broken battery plates drama

[Ded Driver]

Just got back from a 1 week trip to Kalgoorlie for a beer (& a bit of detecting, but unfortunately no gold, so more beer fixed that)
The last ~300km of highway out to Kal has become very rough (wasn't too good back at Easter 2018) mainly due I think to the volume of roadtrains on it (now corrugated bitumen) & the continuous shaking first up snapped my heavy duty fibreglass UHF aerial. Its had a rough life over the last 4 years on gravel roads so I wasn't too surprised by that.
Day 1 in Kal the Pajero stayed in town as I travelled with others. That night tho the electrics just cut off momentarily. key off, back on, & all was good. Next morning tho it had enough power to light up but wouldn't turn over. Measured just over 10V. A jump start (then measured 13.8V so the alternator appeared ok) & off we went to the Auto Shop to get a jump pack as a backup & intent to visit an auto'lecky for a check over. In the carpark I tried to restart & it was same as earlier, so I figured a new battery was in order rather than a jump pack (the old one was 3yrs old anyway). I have found the 'All-Rounder' a good battery, but would appear they may be susceptible to harsh roads.
The new battery is a Century 810CCA Ultra Hi-Performance 4WD with 'plate-lock' ... will see how that goes
The moral of the story is, individual plates can break off the internal busbar & drop a couple of cells, thus lowering the output voltage, which is what appears to have happened to mine, so lend a thought to your battery when travelling rough roads!

 

[mudgee hunter]

They the ones with a membranes between the cells?
Just bought one yesterday myself

 

[ctxkid]

just remember that they ARE NOT deep cycle :Y:

 

[Sweeper]

May be time for me to buy a battery clamp I think :8

 

[Ded Driver]

May be time for me to buy a battery clamp I think :8

ummm yeah Sweeper, a clamp is necessary (& legally required)

 

[Ded Driver]

just remember that they ARE NOT deep cycle :Y:

yep im well aware of that CTXKID. not sure which battery you are referring to, but the All-Rounder does reasonably well in double duty for light/moderate deep cycle duty, but the Century is def not a deep cycle. My dual battery system is under way. I have been researching multi-stage DC-DC Chargers with Solar input. I have previously had a problem with space to fit a dual battery due to LPG tanks under the floor in the rear of the Pajero. The LPG system is now gone & wiring is under way ... when I stay home long enough to work on it

 

[Ded Driver]

They the ones with a membranes between the cells?
Just bought one yesterday myself

Mudgee Hunter, which battery are you talking about?
I haven't seen or heard reference to 'membranes between the cells' .. The Century just says it has 'plate lock technology'

 

[Goldchaser1]

If ya need batteries in Kal also go to bitz batteries just off the highway near the pool shop in west Kal,usually much cheaper then in town,bit of bad luck DD......

 

[Ded Driver]

If ya need batteries in Kal also go to bitz batteries just off the highway near the pool shop in west Kal,usually much cheaper then in town,bit of bad luck DD......

Thanks for the tip GC1, I will keep that in mind for future trips, & family/friends that may venture that way. The battery was easily solved, but threading a new UHF aerial thru the firewall was a bit of a headf....
Will try to meet n greet you 1day when Im out there. This trip turned out a bit chaotic & busy, & way too short!. Would have liked a month but work rules hey.

 

[LONEWOLF]

Use your old UHF coax and split the new coax on the end and use it as a pull through... Pajero's are known for lack of access to the cabin from the engine bay... I just followed the factory wires from inside above the computer, through to the guard then back through to the engine bay... A real pain... Make sure you seal all entries through the Guard and fire wall... Don't want water dripping on to the Computer that's for sure....

As for Century Batteries. Keep your recept.. And only use Distilled water if they need a top-up... I use the sealed 4x4 type anyhow.....I only get 2.5 yrs out of them and as usual they only have a 2yr warranty... Gone through 3 in 5 yrs, but still value for $$... I don't have a deep cycle for my 2nd Battery as I find my needs don't = the $$ for them....

