Hope you took Andrews Health Salt after the Ford Pills, to "promote healthy inner cleanliness".
From memory, maybe wrong, the Rawley's Man toured the rural midwest back in the 50's and yes Bex was on Mums list but heaven help it was the Ford Pills that had us running. (Literally, perfect cure for constipation)
7 years into TV and you did not have one? Underprivelidged (or rural). Neither did I, but I had the only cricket bat in the street so could use it as a bribe to watch TV with my neighbour.Didn't have TV back in '63 let alone ads.
Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences:Bex and Vincents powders were full of caffein. I'm not sure how much.
I often wondered what happened to them. Must've needed a fix.
You obviously lived in the city, 10+ metre aerials in the country occasionally helped. Yes, we did have TV, when the word was out that the TV wasn't snowing in the main street shop. Half the town crowded around the shop window to get a glimpse of this curse.
Reminds me of my parents recollection. They had a telle,could afford two but one was enough. Their difficulty was getting a picture suitable for viewing, twisting and turning the rabbit ear aerial
They soon got sick of that capper turned off the lights and went to bed. Ten kids later and they still had trouble with the new fandangled technology I'm not insinuating having ten kids is a reflection of stupidity, I'm number 8 and wouldn't be here if it was just a reflection of their experiences, some might think otherwise like older siblings.
Yep, we lived in open paddocks in what is now inner urban. Would walk down the street to the creek with our rifles to do some shooting. But Victoria got TV for the 1956 Olympic Games (black and white) but we could not afford one (and snow was a problem - after turning on there was a lot of fiddling to get fairly clear pictures). The cricket bat gave me an advantage, but then my dad became a TV repairman so we usually had a TV to watch transitioning from owner to us and back.
If this wasn't serious it would be hilarious...
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Brad Landers
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What happens if I shift to 1st gear in a manual transmission vehicle while driving 130 mph?
What a fun question! This examination is best approached chronologically, because there are actually a sequence of consequences.
So, you’re driving along at 130 MPH, you press the clutch in, and you attempt to put the shift lever into 1st gear. This is the first point at which you’ll likely encounter a problem.
A (typical) manual transmission
[1]
has two shafts: an input shaft, and an output shaft. When you press the clutch pedal, the input shaft is decoupled from the engine. That is to say, it spins freely. This allows you to select the desired gear. When you select another gear, the RPM of the input shaft must be “synchronized” with the speed of the output shaft, based on the ratio of the gear desired.
The mechanism responsible for this synchronization is called “synchromesh”. It’s a combination of conical clutches and a series of gated channels through which the gear-engagement collets must slide. The problem you’ll encounter is that at 130 MPH, the required RPM of the input shaft for 1st gear will be extremely high. Let’s look at an example using a 2016 BMW 328i with a manual transmission, because I happen to have these numbers at hand:
This would require the input shaft to spin up to (roughly) 31,000 RPM. As mentioned previously, the manual transmission performs this “synchronization” mechanically. It is unlikely that the synchro clutches are up to this task, as the normal operating range of the input shaft matches that of the engine (around 7,000 RPM). So expect the synchro to fail as you force the transmission into gear.
- Rear-axle ratio: 3.909
- Tire height: 26″ (OEM with base wheels)
- 1st gear ratio: 4.714
If you did manage to jam it in gear — as the bits and pieces of the synchro clutch ring are digested by the gearset — the clutch plate would spin up to 31,000 RPM and probably separate, sending clutch material and metal components flying outward at alarming energy levels. Fortunately, they would (probably) be contained by the pressure plate and the transmission’s bell housing, so you’d hear a very loud bang, and that would be the end of your clutch.
At 30,000 RPM, the entire input shaft will have exceeded its design limit by a considerable margin. While it may survive for a brief period, the heat generated will be tremendous. At some point, a bearing will fail, and the entire rotating assembly attached to the input shaft will move from its normal position. The many gears contained therein will shatter, and the transmission housing will likely rupture, sending a mix of gears and lubricating fluid onto the underside of the car and the road surface.
Should you ignore the clutch explosion and raise your foot off the clutch pedal before the transmission’s innards exit their preferred location, there may be sufficient shrapnel remaining to catch upon the pressure plate and flywheel, which would spin the engine to a point that exceeds the design limit. Typical failures in this event include:
It’s unlikely that the engine will reach anywhere near 30,000 RPM before these failures lock the engine up entirely. The really bad news for you is the final consequence, which is a likely outcome in just about any eventuality past the point of actual gear engagement: driveline lock-up.
- Valve / piston impact, resulting in bent valves and broken pistons.
- Connecting rod failure, resulting in damage to the engine block and oil pan.
- An ejection of lubricating fluids (oil) from crankcase ventilation orifices.
The rear tires of the car are linked to the rest of the driveline, so if the driveline stops rotating, so do the tires. I don’t know if you have ever pulled the handbrake in a car — back before the days of these confounded electronic parking brakes — but to say that it destabilizes the car would be like saying that detonating a stick of dynamite might dislodge a stuck trunk latch.
