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condor22 said:
Just got back from a weeks bush camping on the Yorke Peninsula. Gave the solar panel on the 4x4 a workout for a week running the Engel at an average of 1.5 C.
It worked great, the voltage never went below 12.7 and I checked it morning noon n night, lol.

My only regret is that I didn't work as well as the 4by electrics. Had to come home a little early with a crook gut. But it highlights the benefit of towing a loo in the van. :)

I camped near Balgowan, no Optus phone signal, no Telstra internet, barely a Telstra phone signal and only with an external antenna. Couldn't even get a TV signal, so out came the Satking, otherwise I might have had a lot of reading, lol.

Worst part, no gold there, but it beats lockdown. :) I did detect a beach, but found nothing but rust !!!
Click to expand...

Sorry about the guts mate :8

That's great how the electrics worked out, I am thinking that maybe I should use less panels now baring in mind you do get lots of Sun Hours where as over here she only flashes her draws at me once a month, The past 2 days here I have had 27*c and not a cloud in sight So maybe I can get by with just 2x150w panels coz all 6 of them will take up too much room, I have a 120w foldup portable panel t charge the lithium packs with,

I had a long talk with a major battery service company guy today and he filled me in on a few home truths about batteries and brands, and my major concern is that unless you buy the best like Yuasu or MK then even if you buy batteries built on the same day with matching batch numbers doesn't mean :poop: because I bought another tester and this one created even more problems in telling me the cca rating of the battery as well as the actual cca's in the battery when you enter the Ah rating and hit the test button,

Further more when you see something like 80Ah/800cca on the sticker on a battery that should tell you that the those figures are BS, because an 800cca battery should be 110Ah and an 80Ah battery should be 580cca, So the two figures should not be on the same battery,

Most worrying is the fact that a top man in a battery company made the point of saying that they allow a 20% +/- margin of error which means a 110Ah battery could only have 88Ah or an 800cca battery could only have 700cca, Of coarse there is a chance the these figures could workout to be on the positive side but as I found out there is a 33% chance of getting a lemon,

Why is this important ?? well if you are trying to balance your battery bank to avoid some batteries doing all the work and others being lazy as to get a good service life from them then having them with close to matching specs and reserve capacities is one of the most important things to consider when buying a batch of batteries,
 
Here in Dunolly we have cool days, but mostly sunny.
The nights are cold getting down to 2C or thereabouts.
In these conditions I turn my fridge off at about 1800 and on again about 1000.
It usually is still running at 3C.
Then the 100w panel on the roof takes over again.
 
As previously mentioned - 1 x 110W Ridge Ryder panel, 1 x 10 A PWM controller, 1 x 100 AH AGM. I do have a 20 A BCDC1220 when driving.
Weather over there for the week was most days low to mid 20 C and down to 6-8 C overnight.

Engel ran non stop for 7 days, I used the Travel Buddy oven (@ 6 A) twice for an hour each and the Auxilliary output to power a Jabsco pump which I think is 4 or so amps.

Pump was to transfer water from 3 x 20 lt jerries to the van tank.

The big test will be when the border is open and I go prospecting. I'll have the 15 L Brass Monkey fridge in the rear of the 4by as a freezer as well as the Engel.
I have an old power meter -
1590045160_ms6172-digital.jpg

Fitted an Anderson each end and will plug it into the box I made between the Aux battery and the output fuse block. It will record Max/Min V, A, W and AH as well as present states.

As it will likely be winter time, I'm expecting somewhere between 25 and 50 % use of Aux capacity. As I generally drive short distances every day, sometimes further the BCDC and Solar should handle it. Stay tuned as I have no idea if that will be this year or not.

I think I might have another of those power meters in the shed, if so, I might hook that one up between the controller and the battery to check daily winter solar input as well. I'm happy that the new power box I made is plug n play, so putting the meters inline will be Anderson plug only, no re wiring needed. :)
 
Just had a thought, as I'm not driving much when home, I might put the BM fridge in the car at home with the meters anyway. That way I'll know before I go diggin holes if it works or mot. :)
 
condor22 said:
As previously mentioned - 1 x 110W Ridge Ryder panel, 1 x 10 A PWM controller, 1 x 100 AH AGM. I do have a 20 A BCDC1220 when driving.
Weather over there for the week was most days low to mid 20 C and down to 6-8 C overnight.

