
My brother bought a new Colorado LTZ a year ago. Nice 4wd, but I hate the electronic gimics in it, & its underpowered (in kW)
Ford Ranger has a bit more power, but built like a piece of oop: ... If you get the chance have a look at the front top swing arms!
The Lambo Urus would be nice, If I won lotto :money: :money: :money: :money: :money:
At this point Im considering a VW Amarok. The manual gearbox comes back early next year. These have 163 - 190kW depending on spec, so a bit of tweaking can suck 200 odd kW out of them. See how long it takes me to wear one out

Do some research on the Amarok mate, many seem to have issues once they get a few miles on them.