Vehicle mods & upgrades. whats yours?

[Goldchaser1]

Bought a new spacecab dmax last year,upgraded from a hj61 cruza i had maybe 10 yrs,was driving 60 cruzas b4 that also,love the old girls but reality is loaded and tripping around wa was getting bloody expensive fuel wise,do i trust the dmax like the old cruza-nope,time will tell,22,000 on it now,15 would be dirt roads and bush,mods so far:
2 lift kit with bilstein shocks all round
extra fuel filter kit
rims & tyres,mickey ts
free wheel hubs fitted
bullbar,siderails and runva winch
long range tank
homemade rear toolbox
cuppla toolboxs behind the rear tyres
still quite a bit id like done to it yet,will attack it over summer......

 

[Eski]

All i can say is rangers are great till they get a problem. dads gearbox was rubbish from 40,000 k and dealer kept saying nothing wrong with it. the moment it ticked over the warranty period they said there is a problem with valve body.......thousands later still no resolution. plenty of people are Ranger experts apparently- all idiots.clearly pressure builds too quick on downshift and all the experts don't get that.. still stuffing around with the ombudsman.

mine has an unfindable electrical leak, and sucks the fuel big time.

we should have bought a hilux or a dmax

 

[Goldchaser1]

All i can say is rangers are great till they get a problem. dads gearbox was rubbish from 40,000 k and dealer kept saying nothing wrong with it. the moment it ticked over the warranty period they said there is a problem with valve body.......thousands later still no resolution. plenty of people are Ranger experts apparently- all idiots.clearly pressure builds too quick on downshift and all the experts don't get that.. still stuffing around with the ombudsman.

mine has an unfindable electrical leak, and sucks the fuel big time.

we should have bought a hilux or a dmax

not good mate,we bought a bt50 dual cab when the new shape came out,2013?. Its done 60-70ks now,the wifes car so its the town car,only time it goes bush is if i had the old cruza or my dmax now,otherwise if she goes out on her own she takes my car,its the bush car,unlike yours its manual but more or less all the same running gear i think,love that 5cyl 3.2,all ive done so far is a new battery last year and a while ago i did the box and both diff oils,rip into them,hope ya get it sorted......

ps: the new 6 sp auto in the dmax is the same box thats in the 200 series cruzas,behind that 3ltr it should be bulletproof,i went the auto.....

 

[GaryO]

Rather than start a new topic I thought I'd ask here.
I wanted to know if anyone has ideas about high lift points on an aluminium tray ? My first thought was to use the tow bar slot but on my car it's about 12 inches in from the back of the tray, however I can make up an extension easy enough but I'd rather be able to concentrate the lift to the side needed.
I could also mount steel tube across the chassis from one side to the other but had compliance concerns if a vehicle hit me from side on.
Thanks .

 

[Ridge Runner]

Rather than start a new topic I thought I'd ask here.
I wanted to know if anyone has ideas about high lift points on an aluminium tray ? My first thought was to use the tow bar slot but on my car it's about 12 inches in from the back of the tray, however I can make up an extension easy enough but I'd rather be able to concentrate the lift to the side needed.
I could also mount steel tube across the chassis from one side to the other but had compliance concerns if a vehicle hit me from side on.
Thanks .

Why don't you just buy the Hi-Lift Lift Mate that lifts the wheel instead of the jack having to lift the body/suspension first then you won't have to raise the Jack so High, ?

 

[GaryO]

I may do that if nothing better arises, but I'd like to be able to drive of the jack if required. :8

 

[Ridge Runner]

I may do that if nothing better arises, but I'd like to be able to drive of the jack if required. :8

Well you might be better off sliding a piece of 3.2mm walled box section inside the chassis rail and using that to lift from,

 

[GaryO]

I may do that if nothing better arises, but I'd like to be able to drive of the jack if required. :8

Well you might be better off sliding a piece of 3.2mm walled box section inside the chassis rail and using that to lift from,

That's a good idea, I'll have to measure up what size i can fit as its partly covered by the tow bar mounting bolts.

 

[Smoky bandit]

Cb...offroad gps...touch screen stereo ...That's all the LT rodeo needs. :lol: :lol: erfect:

 

[Ridge Runner]

I may do that if nothing better arises, but I'd like to be able to drive of the jack if required. :8

Well you might be better off sliding a piece of 3.2mm walled box section inside the chassis rail and using that to lift from,

That's a good idea, I'll have to measure up what size i can fit as its partly covered by the tow bar mounting bolts.

