1993 Bushman camper trailer refit
- Thread starter nucopia
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limpalot said:
I have a spare wheel carrier from a prado , that i am going to put on the back of the camper to help even out the weight.
Yeah going to do that once we finish feeding the trailer wires through to the back for the tail lights ..madtuna said:
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Looking good nucopia :Y: how about putting a brace between the draw bar infront of the tool box and fit 2 gas bottles for those extended trips. If you do go with this the brace would only need to be a bit of flat 3mm and you could weld a bottle harness to it.
(Edit) by using a flat brace it would double up as a platform to stand on to reach the top rear of your vehicle. If you do also think about mounting a vice for those unplanned repair jobs you might find yourself having to do on the road.
(Edit) by using a flat brace it would double up as a platform to stand on to reach the top rear of your vehicle. If you do also think about mounting a vice for those unplanned repair jobs you might find yourself having to do on the road.
Great idea :Y:RM Outback said:
Planning to put 2 gas bottle holders in front of the tool box ..one for the 4.5 an one for the 9kg so I have the options to take either or both on a trip.
looking good mate well done :Y: :Y: :Y:
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I reckon your better with 2 x 9kg bottle's myself but that's just me. A bit like beer better to have more than required just in case :Y: 
.
(Edit) with the flat brace put a bit of 40x40x3 angle iron under it as a support.
.(Edit) with the flat brace put a bit of 40x40x3 angle iron under it as a support.
Remember, No welds across the Draw-bar..... Looking Good... :Y: 8)
LW....
LW....
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LoneWolf said:
What's the reason for that LW, I've done it a few times and never had any issues.
Cause it Can create a Weak spot that could bend or break...
http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/information/draw-bar-design/drawbar-welding/
I mentioned this way back in this thread.. page 6 post139. Hope you haven't done it nucopia... :8
Same reason you don't heat Reo-bar(steel reinforcing Bar) with oxy to bend it... Crystalizes the steel... and makes it very weak..
LW.....
http://www.trailersauce.co.nz/information/draw-bar-design/drawbar-welding/
I mentioned this way back in this thread.. page 6 post139.
Hope you haven't done it nucopia... :8 Same reason you don't heat Reo-bar(steel reinforcing Bar) with oxy to bend it... Crystalizes the steel... and makes it very weak..
LW.....
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Damn, that is a really nice welder your mate has :Y: :Y:
Lookin good, don't forget All up weight, or you'll need new suspension and an engineers certificate (in Vic you would at least, maybe not other states)
Does the Mrs like the camper?
Lookin good, don't forget All up weight, or you'll need new suspension and an engineers certificate (in Vic you would at least, maybe not other states)
Does the Mrs like the camper?
Lincon Welders are about the Best of the Best.... :Y:
LW....
LW....
Occasional panner .. yeah its massive machine . I was impressed, the mate said it cost him $3,500 ..
Surprisingly now with the longer draw bar, it is a lot easier to lift and manoeuvre the trailer..
All good LW the mate has worked at places that built trailers and caravan chassis in the past so he knows what his doing and Im lucky as its only cost me a couple of hundred for the material and a couple of cartons of XXXX .. I'm also learning a lot while working with him.. 8)
This morning we mounted 2 skid bars and wheels ate the rear of the camper and we stripped the paint off the front of the camper back to bare metal and the mate repaired some of the sheet metal where it was needed. In the afternoon we made the mounts for the tool box and one Jerry can holder and finished and mounted that Jerry can holder beside the tool box. One down one to go..
Next weekend the plan for Saturday is , we will make and mount the other Jerry can holder and the two gas bottle holders, then spray on the zinc alum under coat and do the top coat.
After that, start on the electrical wiring..
Surprisingly now with the longer draw bar, it is a lot easier to lift and manoeuvre the trailer..
All good LW the mate has worked at places that built trailers and caravan chassis in the past so he knows what his doing and Im lucky as its only cost me a couple of hundred for the material and a couple of cartons of XXXX
.. I'm also learning a lot while working with him.. 8) This morning we mounted 2 skid bars and wheels ate the rear of the camper and we stripped the paint off the front of the camper back to bare metal and the mate repaired some of the sheet metal where it was needed. In the afternoon we made the mounts for the tool box and one Jerry can holder and finished and mounted that Jerry can holder beside the tool box. One down one to go..
Next weekend the plan for Saturday is , we will make and mount the other Jerry can holder and the two gas bottle holders, then spray on the zinc alum under coat and do the top coat.