LW.....

 

[Ded Driver]

Use your old UHF coax and split the new coax on the end and use it as a pull through... Pajero's are known for lack of access to the cabin from the engine bay... I just followed the factory wires from inside above the computer, through to the guard then back through to the engine bay... A real pain... Make sure you seal all entries through the Guard and fire wall... Don't want water dripping on to the Computer that's for sure....

As for Century Batteries. Keep your recept.. And only use Distilled water if they need a top-up... I use the sealed 4x4 type anyhow.....I only get 2.5 yrs out of them and as usual they only have a 2yr warranty... Gone through 3 in 5 yrs, but still value for $$... I don't have a deep cycle for my 2nd Battery as I find my needs don't = the $$ for them....

LW.....

Good advice LW, tho not sure about "split the new coax on the end"!? Did you intend to say split the OLD coax?
I bought a new aerial in Kal & installed that evening. It took about 30mins to get the cable thru the firewall. I did tape it to the old cable as a pull-thru but the tape kept snagging as the (factory) grommet for the wiring harness that I was pulling thru was very tight with no space left. I eventually got it through by poking a Philips screwdriver thru & carefully pushing that back with the end of the new cable.
The new battery is a sealed 4x4 type. $275 shelf price at SuperCheap Auto in Kal but on special I think I paid $223. I usually get 2.5-3yrs out of most brands anyway.
The All-Rounder that broke was still coming up in good health with full capacity (at 3yo) on my fancy battery tester so would of been interesting to see if it continued to take & hold charge out to 4 years.
Are there any possible contributing factors to you only getting 2.5yrs out of a Century battery? Heat, vibration, bad regulator etc?
I & others I know have had Century batteries before with over 3years service! I hope they haven't lowered their quality

 

[Goldchaser1]

If ya need batteries in Kal also go to bitz batteries just off the highway near the pool shop in west Kal,usually much cheaper then in town,bit of bad luck DD......

Thanks for the tip GC1, I will keep that in mind for future trips, & family/friends that may venture that way. The battery was easily solved, but threading a new UHF aerial thru the firewall was a bit of a headf....
Will try to meet n greet you 1day when Im out there. This trip turned out a bit chaotic & busy, & way too short!. Would have liked a month but work rules hey.

Yeah a week can be a struggle with getting time on the ground with traveling or any hick ups DD,give us a yell if ya up here usually about somewhere.....

 

[LONEWOLF]

Old to new or new to old just use the old one to pull the new one through... Anyhow you got it done.... :Y:

In my set-up, the Starting battery IS close to the engine... so heat is a factor... I have some quality heat shield around it but most petrol pajero's run hot under the bonnet anyhow... I also do a lot of travel on corrugated dirt roads... I have had it checked by an auto sparky and he says all is Ok Regulator and Alternator wise.... Guess its just 'Bad Luck'.. I use them till they start to show signs of them failing, then I replace them. and use the old ones for other things till they Die... I also get good $$ for them at a scrap yard... BUT yes they have lowered their Quality as I was told by a rep after I thought I had a warranty claim on a battery 6 months ago... That being said, I will still buy them ... as I can get them at close to 35% off RRP... There IS better quality out there but my $$ don't go that far to buy them....

LW.....

 

[Ded Driver]

I know what you mean LW. I have a set of headers on my 3.5L Paj. On the first set I tried the impregnated f/glass heat wrap. That promptly cooked the headers & they warped, cracked & broke. Throwaway job. I now have a set of Wildcat S/S pipes (with no wrap) & I made aluminium heat shields but need to do a bit more to get the heat out. Contemplating putting a small bonnet scoop on either side to push hot air down & out underneath.