Engel ran non stop for 7 days, I used the Travel Buddy oven (@ 6 A) twice for an hour each and the Auxilliary output to power a Jabsco pump which I think is 4 or so amps.

Pump was to transfer water from 3 x 20 lt jerries to the van tank.

The big test will be when the border is open and I go prospecting. I'll have the 15 L Brass Monkey fridge in the rear of the 4by as a freezer as well as the Engel.
I have an old power meter -
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1932/1590045160_ms6172-digital.jpg
Fitted an Anderson each end and will plug it into the box I made between the Aux battery and the output fuse block. It will record Max/Min V, A, W and AH as well as present states.

As it will likely be winter time, I'm expecting somewhere between 25 and 50 % use of Aux capacity. As I generally drive short distances every day, sometimes further the BCDC and Solar should handle it. Stay tuned as I have no idea if that will be this year or not.

I think I might have another of those power meters in the shed, if so, I might hook that one up between the controller and the battery to check daily winter solar input as well. I'm happy that the new power box I made is plug n play, so putting the meters inline will be Anderson plug only, no re wiring needed. :)
Click to expand...

I fitted one of those kickass type meters to my battery box and I have another fitted with andersons that I can use when charging the Lithium packs when I run the 120w folding panel direct in to the two Dometic PLB 40 lithium packs and the panel also has a 10/20A PWM controller fitted to it for charging the big batteries or the Starting battery,

My power needs are minimal because all I need most of the power for is to run the big ARB, I have live 12v vehicle sockets which I will be replacing with the 2 pin lockable type,

The current weather here is 27.8*c and has been for the last 3 days and at night it has been around 20.5 to 23.1*c, and because the temps are so low I am seeing low power draws,
 
condor22 said:
Wow that's almost a heatwave for Pomland :)
Click to expand...

Yeah the Poms are stripping off the layers and I am still wearing a T shirt under a very thick flannelette Shirt, and Levi's. :perfect: :Y: :cool:
 
Had a think about the power meter testing of running both fridges. Found the second meter and fitted Anderson Plugs. Today was very very overcast and drizzle all day, so I didn't want to load everything at one time. Also I'm interested in which of my 2 fridges uses what AH in 2 modes, fridge or freezer.

Today, I got the Engel running at about 2 C, switched on the solar panel and fitted one meter on the Engel, the other on solar output (from the controller).
I'll run it for 24 hours to see what the panel puts in and what the Engel uses.

Then I'll crank the Engel up to full, check it's lowest freezing temp and run again for 24 hours. After that I'll do the same with the Brass Monkey at 2 C and full freeze.

The results should tell me which is more efficient at which mode and importantly what to expect in a combined use (which will be the 5th test)

As my Engel is only 30 lt and the BM 15 lt, I'm not fussed which is used as a fridge or freezer, but what combination gives the least power consumption. I should note, I also tow a van with a 128 lt (108 fridge - 20 freezer) so not short of space for :beer: :beer: :beer: n pizza space. :)

I'll have max/min V, A and W as well as AH in/out for both fridges in both modes. More importantly, how well my battery/solar copes. This might take a while as I need to pick similar weather and days when not driving to do a full 24 hours. Will Excel table the results.
 
condor22 said:
Had a think about the power meter testing of running both fridges. Found the second meter and fitted Anderson Plugs. Today was very very overcast and drizzle all day, so I didn't want to load everything at one time. Also I'm interested in which of my 2 fridges uses what AH in 2 modes, fridge or freezer.

Today, I got the Engel running at about 2 C, switched on the solar panel and fitted one meter on the Engel, the other on solar output (from the controller).
I'll run it for 24 hours to see what the panel puts in and what the Engel uses.

Then I'll crank the Engel up to full, check it's lowest freezing temp and run again for 24 hours. After that I'll do the same with the Brass Monkey at 2 C and full freeze.

The results should tell me which is more efficient at which mode and importantly what to expect in a combined use (which will be the 5th test)

As my Engel is only 30 lt and the BM 15 lt, I'm not fussed which is used as a fridge or freezer, but what combination gives the least power consumption. I should note, I also tow a van with a 128 lt (108 fridge - 20 freezer) so not short of space for :beer: :beer: :beer: n pizza space. :)

I'll have max/min V, A and W as well as AH in/out for both fridges in both modes. More importantly, how well my battery/solar copes. This might take a while as I need to pick similar weather and days when not driving to do a full 24 hours. Will Excel table the results.
Click to expand...