At 130 MPH, you will find yourself with two rear tires that no longer provide any sort of directional stability. The rear of the car will slide toward the edge of the roadway, because roadways are built with a crest in the center in order to facilitate drainage. Best case scenario at this point, you input the finite amount of steering correction to keep the rear from passing the front, and you end up off-road at +100 MPH. Unless you’re driving an Ultra4 truck, your day is only going to get worse from here. You’ll add considerable hospital bills to your automotive repair bills.
And that’s just about all I can think of off-hand.
Reminds me when the Dragon and i were a lot younger (her 17, me 18) i owned a Morris 1100 was my first newer car after the 1947 prefect hehehehhe brings back memories, Dragon got her learners permit and i offered to teach her to drive, we drove around the Belmont shopping centre car park and her being very blond changed from 3rd at about 25 mph into 1 st and stood the morrie on its nose not to say i was not happy, as if to destroy me and the car she laughed, then a week later after she got the hang of gear changes and pedals etc we were driving up grand Promenade and came to the intersection of grand Prom and Beaufort street and she asked which way do i go now, i said straight through so she dropped the Morrie down to 3rd and sped straight through the intersection between a bus and Falcon and almost sent morrie air borne, consequently that was the end of me teaching her to drive from then on i left it to her father poor bugger he also nearly had a corony as well.If this wasn't serious it would be hilarious...
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Brad Landers
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4y
What happens if I shift to 1st gear in a manual transmission vehicle while driving 130 mph?
What a fun question! This examination is best approached chronologically, because there are actually a sequence of consequences.
So, you’re driving along at 130 MPH, you press the clutch in, and you attempt to put the shift lever into 1st gear. This is the first point at which you’ll likely encounter a problem.
A (typical) manual transmission
[1]
has two shafts: an input shaft, and an output shaft. When you press the clutch pedal, the input shaft is decoupled from the engine. That is to say, it spins freely. This allows you to select the desired gear. When you select another gear, the RPM of the input shaft must be “synchronized” with the speed of the output shaft, based on the ratio of the gear desired.
The mechanism responsible for this synchronization is called “synchromesh”. It’s a combination of conical clutches and a series of gated channels through which the gear-engagement collets must slide. The problem you’ll encounter is that at 130 MPH, the required RPM of the input shaft for 1st gear will be extremely high. Let’s look at an example using a 2016 BMW 328i with a manual transmission, because I happen to have these numbers at hand:
This would require the input shaft to spin up to (roughly) 31,000 RPM. As mentioned previously, the manual transmission performs this “synchronization” mechanically. It is unlikely that the synchro clutches are up to this task, as the normal operating range of the input shaft matches that of the engine (around 7,000 RPM). So expect the synchro to fail as you force the transmission into gear.
- Rear-axle ratio: 3.909
- Tire height: 26″ (OEM with base wheels)
- 1st gear ratio: 4.714
If you did manage to jam it in gear — as the bits and pieces of the synchro clutch ring are digested by the gearset — the clutch plate would spin up to 31,000 RPM and probably separate, sending clutch material and metal components flying outward at alarming energy levels. Fortunately, they would (probably) be contained by the pressure plate and the transmission’s bell housing, so you’d hear a very loud bang, and that would be the end of your clutch.
At 30,000 RPM, the entire input shaft will have exceeded its design limit by a considerable margin. While it may survive for a brief period, the heat generated will be tremendous. At some point, a bearing will fail, and the entire rotating assembly attached to the input shaft will move from its normal position. The many gears contained therein will shatter, and the transmission housing will likely rupture, sending a mix of gears and lubricating fluid onto the underside of the car and the road surface.
Should you ignore the clutch explosion and raise your foot off the clutch pedal before the transmission’s innards exit their preferred location, there may be sufficient shrapnel remaining to catch upon the pressure plate and flywheel, which would spin the engine to a point that exceeds the design limit. Typical failures in this event include:
It’s unlikely that the engine will reach anywhere near 30,000 RPM before these failures lock the engine up entirely. The really bad news for you is the final consequence, which is a likely outcome in just about any eventuality past the point of actual gear engagement: driveline lock-up.
- Valve / piston impact, resulting in bent valves and broken pistons.
- Connecting rod failure, resulting in damage to the engine block and oil pan.
- An ejection of lubricating fluids (oil) from crankcase ventilation orifices.
The rear tires of the car are linked to the rest of the driveline, so if the driveline stops rotating, so do the tires. I don’t know if you have ever pulled the handbrake in a car — back before the days of these confounded electronic parking brakes — but to say that it destabilizes the car would be like saying that detonating a stick of dynamite might dislodge a stuck trunk latch.