After that, start on the electrical wiring..
Nucopia .................. coming along nicely :Y: Figured when I saw the welder that your mate was probably a tradie as it's not exactly a hobby welder I also noted he's a big unit ................. ya mate that is, he nearly hides the front of the camper
Good point raised before about trailer GVM, which should be marked on trailer? I had the same issue when fitted rack to mine as it only left 100kg between tare and gross. Just made sure it was up to spec and took it in and re registered it with a 500kg higher GVM. Main reason being if they chuck you on their portable scales up here in Qld and your over weight, they can park you up there and then. Can become a rather large problem if your in the middle of nowhere as they are often set up here in Qld :N:
Just a humble opinion here, I think you may need to look at heavier springs. As with a few jerry cans, a couple of spares and contents of tool box you may be surprised how much the weight adds up. Two jerry cans and a deep cycle battery alone will eat the best part of 100 kg.
Easier to sort at home than on the side of the road. Either way bet your looking forward to the next trip with all the goodies added :Y: :Y:
I also noted he's a big unit ................. ya mate that is, he nearly hides the front of the camper Good point raised before about trailer GVM, which should be marked on trailer? I had the same issue when fitted rack to mine as it only left 100kg between tare and gross. Just made sure it was up to spec and took it in and re registered it with a 500kg higher GVM. Main reason being if they chuck you on their portable scales up here in Qld and your over weight, they can park you up there and then. Can become a rather large problem if your in the middle of nowhere as they are often set up here in Qld :N:
Just a humble opinion here, I think you may need to look at heavier springs. As with a few jerry cans, a couple of spares and contents of tool box you may be surprised how much the weight adds up. Two jerry cans and a deep cycle battery alone will eat the best part of 100 kg.
Easier to sort at home than on the side of the road. Either way bet your looking forward to the next trip with all the goodies added :Y: :Y:
Every thing we are doing is calculated to distribute the weight evenly, so that we do not increase the tow ball weight beyond the 250kg capacity..Bogger said:Nucopia .................. coming along nicely :Y: Figured when I saw the welder that your mate was probably a tradie as it's not exactly a hobby welder
Good point raised before about trailer GVM, which should be marked on trailer? I had the same issue when fitted rack to mine as it only left 100kg between tare and gross. Just made sure it was up to spec and took it in and re registered it with a 500kg higher GVM. Main reason being if they chuck you on their portable scales up here in Qld and your over weight, they can park you up there and then. Can become a rather large problem if your in the middle of nowhere as they are often set up here in Qld :N:
Just a humble opinion here, I think you may need to look at heavier springs. As with a few jerry cans, a couple of spares and contents of tool box you may be surprised how much the weight adds up. Two jerry cans and a deep cycle battery alone will eat the best part of 100 kg.
Easier to sort at home than on the side of the road. Either way bet your looking forward to the next trip with all the goodies added :Y: :Y:
Two x20kg full Jerry cans 1 x 30kg battery 4.5 plus 9kg =13.5kg gas bottles ..total 83.5 at the front.
That counter balences an 85 litre (85kg) water tank and spare tire < 8kg @ 93.5kg on the back..
Im pretty sure weight wont be a problem.
The Compliance plate says
Trailer mass (GVM) 380 kg Axle load capacity 1800 KG
When we finish the build I intend to pack it and take it to the local weigh bridge to check its loaded weight..
I Recon bugger all matemadtuna said:
I note you mention 250 kg ball weight ? That would be vehicle max ? Ball weight as a general rule should be 10% of trailer weight which I would expect to be under a 1000 kg = 100 kg ball weight.
In saying that, pretty sure once trailer weight exceeds 750 GVM has to have brakes fitted. Going on original trailer mass and what has been added I reckon you must be running pretty close. Using the Tregg type hitch would need to be electric. As said just trying to help out here and if you do need to fit electric brakes I have a few Tekonsha controllers and happy to send you one for free if you find it's needed. :Y:
Cheers
In saying that, pretty sure once trailer weight exceeds 750 GVM has to have brakes fitted. Going on original trailer mass and what has been added I reckon you must be running pretty close. Using the Tregg type hitch would need to be electric. As said just trying to help out here and if you do need to fit electric brakes I have a few Tekonsha controllers and happy to send you one for free if you find it's needed. :Y:
Cheers
After reading you have done a magic job and all points go on your score board chit hot....I couldn't see a mention of shocks , or did I miss it , or is it an over kill ....
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