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- Thread starter Moneybox
- Start date
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Moneybox said:
So there a few reasons why most dryblowers fail(in my opinion)....the main one is the problem you have mentioned above. It's not just big lumps of dirt that will trap the dirt, a small bit of dirt attached to a small bit of gold will change the Specific Gravity of the bit your trying to capture and make it much harder to capture. The secret to dryblowing (again this is only my opinion) is to run the dirt through a scrubber and then present the dirt to your recovery decks.
- Joined
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- Reaction score
- 773
silver said:
Your hand drawn pic is similar to the setup I use Silver...your on the right track there mate.
Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
Goldtalk Leonora said:
Tony I can knock up a little trommel like that but I don't know yet if it's likely to pay for the extra process. I know there will be a percentage lost like that but it's another machine to build, load and maintain. I value your input because you are one of the few with experience in these things.
- Joined
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- 773
Hi Phil, Thank you....and it's only a bit of input...nothing more than that. If I was going to give advice I would say use exactly what you have and that will tell you exactly what you need and whether or not it's worth your time to do it. Personally, with a small dryblower, if you get onto the right ground then the extra % won't really matter to you as your hourly costs are low anyway. But as I said some time back....they are a work in progress!
Efficiency is the key.
Not volume.
What I see here is Moneybox has built a machine to suit his needs.
And done very, very well.
Teething issues, so what.
I salute you both and Thank You for giving us a very comprehensive overlay with the
whole project. :clap: :clap: :clap: :Y:
Not volume.
What I see here is Moneybox has built a machine to suit his needs.
And done very, very well.
Teething issues, so what.
I salute you both and Thank You for giving us a very comprehensive overlay with the
whole project. :clap: :clap: :clap: :Y:
MB,
If you ever venture into using a rotary here is a little advice for when setting up the machine.
When working in the then new Jennings Mining Mineral Sand Industry in the Geraldton wet/dry processing plant, the material was brought from Eneabba by rail.
Ilmenite, Rutile, Zircon and Monazite were extracted.
They used a rotary spinning on tyres at the mine site which were suffering blowouts on a regular basis. Also the horizontal buffer wheel up against one of the rims was continually chewing up bearings.
Was called in to try and solve the problem.
Used a theodolite and piano wire to install a fixed axial point.
Then adjusted the wheel supports, you could say a wheel alignment so the drum was tending to track upwards towards raised feed inlet, was now making only light contact with the buffer on the down side.
The original adjustments had all four wheels opposing each other causing the tyres to overheat and blowouts followed frequently.
The Michelin tyres now had extended life and production improved dramatically.
After the success with this operation, set up the same alignment principle with the three rotary kilns at the Geraldton site. Because the temperatures involved the kilns rotated on steel rollers but were suffering slightly from misalignment.
After completion you could say it was a "win win" situation both production and maintenance wise.
Mineral Sand production was a complicated process using Wilfley tables, magnetic, electrostatic and airtable extraction of product.
The Eastern States mineral sand industry was/is called beach mining, where as the Eneabba deposits are many kilometres inland from the Indian Ocean.
It was proven after establishing these deposits that they were once pushed ashore by wave action millions of years earlier when the WA coastline existed where Mineral sand Mining, towns & sheep/wheat farming coexist today.
If you ever venture into using a rotary here is a little advice for when setting up the machine.
When working in the then new Jennings Mining Mineral Sand Industry in the Geraldton wet/dry processing plant, the material was brought from Eneabba by rail.
Ilmenite, Rutile, Zircon and Monazite were extracted.
They used a rotary spinning on tyres at the mine site which were suffering blowouts on a regular basis. Also the horizontal buffer wheel up against one of the rims was continually chewing up bearings.
Was called in to try and solve the problem.
Used a theodolite and piano wire to install a fixed axial point.
Then adjusted the wheel supports, you could say a wheel alignment so the drum was tending to track upwards towards raised feed inlet, was now making only light contact with the buffer on the down side.
The original adjustments had all four wheels opposing each other causing the tyres to overheat and blowouts followed frequently.
The Michelin tyres now had extended life and production improved dramatically.
After the success with this operation, set up the same alignment principle with the three rotary kilns at the Geraldton site. Because the temperatures involved the kilns rotated on steel rollers but were suffering slightly from misalignment.
After completion you could say it was a "win win" situation both production and maintenance wise.
Mineral Sand production was a complicated process using Wilfley tables, magnetic, electrostatic and airtable extraction of product.
The Eastern States mineral sand industry was/is called beach mining, where as the Eneabba deposits are many kilometres inland from the Indian Ocean.
It was proven after establishing these deposits that they were once pushed ashore by wave action millions of years earlier when the WA coastline existed where Mineral sand Mining, towns & sheep/wheat farming coexist today.
I always took it that alignment in some thing like that would be crucial.
The stress's involved with a large trommel would be huge if out a few degree's.
I understand that very well.
When doing vehicle conversions, I would plumb and level the chassis dead true
by squaring of 4 points on the floor with chalk lines and plumb bob's etc. then use
a string line down the middle to set the thrust angles. Have fun with multiple
tail shaft drives. LOL
A few degree's out and you would not be able to sit in the vehicle from
vibrations/harmonics, (Yes, That big pulley at the front of the motor does a lot more
than you think. ) Not to mention the annihilation of Uni joints, bush's and bearings.