 

[LONEWOLF]

Same here SS Wildcat Headers and SS exhaust. :Y: Previous owner did the same as you with the fibreglass wrap idea and had the same outcome, so he went SS . Hard to put some sort of scoop on as you don't want water getting in by rain or creek crossings... Do you run the bash plates underneath as these can also keep the heat in... I only run mine if I plan to go into rocky areas... Home made bash plates also don't help and have also be known to hold the heat in... I made some with little scoops facing the other way and that made a slight difference..... Even tried the little scoops that fit under the bonnet to direct air further back on the motor... Fitted to mid 90's Diesel Pajero's, didn't make much difference tho.. ... So I just lift the bonnet now when I stop for awhile to let it cool down... :8

I suppose it's just something us Paj owners have to put up with... :Y: This site is a wealth of info on Pajeros if you don't know of it... :koala:

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/

LW....

 

[Ded Driver]

cheers LW. I do go to the Pajeroclub forum for some info.
The water in bonnet scoop is 1 issue im trying to figure out. Im thinking a plug for water crossings if I encounter any (we don't have many rivers here, & those we do are generally too deep, or have shallow floodway crossings). Im also forming a plan to put a thin filter in the back to catch rain & drain it to the sides. A small amount of vapour passing thru wont matter due to the heat keeping it vaporised.
I have a custom bash plate with larger holes, & generally seem to get enough air around the lower half of the engine, but im most concerned with the hot air that gets trapped up top & want to push it down. I usually pop the bonnet to the safety catch when its working hard & slow in sand dunes. This helps but isn't a highway solution.
On the exhaust issues, I kept a traditional steel exhaust as ive heard of a few guys cracking S/S pipes (&sometimes the headers too) when they hit cold water. This is usually only an issue when hitting shallow crossings that you know are good, but with no cool-down time as would have when walking a deeper crossing.

 

[mudgee hunter]

They the ones with a membranes between the cells?
Just bought one yesterday myself

Mudgee Hunter, which battery are you talking about?
I haven't seen or heard reference to 'membranes between the cells' .. The Century just says it has 'plate lock technology'

Yeah I was told they have like a fiberglass membrane between the cells. To aid in shock displacement.
The black version of the century's batteries are made for a lot of European cars with a lower profile.
best way to choose a battery for vehicle is measure your trays max widths and height clearance. This will allow you to get more cranking power. Very handy if you use a winch often, or running a diesel engine.

 

[Ded Driver]

I did some searching Mudgee Hunter. The info for the Century Overlander sounds to be mostly common to the Ultra Hi Performance battery I bought (they didn't have an Overlander in stock). I think this illustrates the glass mat you are talking about.
full webpage here;
https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/4x4-suv-batteries/overlander-4x4-difference
The comparison chart in the 2nd pic is informative to see the differences between the Overlander & the UHPerf.

 

[LONEWOLF]

When I do my '380' engine conversion, im looking at a new exhaust system and probably will use just SS headers and a steel exhaust pipe system.. as I do a lot of shallow water crossings and most of the time I have a bit of a cool down before I enter... We get a few idiots that will put rocks in the creeks to catch you out, so I always have a look first....
Interesting reading about the differences with the Batteries...

Let me know if you come up with something about the top cooling idea.. I was thinking about another hose off the Snorkel somewhere might work... :Y:

LW...

 

[Ded Driver]

Lone Wolf we are on much the same train of thought. Im currently running a 2002 NM SOHC engine in my '95 Paj along with breathing improvements it has a much better torque curve than the old DOHC (it was amusing how many people told me I wouldn't be able to get it to work with the old ECU, Sensors, plumbing etc ... but it does), & when I wear this one out I intend on putting a 3.8L in, possibly with 2 small turbos layful:
I too was wondering if its practical to duct snorkel air over the engine for this purpose, tho I would install a 2nd on the other side specifically for this purpose rather than taking away from the engine air feed.
As I am about to install a dual battery system, solar panel, & other bits, I will start a thread in the 'Campers, Vans & 4WD' section.