I did the same sort of test using the ARB 47L and the little Dometic CDF-18 and the result were not what I expected.
 
I'm kinda "expecting the unexpected" lol.

I know pretty well what the Engel does as it is currently set, but not balanced with a solar input. today was a top of 16 C, but it was 20-21 in the back of the 4x4. Which goes to show that even in crappy weather the car absorbs more heat than ambient. I know the Engel will use approx. 24 AH over 24 hours in this weather, what I don't know is how much of that is replaced by solar.

I do have to go out tomorrow, but thanks to my "plug n play" power box, I can disconnect the BCDC charger and leave solar on, which will effectively see the aux battery see no travel. :)
 
condor22 said:
I'm kinda "expecting the unexpected" lol.

I know pretty well what the Engel does as it is currently set, but not balanced with a solar input. today was a top of 16 C, but it was 20-21 in the back of the 4x4. Which goes to show that even in crappy weather the car absorbs more heat than ambient. I know the Engel will use approx. 24 AH over 24 hours in this weather, what I don't know is how much of that is replaced by solar.

I do have to go out tomorrow, but thanks to my "plug n play" power box, I can disconnect the BCDC charger and leave solar on, which will effectively see the aux battery see no travel. :)
Click to expand...

I will wait until you have posted your results before I posting anything,

I tested 3 of mine at around 8*c ambient and 14*c and 23/24*c @ 2*c and -12*c and -18*c using 3 different power sources, It took me over a month to complete doing it 24/7 because I let each fridge stabilize for 24 hours before starting the next test due to the Temp setting changes,

:Y:
 
Test 1 complete, Engel was running at 1.6 C, so a little lower than I normally run it. I should reiterate, my Engel is now 27 years old, it only has a control knob, no digital display or temperature set function other than adjusting the variable pot knob. I use a wireless gauge when running as a fridge, but I have now turned it up to max, so the transmitter batteries won't like the freeze temp. I've replaced it with a wired probe Engel gauge. Took about an hour to drop from 1.6 to -15.6 and still going down, so I'll run it overnight to stabilise on 240 VAC, then start the freezer consumption test in the morning for 24 hours.

Engel was empty during this test, but now has 5 frozen eski bricks, some sausage rolls and 4 mini pizzas in it to replicate actual use.

LEGEND

V = Present Volts, Vp = Max Volts Read, Vm = Min Volts Read, Ap = Max Amps Read, Ah = Amp Hours Used or delivered, Td = Fridge Internal Temp C, Amb Mx = In Car Temp, Amb Mn = In Car Temp, Wp = Max Watts Read, Wh = Watt Hours Delivered, NET = Net battery use AH, SOC = Aux Bat % BM PRO. (I'm using ambient in car temps not outside in weather)

1590211233_test_1.jpg


I think, given the low AH net use along with the voltage at the end of the test, the Aux Battery was in Float mode and therefore even though a net use of 2.78 AH is the reason the BM PRO shows the battery still at 100%.

Interesting that also given the low ambient temps the fridge used less than 10 AH. Equally given the crappy weather, I'm not surprised the panel only put in approx 7 AH.
Still, it's near 3/4 of the use.
 
condor22 said:
so the transmitter batteries won't like the freeze temp. I've replaced it with a wired probe Engel gauge.
Click to expand...

Condor, Run an Engel wireless temp recorder, the transmitter in the Engel has two AAA Alkaline batteries, receiver is in ute cab, have never had a problem running it on freeze. Old Engel like yours bought in 1983, I back off the knob slightly from max so the fridge does cycle, if wound up to the stop it runs continuously which is unnecessary in our instance.

Found this info about runing temperatures for AAA batteries;

AAA - Lithium batteries -40F (-40C) (37C) 100F

AAA - Alkaline batteries -4F (-20C) (37C) 100F
 
Thanks NJ. I checked the Engel just on dark and it was down at -20 and going constantly and did just as you said, turned it down a fraction till the thermostat cut out. I'll check the temp tomorrow.

