Just keep it simple mate.
madtuna said:Yep that's what I want Jaros.
I've always had solar but basic, just a panel through a regulator to a battery to my fridge.
I'm wanting to mount permanent panels on top of the Perenties rack and a duel battery set up, plus mount panels onto my van roof.
Redfin said:madtuna said:Yep that's what I want Jaros.
I've always had solar but basic, just a panel through a regulator to a battery to my fridge.
I'm wanting to mount permanent panels on top of the Perenties rack and a duel battery set up, plus mount panels onto my van roof.
Exactly.
I have an Evakool 47l fiberglass fridge in the back of the Prado connected to the 2nd battery.
100w panel on the roofrack going to a regulator which is also connected to the battery.
The fridge has been on 24/7 for about 4 years, not a problem.
Beer is always cold wherever I am.
diggit said:Where are you based Redfin? Do you reckon such a system would work on coastal Victoria,? Lots of cloudy days lol
madtuna said:I think I have a man crush
projecta idc25 feeding 2nd battery from main, solar input to idc, panel on roof , drink cold beer erfect:madtuna said:Yep that's what I want Jaros.
I've always had solar but basic, just a panel through a regulator to a battery to my fridge.
I'm wanting to mount permanent panels on top of the Perenties rack and a duel battery set up, plus mount panels onto my van roof.
I want simple. I don't want to need to have this meter and that meter and a meter to monitor those meters and half a dozen Iphone apps to run it all.
I just want to know my battery is charging when I'm driving and my solar panels are charging it when I'm not.
Ridge Runner said:After messing with all these batteries and testing them out with a meter I bought some things did not make sense, Anyways I did some research and found out that some battery companies tried to claim these meters are inaccurate rah rah rah etc, But after much digging it turns out the meters are correct and the fact is that some battery compannies don't do a cca test on a lot batteries due to the cost of testing so they put the blame on the meters "As In" being in accurate when the fact is because of they cut corners a lot of their batteries are sold with higher than quoted ratings and just as many are sold that are well below the rating on the stickers, These batteries will come good to within the quote specs but they have to be primed much like Cell phones and the old NiCd's had to be, and it can take up to 50 to 100 cycles before they come good,
My argument was If such a meter was out on one battery then it would be out on them all and One battery company tried to say that these meters are only wrong on new batteries which is impossible it's either right or wrong on all batteries, Putting this theory to the test I found out that these meters are Correct to within 0.01 of a volt etc and the only reason they got a wrong reading on new batteries is because the lack of QC that the battery companies let slip where their batteries are not cycled to a certain standard in order to match the spec printed on the labels from the factory,
With a bit more digging I found my self at the Battery University and all this was confirmed regarding battery companies lack of testing due to trying to save money along with the info about having to cycle new lead Acid Batteries this problem effects Deep cycle batteries the most and unless a battery has been cycled properly then there is a 50% +/- chance that you get a crook one unless you cycle it your self.
hope that helps.
J.
ctxkid said:Ridge Runner said:After messing with all these batteries and testing them out with a meter I bought some things did not make sense, Anyways I did some research and found out that some battery companies tried to claim these meters are inaccurate rah rah rah etc, But after much digging it turns out the meters are correct and the fact is that some battery compannies don't do a cca test on a lot batteries due to the cost of testing so they put the blame on the meters "As In" being in accurate when the fact is because of they cut corners a lot of their batteries are sold with higher than quoted ratings and just as many are sold that are well below the rating on the stickers, These batteries will come good to within the quote specs but they have to be primed much like Cell phones and the old NiCd's had to be, and it can take up to 50 to 100 cycles before they come good,
My argument was If such a meter was out on one battery then it would be out on them all and One battery company tried to say that these meters are only wrong on new batteries which is impossible it's either right or wrong on all batteries, Putting this theory to the test I found out that these meters are Correct to within 0.01 of a volt etc and the only reason they got a wrong reading on new batteries is because the lack of QC that the battery companies let slip where their batteries are not cycled to a certain standard in order to match the spec printed on the labels from the factory,
With a bit more digging I found my self at the Battery University and all this was confirmed regarding battery companies lack of testing due to trying to save money along with the info about having to cycle new lead Acid Batteries this problem effects Deep cycle batteries the most and unless a battery has been cycled properly then there is a 50% +/- chance that you get a crook one unless you cycle it your self.
hope that helps.
J.
sounds as though you were sitting in on the conversation i had with my delkor rep the other day
madtuna said:I really have to stop reading these threads.
I'm setting up a duel battery and solar system but these threads often just end up confusing me more.
Jaros said:Just keep it simple mate.
I bought a kickass battery box that has a regulator and 20 amp charger thingy. If you can go to Aussie direct and have a look at what they offer. There is a number of videos that covers a lot of different scenarios. You could prob adjust their stuff to suit your needs. I have a late model Mazda so I needed the smart charger but Im sure therell be something to suit you. Ive had mine in for 2 years and it has performed well with a 120 watt permenate panel on the roof. Hope its helpful. Cheers Rickmadtuna said:Yep that's what I want Jaros.
I've always had solar but basic, just a panel through a regulator to a battery to my fridge.
I'm wanting to mount permanent panels on top of the Perenties rack and a duel battery set up, plus mount panels onto my van roof.
I want simple. I don't want to need to have this meter and that meter and a meter to monitor those meters and half a dozen Iphone apps to run it all.
I just want to know my battery is charging when I'm driving and my solar panels are charging it when I'm not.
No it cannot , but it goes to sleep when not connectedDed Driver said:Nice. Can the BT be turned off, & any idea how much mA or mWHr it draws?
Looks nifty having that function tho'
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