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The forge is getting another workout today, I made this from a Railway Spike (Dog Spike) it is a "Butter Knife" for camping/cooking etc

Lots of heating and hammering and twisting involved in this project 🤔

The finished Butter Knife
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View attachment 8757
cheers dave
Wow, looks terrific, could that steel be honed to a sharp edge Dave? I imagine that dog spike steel has a high carbon content.
 
Wow, looks terrific, could that steel be honed to a sharp edge Dave? I imagine that dog spike steel has a high carbon content.
thanks Bora68, the dog spikes are not very high carbon content steel, just a bit higher than mild steel and there more a novelty item than a practical use item but look neat. It has a sharp edge, but it will not hold an edge for long and would need re sharpening often. Being a "Butter Knife" the butter is not going to dull the edge for a very long time. 🤔

They do respond to heating up to very red hot and quenching in oil, I use Canola Oil or you could use old mineral motor oil and then do a tempering, but that is maybe not essential, as the railway spikes are not going to harden anywhere near as much as a true high carbon steel.
 
another railway spike project, this time a small axe (Viking Axe) camp tomahawk, I started this a couple of days ago and finished it today

plenty of heating in the forge and hammering to get it to a shape that looks ok.


the finished project
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before the handle
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the starting point, this is how the railway spike is to begin with
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cheers dave
 
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I made up a shovel to go on the braided twist handle I made up a little while back, now I have three fireplace tools and I reckon I'll need a stand soon to hang them on.

The braided twist handle to go on the shovel
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the completed fireplace shovel
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the three fireplace tools together with three different types of twisted handles
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cheers dave
 
I made a hot punch this morning to punch a hole through hot metal that has been heated red hot.

the hot punch is made from a round section Railway clip straightened out and shaped, annealed, then sanded to clean up the cutting end and then quenched in oil and tempered (heat treated and tempered)

One of these clips heated and straightened
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turned onto this hot cut punch
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tried it out on this 25x5 flat to punch a hole to fit another piece of 25x5 flat through
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also just finished another Viking Axe Mk2 tomahawk camp axe, just have to fit a handle
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cheers dave
 
Not sure how long that Chevron Twist handle is but with a case-hardened right angled spike at the bottom end it would make a magnificent crevicing tool.
I made up a Crevicing tool this morning, I put a basket twist handle on this one instead of the Chevron twist as you actually get a better grip on the handle with this basket twist

The handle is made from 6mm round mild steel and the scratcher is 5160 spring steel the whole thing is quenched in oil and tempered so I think the connection from mild steel to the spring steel should be ok under normal use anyway 😁

The whole thing is 360mm (14") from end to end

The Crevice tool with the basket twist handle
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cheers dave
 
another railway spike project, this time a small axe (Viking Axe) camp tomahawk, I started this a couple of days ago and finished it today

plenty of heating in the forge and hammering to get it to a shape that looks ok.


the finished project
View attachment 8792

View attachment 8793

before the handle
View attachment 8794

the starting point, this is how the railway spike is to begin with
View attachment 8795
cheers dave
That is stunning fella. How do you form the hole for the handle? Also incredible that the broad blade part came just from the end of dog spike. You would have been in huge demand in the Viking days or a price placed on uour head .Great work.
 
That is stunning fella. How do you form the hole for the handle? Also incredible that the broad blade part came just from the end of dog spike. You would have been in huge demand in the Viking days or a price placed on uour head .Great work.
g'day Bora68, the hole "eye" for the handle is hot cut through with a hot cut chisel and a hot punch, once the hole is through and opened up a bit you use a "Drift" that is the shape of the eye you want it fit the handle to, all this is done at a high heat

Yes it is amazing that the dog spike will forge out that much, and to begin with I hammer the end of the dog spike in towards itself called "Upsetting" the end which bulges it some and this helps with then forging the actual axe shape down, otherwise it is very easy to make it a long skinny shape when you want it wide and spread out.

cheers dave
 

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