This thread not to inpune any one else's is one of the most interesting I have seen for a while.
The stress's involved with a large trommel would be huge if out a few degree's.
I understand that very well.
When doing vehicle conversions, I would plumb and level the chassis dead true
by squaring of 4 points on the floor with chalk lines and plumb bob's etc. then use
a string line down the middle to set the thrust angles. Have fun with multiple
tail shaft drives. LOL
A few degree's out and you would not be able to sit in the vehicle from
vibrations/harmonics, (Yes, That big pulley at the front of the motor does a lot more
than you think. ) Not to mention the annihilation of Uni joints, bush's and bearings.
This thread not to inpune any one else's is one of the most interesting I have seen for a while.
Well I Love It!
Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
Tathradj said:
I did a lot of chassis extensions between 1982 and 1996.
I built these in various chassis extensions from 300mm to 800mm and 6WD's. What's more important than the universal angle is to understand that the shaft output speed is not constant after passing through the bent universal joint. Simple incorrect assembly of the tail shaft can cause chaos.
Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
What do the say? Live & Learn.
Well I don't know how long the living will go on but the learning process is a very long one indeed.
I originally setup the end bearing of the wobble shaft using a rubber mounted bearing, a vehicle tail shaft centre bearing. My idea was to give the bearing the best chance of survival while the shaft was wobbling about. The problem was that when the load was applied the rubber compressed causing the shaft to bend and resulting in belt misalignment. Now I have a three piece shaft with the pulley end running on solidly mounted bearings and a connecting shaft with flexible couplings donated by CueBunno in the form of two BMW tailshafts.
And then there was the problem with the serpentine belt slipping. I've rearranged the pulleys to get more belt wrap and moved the modified belt tensioner to the slack side of the drive pulley where it should be.
And then it still gave me trouble. The belt runs off under load. What I found came to me at about 2:30am when I should have been sleeping. I mounted the Honda engine onto a sheet of 17mm form plywood to help absorb vibration and reduce noise. The result is that the plywood flexes slightly under load and causes the belt to run off. This morning I'm adding a steel frame to the engine mounting and setting up roller guides for the serpentine belt.
Sorry about the quality of the photos but the glare over these couple of 40+ days makes it difficult.
Well I don't know how long the living will go on but the learning process is a very long one indeed.
I originally setup the end bearing of the wobble shaft using a rubber mounted bearing, a vehicle tail shaft centre bearing. My idea was to give the bearing the best chance of survival while the shaft was wobbling about. The problem was that when the load was applied the rubber compressed causing the shaft to bend and resulting in belt misalignment. Now I have a three piece shaft with the pulley end running on solidly mounted bearings and a connecting shaft with flexible couplings donated by CueBunno in the form of two BMW tailshafts.
And then there was the problem with the serpentine belt slipping. I've rearranged the pulleys to get more belt wrap and moved the modified belt tensioner to the slack side of the drive pulley where it should be.
And then it still gave me trouble. The belt runs off under load. What I found came to me at about 2:30am when I should have been sleeping. I mounted the Honda engine onto a sheet of 17mm form plywood to help absorb vibration and reduce noise. The result is that the plywood flexes slightly under load and causes the belt to run off. This morning I'm adding a steel frame to the engine mounting and setting up roller guides for the serpentine belt.
Sorry about the quality of the photos but the glare over these couple of 40+ days makes it difficult.
BMW Drive shafts. ??
Can you get parts for them and what cost. ??? {) {)
Should have used Oh what a feeling fronts or Subaru. LOL
Well done MoneyBox.
Those who make mistakes succeed,
Those who don't fail are lying.
And lastly,
Never, Ever, Give up.
Just be more determined.
] ] :fistpump: :fistpump: ower:
Can you get parts for them and what cost. ??? {) {)
Should have used Oh what a feeling fronts or Subaru. LOL
Well done MoneyBox.
Those who make mistakes succeed,
Those who don't fail are lying.
And lastly,
Never, Ever, Give up.
Just be more determined.
]
] :fistpump: :fistpump: ower:
Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
Tathradj said:BMW Drive shafts. ??
Can you get parts for them and what cost. ??? {) {)
Should have used Oh what a feeling fronts or Subaru. LOL
Well done MoneyBox.
Those who make mistakes succeed,
Those who don't fail are lying.
And lastly,
Never, Ever, Give up.
Just be more determined.
]
The only Subaru in stock has been pretty well stripped bare but BMW, who wants BMW, there are at least 4 donor vehicles to choose from
Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
I'm pretty much done. Have I fixed it? I don't know but it looks good in the dark
I've realigned the engine with a steel base frame under the plywood. Then I cut a recess into the engine bay and fitted a couple of roller guides to the serpentine belt.
I fitted a larger diameter exhaust and an air filter restriction indicator.
I'll see what it looks like in the daylight and hopefully get it back out onto the lease.
I've realigned the engine with a steel base frame under the plywood. Then I cut a recess into the engine bay and fitted a couple of roller guides to the serpentine belt.
I fitted a larger diameter exhaust and an air filter restriction indicator.
I'll see what it looks like in the daylight and hopefully get it back out onto the lease.
Looks like you have ironed out the problems MB, hope your next run is filled with yellow.
