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I just finished this knife same (shape as the one in the post above) it's turned out very nice I think.

The blade is made from Hitachi SLD Stainless Damascus Clad and the blade length is 165mm long and 32mm high near the handle and 2.25mm thick at the spine near the handle with a small distal taper towards the tip.

The handle is Rosewood and Ebony with a Brass spacer and all finished with a Beeswax and Mineral Oil 50/50 mix

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cheers dave
 
Making some steak knives, this is the first one and out of the same steel as the previous blade, The blade is made from Hitachi SLD Stainless Damascus Clad
same steel as the last blade above.

The steak knives should all end up looking about the same and with wooden handles,

The length of the blade is 115mm x 16mm and as time goes by I will do a few more and hopefully get a set of at least 4 eventually

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cheers dave
 
Trying out a few old chainsaw bars for a home made knife collection.
The thought was trying to escape the hardening quenching process.
Looks like these CN bars are softer than the chains & are constructed in 3 sections creating the chain runner groove.
Not too shore if the blade will be to thin for a heat treat but will give it a go.
See if i can find the old Mc Culloch blade i had laying around some where fairly shore it was one solid piece.
1741717731662.jpeg
 
Trying out a few old chainsaw bars for a home made knife collection.
The thought was trying to escape the hardening quenching process.
Looks like these CN bars are softer than the chains & are constructed in 3 sections creating the chain runner groove.
Not too shore if the blade will be to thin for a heat treat but will give it a go.
See if i can find the old Mc Culloch blade i had laying around some where fairly shore it was one solid piece.
View attachment 16974
you can heat and oil quench (take it to non magnetic red heat) and then temper in oven at 200 deg C for 2 hours, before you get it fully shaped, it will help with not over heating the very thin part at the point then finish shaping and sanding etc
 
you can heat and oil quench (take it to non magnetic red heat) and then temper in oven at 200 deg C for 2 hours, before you get it fully shaped, it will help with not over heating the very thin part at the point then finish shaping and sanding etc
Good tip mate,
a few yrs back i had an issue with hairline cracks in a cast iron hydraulic casement housing coupling for pto engagement.
Parts were not available so used special arc welding rods high in Nickle pre heated the job prior.
I had heard placing the weld job in a steel bucket filled with sand to help slow the cooling process from further cracking.
Another bloke said to use Lime.
Ended up mixing the two and placed it in hot oven dropping the temp over 2 days.
It was still hot 4 days later after the oven was turned off.
It is amazing what you can do when there is no other options.
Heat Treat is everything no matter how great your component looks.
Iseki TD4451 4WD still working.
1741793915759.jpeg
Replaced a few broken gears while i was at it.
Had to have them made up inclussive a large spline gear.
David Brooks on FB the best in the Country . IMO .Central Coast.NSW.
1741794903781.jpeg1741794821219.jpeg
 
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