Another Idea would be to make a back bumper out of 3x2 OR 75mm X 51mm 3.2mm walled box section or 4 x 2 of 4mm walled Box even better and jack on that, you don't need anything bigger than that,

But don't just add 2 short bits to the end of the Tow bar because that won't be strong enough, You need a One piece length the full width of the Truck or it will break.

 

[Ded Driver]

Rather than start a new topic I thought I'd ask here.
I wanted to know if anyone has ideas about high lift points on an aluminium tray ? My first thought was to use the tow bar slot but on my car it's about 12 inches in from the back of the tray, however I can make up an extension easy enough but I'd rather be able to concentrate the lift to the side needed.
I could also mount steel tube across the chassis from one side to the other but had compliance concerns if a vehicle hit me from side on.
Thanks .

There are many versions of after-market trays available, & the steel ones are no doubt more rigid than the pressed ute body that comes off, so I wouldn't be too worried about compliance by putting a steel tube under your tray. You don't want to be lifting directly on the aluminium, but would be better bolted across the chassis rails than lifting your vehicle from the bolts holding the tray to the chassis!
Also, you can get a lifting lug that hooks into the slots in your (steel) rims, if you have slots. If its a tyre you want to change, well you're not suppose to change a tyre whilst the vehicle is sitting on a high lift jack. You should have axle stands under it.

 

[condor22]

Maxtrax pins mounted on roof basket, no more roping them on
Pics instead of words, lol

 

[Ridge Runner]

I'm still struggling as to which fridge to fit in the Van/Camper, The little Dometic CDF-18 is my Go To fridge due to it's crazy low power draw, The problem is do i fit the 47L or the 78L, The CDF-18 I use for lunch and cans of soft drink because it's too small for a beer fridge, It holds about 23 330ml cans so it's not really suited for Beer, It will hold a weeks worth of food frozen or just chilled.

I was thinking of buying one of the New Dometic CFX 3 series just released over here like the CFX 3-95L but it costs $2373.10c AUD which is a bit OTT,

This new Camper conversion has good and bad points, One annoying thing it the Table Leg mount because if that was not bolted to the floor I could mount either of the fridges there, But I like having the Table so that idea is out, Other option is because the Bed space is about 2.2m X 1.4m +/- I have the whole right hand side to mount either fridge,

This conversion is really good but I think I need to add some wall storage and remove the 5th seat, Then the Big fridge can sit down 200m Lower, I have already removed seats 6 and 7,

I have it stocked up and ready to Go because on Wednesday I am leaving for and overnight test of the camp and the next day I am going to the Birmingham Camping and Caravan Expo which is about 350K's North of me, :inlove: :inlove: :inlove:

 

[condor22]

If you already have an 18 lt, 47 lt and 78 lt, methinks you don't need another, lol.

I have a 128 lt fridge in the caravan, of which 20 lt is freezer + the 30 lt Engel as a fridge in the 4x4. That's plenty for my 8 week trips, but I do have restock very close by in Vic.

Why "not suited for beer" ? I use my Engel for lunch, softies n beer. I put 6-8 beers in it and refill as I use it. No need to put the whole slab in there, lol.

 

[Jaros]

So true. 2 45ltr engels is plenty for the 2 of us.

 

[Ridge Runner]

If you already have an 18 lt, 47 lt and 78 lt, methinks you don't need another, lol.

I have a 128 lt fridge in the caravan, of which 20 lt is freezer + the 30 lt Engel as a fridge in the 4x4. That's plenty for my 8 week trips, but I do have restock very close by in Vic.

Why "not suited for beer" ? I use my Engel for lunch, softies n beer. I put 6-8 beers in it and refill as I use it. No need to put the whole slab in there, lol.

That's a good Idea.

The CDF-18 has a odd shaped lower section that only holds 5 Cans, One in each corner and one in the middle and the Cooling element is in the upper section which hold about 15 330ml cans standing and about another 7 laying on their side. For some reason the lower section is narrower than the top section, If they had made it the same top and bottom then it would of been spot on.

Power wise It is the best fridge I have ever tested, Using 120w on 240v per 24 hours and around 60w running on 12v DC per 24 hours, Set at 2*C.

 

[Ded Driver]

RR, the solution is very simple.
remove the cupboard/storage where you would have put food, & use the space for a beer fridge.
:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: layful:

 

[Ridge Runner]

RR, the solution is very simple.
remove the cupboard/storage where you would have put food, & use the space for a beer fridge.
:beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: layful:

Thanks DD, I knew you Guys would have my back, Might put the 78 in the back and rip out the passenger and put the 47 there 120 cans PLUS 72 that should be enough, :Y: :Y: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: