Sluicing help
- Thread starter NJH prospecting
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Thanks mate op I live about 1 k from Oallen ford I did see Wal down their last week but I wasn't set up yet fue guys get down there I will be back out on the weekend for some more testing as I can not test at home I am on tank water cheers
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20xwater were you having similar problems with yours
From what you can tell with the potato quality pics, the unit itself looks well made but damn! those riffles! I'm not sure what size pump and how much water they would recommend!
No wonder they are packing up, they are so deep for such a small unit. I can't quite tell from the pic but they look like they are somewhere around 80 degrees?
Surely that can't be right? You could shorten them (it looks like it could be a pain to do) and then try it again in the field, or if you have the gear and materials maybe pull those ones out and make some new ones, I like hungarian riffles design. You could also just pull it all out and go for Dream Mat if you don't mind spending just a bit more, from all accounts you won't regret it.
I have posted this webpage before but it's a good read
http://www.goldgold.com/the-size-of-riffles-2.html
Looking at the video it looks like it's running ok but needs more water. Unless I'm seeing it wrong there is material behind the riffle and bare mat before the next riffle? It doesn't look like it's building up to me. As you shovel in does the zone between the riffles fill a bit then clear out?
With levellng Go off the suggestions above but note what is happening when the banker is running every now and check whether the material is evenly distributed across the sluice behind the riffle rather than piling up on one side. In the clip it looks like there is more material on the left side.
To clarify are the riffles 40mm vertical off the sluice bottom and are flat plate?
Jon
With levellng Go off the suggestions above but note what is happening when the banker is running every now and check whether the material is evenly distributed across the sluice behind the riffle rather than piling up on one side. In the clip it looks like there is more material on the left side.
To clarify are the riffles 40mm vertical off the sluice bottom and are flat plate?
Jon
sure did, the shell itself was all I ended up with after modifying everything. the threadNJH prospecting said:
for the leg screws don't last long, I see they have upgraded a splash guard for hopper(seriously needed it).
for a bend and rivet banker its been built pretty good.
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Aussiechris I think I will take 5-10mm off them and see how I go . And make another set will expanded mess and riffles to go in the a just trial them both well I had a 1 1-2 in pump running almost flat out I through that would be way to much water as it is not very settled water was going everywhere . Blisters that. Ideo was at the start of you put two shovels in after each other not very quick it blocks up the first two riffles then blocks the rest not had packed but no exposed miners moss material would be 10 to 15 mm deep on top of the minors moss . The riffles are angled I have not checked the angle yet I will check this after noon cheers nick
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20xwater yea they are built well the splash guard does sweet fa you still get soaked with water I think I may have to go the same way as you ther how ware your riffles held in and is it 3 seperate minors moss sections
I wouldn't cut down your riffles as you might make it worse. There is probably a certain design consideration to make them like that. You are better off making a steel set to experiment but maybe look at the breadcrate design and use that to get going.
Jon
Jon
Actually, The riffles you see are not riffles. :N:
You also have a heck of a lot of restrictions in your water inlet
side of things.
The banker you have is mainly for the expanded mesh.
I would work on deleting the first and second riffle leaving the last one
in place.
I think you have too much water and too much angle.
I would highly recommend you go the Dream mat path as to a newbie,
That banker the way it is will take you a while to get it right.
You also have a heck of a lot of restrictions in your water inlet
side of things.
The banker you have is mainly for the expanded mesh.
I would work on deleting the first and second riffle leaving the last one
in place.
I think you have too much water and too much angle.
I would highly recommend you go the Dream mat path as to a newbie,
That banker the way it is will take you a while to get it right.
NJH prospecting said:
I'm just showing what I did with mine, riffles are actualy cut lengths of 90 degree angle and yeah 3 separate moss sections. I do my own thing!
but recommend talking to goldrat
ps..that banker is long gone, built something better.
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Tathradj said:
Tath, are you talking about the picture with the blue expanded mesh and three vertical plates? If so that belongs to 20x not the thread starter.
NJH you'll find it fiddly to fit dream matt as your sluice bed is tapered.
You may not want to hear this, but before you go spending a heap on it or cutting things maybe sell it and try to recover as much as possible and get a gold rat which has the dream matt already.
https://highbanker.com.au/collectio...products/10-outback-pioneer-series-highbanker
If you want to persevere with it perhaps take the riffle tray out and get expanded mesh for it.
I suggest you contact the supplier as they obviously designed it like that to work like that , they would know more than us about that design, as its different to what I run , contact them with pictures and video and see what they say before you cut it to bits , maybe they are onto something or maybe they are on something ]
if they don't offer after sales help tell em to eat worms
let us know what they say :Y:
if they don't offer after sales help tell em to eat worms
let us know what they say :Y:
your problem as far as i can see are the riffles
chuck the riffles over the left shoulder and make some new ones smaller and lower the angle
chuck the riffles over the left shoulder and make some new ones smaller and lower the angle
The restrictions I is talking about are in the spray bar inlet.
The hose screw on fitting including the barb.
The taps have a smaller bore through the internal ball valve.
.
Sorry if I screwed up on who's banker is who. :8
The hose screw on fitting including the barb.
The taps have a smaller bore through the internal ball valve.
.
Sorry if I screwed up on who's banker is who. :8
20xwater said:
Now that is a work of both craftsmanship and metal. :Y: :Y: :Y:
But,
To make the mesh even more efficient, It is best have a smooth
laminar flow above it.
Almost smooth on top but active in and around the mesh.
Never the less, If it is catching a good amount of Gold.
Be Happy as it is your rig, not any one else s.
You would not be able to hide in the bush with it though. LOL
Well Done...
But,
To make the mesh even more efficient, It is best have a smooth
laminar flow above it.
Almost smooth on top but active in and around the mesh.
Never the less, If it is catching a good amount of Gold.
Be Happy as it is your rig, not any one else s.
You would not be able to hide in the bush with it though. LOL
Well Done...
20xwater said:
Hi NJH,
A good rule of thumb and a great guide to where to start with setting up you sluice is remember the 8 and 1 ratio, for every 8" long the sluice needs to be dropped on the front end by 1", so if yours is 40" long it requires to be dropped at the front by 5". I have been using this ratio for many years now and I have just about got it down pat. I also run two different pumps on different days and regulate the flow accordingly I have a 11/2" and a 3", I like to use as much power as possible and idle the engine back so I am not advertising my presence to every tom, **** and harry. If you have this setup you can adjust it to suit the materials you are putting through. Also try to use clean water if possible otherwise the gold will get away from you on the muddy water. I don't lose any out the front and I certainly have great success. cheers Goldslave.
A good rule of thumb and a great guide to where to start with setting up you sluice is remember the 8 and 1 ratio, for every 8" long the sluice needs to be dropped on the front end by 1", so if yours is 40" long it requires to be dropped at the front by 5". I have been using this ratio for many years now and I have just about got it down pat. I also run two different pumps on different days and regulate the flow accordingly I have a 11/2" and a 3", I like to use as much power as possible and idle the engine back so I am not advertising my presence to every tom, **** and harry. If you have this setup you can adjust it to suit the materials you are putting through. Also try to use clean water if possible otherwise the gold will get away from you on the muddy water. I don't lose any out the front and I certainly have great success. cheers Goldslave.
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