At 130 MPH, you will find yourself with two rear tires that no longer provide any sort of directional stability. The rear of the car will slide toward the edge of the roadway, because roadways are built with a crest in the center in order to facilitate drainage. Best case scenario at this point, you input the finite amount of steering correction to keep the rear from passing the front, and you end up off-road at +100 MPH. Unless you’re driving an Ultra4 truck, your day is only going to get worse from here. You’ll add considerable hospital bills to your automotive repair bills.
And that’s just about all I can think of off-hand.
Does the "Dragon" see your posts Rustyhooks?
One person who was told those powders were habit-forming is reported as saying,"What nonsense. I ought to know, I've been taking them every morning for forty years".
Like an apprentice Fitter & Turner I know. True story back in the 60's.Had a container sinking in one corner and was trying to jack it up to level it, but ground being soft the jack was sinking rather than lifting container. Son (19) who was observing (but obviously missed out in the gene pool) as I pondered the solution offered help. Dad why don't you use the block and tackle ? Looking at him quizzically I asked, Ok but what do I hook it to? There was the reply as he pointed to the top of the container.
Very sad day for me but true story.
I know someone who decided to change down to low gear when travelling fast. The results were exactly as described above. We all learned a lesson from it.If this wasn't serious it would be hilarious...
Copied from Quora!
From your Digest
Brad Landers
·
Follow
4y
What happens if I shift to 1st gear in a manual transmission vehicle while driving 130 mph?
What a fun question! This examination is best approached chronologically, because there are actually a sequence of consequences.
So, you’re driving along at 130 MPH, you press the clutch in, and you attempt to put the shift lever into 1st gear. This is the first point at which you’ll likely encounter a problem.
A (typical) manual transmission
[1]
has two shafts: an input shaft, and an output shaft. When you press the clutch pedal, the input shaft is decoupled from the engine. That is to say, it spins freely. This allows you to select the desired gear. When you select another gear, the RPM of the input shaft must be “synchronized” with the speed of the output shaft, based on the ratio of the gear desired.
The mechanism responsible for this synchronization is called “synchromesh”. It’s a combination of conical clutches and a series of gated channels through which the gear-engagement collets must slide. The problem you’ll encounter is that at 130 MPH, the required RPM of the input shaft for 1st gear will be extremely high. Let’s look at an example using a 2016 BMW 328i with a manual transmission, because I happen to have these numbers at hand:
This would require the input shaft to spin up to (roughly) 31,000 RPM. As mentioned previously, the manual transmission performs this “synchronization” mechanically. It is unlikely that the synchro clutches are up to this task, as the normal operating range of the input shaft matches that of the engine (around 7,000 RPM). So expect the synchro to fail as you force the transmission into gear.
- Rear-axle ratio: 3.909
- Tire height: 26″ (OEM with base wheels)
- 1st gear ratio: 4.714
If you did manage to jam it in gear — as the bits and pieces of the synchro clutch ring are digested by the gearset — the clutch plate would spin up to 31,000 RPM and probably separate, sending clutch material and metal components flying outward at alarming energy levels. Fortunately, they would (probably) be contained by the pressure plate and the transmission’s bell housing, so you’d hear a very loud bang, and that would be the end of your clutch.
At 30,000 RPM, the entire input shaft will have exceeded its design limit by a considerable margin. While it may survive for a brief period, the heat generated will be tremendous. At some point, a bearing will fail, and the entire rotating assembly attached to the input shaft will move from its normal position. The many gears contained therein will shatter, and the transmission housing will likely rupture, sending a mix of gears and lubricating fluid onto the underside of the car and the road surface.
Should you ignore the clutch explosion and raise your foot off the clutch pedal before the transmission’s innards exit their preferred location, there may be sufficient shrapnel remaining to catch upon the pressure plate and flywheel, which would spin the engine to a point that exceeds the design limit. Typical failures in this event include:
It’s unlikely that the engine will reach anywhere near 30,000 RPM before these failures lock the engine up entirely. The really bad news for you is the final consequence, which is a likely outcome in just about any eventuality past the point of actual gear engagement: driveline lock-up.
- Valve / piston impact, resulting in bent valves and broken pistons.
- Connecting rod failure, resulting in damage to the engine block and oil pan.
- An ejection of lubricating fluids (oil) from crankcase ventilation orifices.
The rear tires of the car are linked to the rest of the driveline, so if the driveline stops rotating, so do the tires. I don’t know if you have ever pulled the handbrake in a car — back before the days of these confounded electronic parking brakes — but to say that it destabilizes the car would be like saying that detonating a stick of dynamite might dislodge a stuck trunk latch.
At 130 MPH, you will find yourself with two rear tires that no longer provide any sort of directional stability. The rear of the car will slide toward the edge of the roadway, because roadways are built with a crest in the center in order to facilitate drainage. Best case scenario at this point, you input the finite amount of steering correction to keep the rear from passing the front, and you end up off-road at +100 MPH. Unless you’re driving an Ultra4 truck, your day is only going to get worse from here. You’ll add considerable hospital bills to your automotive repair bills.
And that’s just about all I can think of off-hand.