My Wireless temp gauges are Ironman, they were cheap enough as I bought them at the Caravan Show a few years back, but they only give fridge and ambient temps. Whereas the wired Engel also gives max/min temps for fridge and ambient. I do have Lithium AAA batteries, but I'm saving them for when I go tripping next. (Once the bloody border opens, lol.)

I have the 4x4 backed up to the gates and a mains cable feeding the Engel 240 VAC overnight, so that the Aux battery is full before I run the Engel as a freezer for 24 hours. Putting the wired probe in it will give me more info. Perhaps when we pensioners get our next $750 "cash splash" in July I'll look to getting the Engel Wireless.

As an aside, I used Lithium last year in the transmitters and normal alkaline in the receivers. The Lithium lasted all year, being 2 x 8 week trips. I do remove the batteries when the van is not in use. They aren't cheap, but they work great at cold temps as you say.

I checked the weather on TV earlier, it got to a max of 17 here in Adelaide today, but as noted above it was 22 in the car and there was bugger all sun. On a 40 C outside day, I've seen 58 C in the car when it's locked up, so the hotter outside, the greater the increase inside. :)
 
FYI - I did a Google search, I could not find any reference to an Engel Wireless Thermometer.
I have both of these :-
1590247849_engel_therm.jpg
1590247466_tironman_thermo.jpg


I originally got the Engel (Black one with the wired probe). Reason I replaced with the Ironman (Green one) is that I did not like the idea of trapping the wire in the fridge seal in either the Engel or the van Thetford. As I mentioned, the good thing about the Engel is that it gives current fridge and ambient temps as well as max/min (until reset) for all temps as well. Whereas the Ironman doesn't store max/min only current temp. So I keep the Engel for testing and as spares.....

If there is an equiv. Engel "Wireless" out there please tell me. :)
 
condor22 said:
FYI - I did a Google search, I could not find any reference to an Engel Wireless Thermometer.
I have both of these :-
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1932/1590247849_engel_therm.jpg https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/1932/1590247466_tironman_thermo.jpg

I originally got the Engel (Black one with the wired probe). Reason I replaced with the Ironman (Green one) is that I did not like the idea of trapping the wire in the fridge seal in either the Engel or the van Thetford. As I mentioned, the good thing about the Engel is that it gives current fridge and ambient temps as well as max/min (until reset) for all temps as well. Whereas the Ironman doesn't store max/min only current temp. So I keep the Engel for testing and as spares.....

If there is an equiv. Engel "Wireless" out there please tell me. :)
Click to expand...

I bought 2 of these so I can test 4 areas in the fridge at a time or test 4 fridges at a time, They are pin point accurate and the best I have come across, and the price was real good too.

1590248219_my_thermo_s.jpg
 
NJ, I think they maybe a superseded item nowadays. With Engels now having a digital display they are no longer an item Engel would produce, it's not on their Aust. web site. So the only option is an aftermarket digital wireless display like the Ironman I have.

I guess the only way of getting one is if some business has one gathering dust on a shelf, lol.

It's a bit like the switch I replaced last year, I emailed or phoned around a dozen and a half Engel repairers in Vic, W.A. and S.A. before I found one (brand new). Manufacturers are only obliged to keep spares for around 10 years after production ceases. I started with the authorised repairers i.e. bigger businesses, then to the one man shows, which is where I eventually got it locally. :)

I guess having a digital display on the more modern fridges is handy, but it's also more to go wrong as well. Fixing mine in the shed was easy once I got the part, hopefully it'll go another 27 years..... Fixing the switch was, remove 4 screws, cutting 3 cable ties, a bit of jiggling to get the power supply out, unplug the loom, unpin the circuit board the switch is soldered on to and then the reverse to put it back together. I think it took about 20 minutes to do the job, in fact it took me longer to unshackle the fridge from the car and replace it than it did the fix, lol.

The other thing they changed which I think was a backward step is the lid. Mine has a slotted plate either side of the lid, which allows the lid to be removed easily. Current models have fixed hinges needing a screwdriver to take the lid off.

It's handy for me as the Engel is installed on top of the drawers, the lid can't open fully, so it needs to be held open with one hand to get a beer out with the other. OK for that, but when loading the fridge to start with, I can take the lid off and use both hands to sort the drinks n food. Being a chest type fridge, most of the cold stays where it is.
 

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