New Gold Detecting Pick
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Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
It isn't until you go buy a new pick that you realise just how worn out your old one is
Bought a big brother this time, ground killer, time to strip
View attachment 10942
I've found the easiest way to resurrect an old pick is to overlay a good piece of wear plate on the tip.
That way you can easily grind the worn tip off and replace it whenever you like. Don't weld across the back or it'll snap at that point.
Good idea.
Broke it in today, absolutely love it, cuts through the ground like cheese.
When the spade end gets blunt, can I use a grinder to sharpen it or will that soften the steel?
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I use the grinder on mine but very lightly + take my time. You've got to be patient & don't "lean" into it trying to get it done quickly. If you overheat the metal it will lose strength & hardness.
If you're concerned you could use a bucket of water & regularly dip it to keep cool.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/threads/picks-should-you-sharpen-them-or-not.35938/post-585155
If you're concerned you could use a bucket of water & regularly dip it to keep cool.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/threads/picks-should-you-sharpen-them-or-not.35938/post-585155
I've learnt something valuable from this pick, keeping it sharp will reduce energy use big time particularly the spade side when stripping the gravel-less inches off the top to determine a possible deep target.
Most of my energy is consumed by the scrapes, but it has to be done.
Most of my energy is consumed by the scrapes, but it has to be done.
as mbasko said 20x keep it cool ,slow and steady and a bucket of water is your best friend when grinding
what ever you do do not bring any colour to the steel at all and you will not change the hardness or temper
what ever you do do not bring any colour to the steel at all and you will not change the hardness or temper
SS, why do you quench in water for some and oil for other tempers? Cheers mate
depends on the steel mackka
you get
air hardening steel
water hardening steel
oil hardening steels
depends on what the steel is used for
people get the hardening and tempers process back to front mackka
harden then temper
when it is hardened the steel can be quite brittle that is why you temper it
you don't want to forge a nice cold chisel and first hit with the hammer and it explodes into thousands of pieces and shreds the wrist mackka not good mate
that's why you temper it to a certain hardness
different colours define how hard you want the steel to be mackka
that's why you have to be very carefull when using a angle grinder to sharpen the pick
if it is to hot to touch you have more than likely already started to change the temper
here is a little chart mackka
dull red to bordering on bright red are about the scope for hardening most steels (heated till it is non magnetic what they call critical temperature)
from light straw to dark grey are the common temper colours
cheers mate hope that cleared the muddy waters for you mate
you get
air hardening steel
water hardening steel
oil hardening steels
depends on what the steel is used for
people get the hardening and tempers process back to front mackka
harden then temper
when it is hardened the steel can be quite brittle that is why you temper it
you don't want to forge a nice cold chisel and first hit with the hammer and it explodes into thousands of pieces and shreds the wrist mackka not good mate
that's why you temper it to a certain hardness
different colours define how hard you want the steel to be mackka
that's why you have to be very carefull when using a angle grinder to sharpen the pick
if it is to hot to touch you have more than likely already started to change the temper
here is a little chart mackka
dull red to bordering on bright red are about the scope for hardening most steels (heated till it is non magnetic what they call critical temperature)
from light straw to dark grey are the common temper colours
cheers mate hope that cleared the muddy waters for you mate
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Dave's Office
Have Detector Will Travel
You learn something new every time you check the posts, thanks for that info Grumpy. 
Thanks SS , now I know. Cheers
forgot to mention too mackka that the smiths were in a darkish environment
you could see the true colours that way ,that's why the old blacksmiths shops were a dark place
joe blogs in the shed at home with the angle grinder in the normal light of a shed the colours are quite higher
faint straw would be about dark straw
you could see the true colours that way ,that's why the old blacksmiths shops were a dark place
joe blogs in the shed at home with the angle grinder in the normal light of a shed the colours are quite higher
faint straw would be about dark straw
Moneybox
Philip & Sandra Box
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My last session I thought ide start with a little exploration dig, thought ide strip inch by inch and goldmonster it to see if theres any fly poo.That's a lot of wear. Youre obviously digging too much gold
That pick of mine, made from an old rusty plough disk, in the above photo has done two full seasons, more than 1500 (small) nuggets. I wouldn't have any reason to sharpen the blade end because it's hardly changed.
Striping gravels with the spade end did the damage..
It only took 2 hrs, zero colour but the profile view revealed an interesting anomaly..
15 mins to back fill and rehab..
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