Minelab SD2100 tips, settings, questions

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PRLake,
Maybe you can find someone who could fit the early type pot, it was definitely a winner. My machine (new) used to drive me mad with the warbling until I sat down and persevered.
As already mentioned, my old, then new SD2100 did not have a stop on the pot and was able to settle it down to a steady hum.
 
How to tune your SD, per previously discussed instructions (compliments of Nightjar)
getting older & its a pain in the arrrrr knees squatting/kneeling down to tune the SD2100, so this frame helps.
The legs aren't glued, so it pulls apart & goes in a tent pole bag. The plastic box is the only 'chunk'..
This is still my prototype. Doesn't need much else (except someone previously mentioned adding a stubby holder :cool: )
I haven't found a better box for it yet.
1581735483_sd2100_on_stand_1.jpg
 
G'day

Found this article from Ismael Jones that I tried out some time back, a method to quieten down either the Sd2000 or Sd2100, it might be worth a try if all else fails, but ignore the instruction to send the unit to Minelab as I believe they don't touch these models anymore.

One question that I am always confronted with especially after doing a mod is that the detector seems noisier. One of
the major causes of this has generally been the toroid inside the detector on the coil leads from the coil socket. The
toroid is set by Minelabs when they manufacture the detector but unless they fastened the toroid it can slip up and down
on the wires. The toroid stops (or limits) electrical interference from the coil. It is also dependent on being in the proper
position on the wires to do this. Below is a photo of the toroid and it can also be orange in color.
As you can see this one has nothing holding it and it can move freely on its own!!Also ignore the other wires in this
picture as they are mods. The standard detector has only 3 wires;
Black, Red and Yellow
Here is a step by step procedure that we have found effective:
Firstly turn the detector off and unscrew the front plate (coil side obviously). gently pull it away from the detector and
locate the toroid on the back of the plate at the top behind the coil plug. It can either be held in place with silicone or
cable ties. If the latter cut them off (CAREFULLY) move the toroid towards the inside or down the cables towards the PCB.
If on a 2000 you need to put the plate back on and use at least one screw to hold in place, on a 2100 just push the plastic
front back in until closed no need for screws. Turn on the detector and see if this has eliminated the noise if not repeat
the procedure moving the toroid in either direction (up or down) until the detector is running with the least noise.
That's all there is to it. Most of the time this will eliminate most noise, hopefully. Remember this is just a tip and not the
only cause of noisy detectors. We have found in 90% of cases it fixes the problem. One thing I forgot to mention is that
this should be done in the field and not where you have any electrical interference (ie: near power lines). I cannot do it
here at my workshop due to too much electrical noise. So it is up to you the owner to do it. Of course you could always
send it to Minelab...
Hope this helps and happy hunting...

cheers

stayyerAU
 
Ded Driver said:
How to tune your SD, per previously discussed instructions (compliments of Nightjar)
getting older & its a pain in the arrrrr knees squatting/kneeling down to tune the SD2100, so this frame helps.

DD, The early instructions for the SD was to hold the machine at waist height, coil pointing in direction of EMI etc.
My method came about by placing machine (as already mentioned) on the ground and held steady. I think your spider legs would be unstable? Get down, get dirty and have a tree next to your position to pull yourself back up. :lol: :lol:
BTW, have upgraded through the years and have always tuned machines with them laying on the ground, coil postioned at 45 to ground.
 
Nightjar, the spider legs fame is actually very steady, not wobbly at all (about 600mm wide at the ground), & the whole unit is positioned pointing at loudest emi, coil adjusted to vertical, & the height is just below waist level, & so far is working well for me.
Additionally, because the legs are a push fit in the sockets, they can be rotated to accomodate uneven ground. They dont slip around, they are fairly snug.
 
G'day guys silly question with sd2100 which I purchased yesterday when light flashes red it's obviously going flat and needs a charge? I have it on charge now and the charger is lit green which indicates it's full charge? Possibly a faulty battery? I'm not sure cheers
 
Used the original 6V battery for a number of years and if my memory serves me the green light flashed until charged.
Would recommend you upgrade to 12V battery regulated to 7.3volts. Can't remember the unit name to enable this, no doubt someone will help. (Nenad)
 
Hi all im looking at buying a sd2100 for a first detector in wa for 800 are these worth a crack or to old and hard to use any info would be great thanks
 
I have a family member in WA still runs a 2100, and still finds gold from time to time, its a manual ground balance machine, so its a bit fiddly at times, and LOVES hot rocks, but for $800 i'd jump on it just for re-sale value alone..
 
Hi

just wondering if anyone can give me a bit of info on this old SD2100V2 (Blue Box) machine are they still worth using? do they handle golden trianle ground ok?
can you use all coils that are used on 4500 etc? are they good for a beginner will they pick up the small stuff with the right coil and operator?

any help much appreciated.
 
There are quite a few around that have been modded, so be careful unless you particularly want a modded one.

Lot of coils out there that suit SD/GP/GPX. Some coils will react better & differently than on the 4500 than on the lesser models, so it pays to do a bit of reading on coils to suit the type of ground you are frequenting.
 
Thanks Bob

still trying to work out which way to go can't afford a 4500 so trying to work out what machine is going give me the best chance find the gold if i walk over it.
 
I am looking at the Coiltek Elite Camo coils for my GP3500, given the many great results & depth with people revisiting old patches they thought were done.

Of course, it depends which detector you end up getting Steven that will also decide which coils you choose that suit that particular detector.

Thought of any of the GP range? Just depends on how many $$$ you are willing to part with, unless you get a great deal with great coils included.
 
I'm willing to part with $9500 for the 7000 but unfortunately the wife isn't.

I have seen a few recommend the coiltek elite coils and most YouTube clips seem to have them when they find good targets.
 
Hi Stevenj48,
I have an SD 2100 (V1 I think, green box), it's been modded by Woody a few years ago, I just had an upgrade on the mod done this year.

After the first mod I took it down a creek everybody else had been down many times, I had found a few sub grammars with the SDC 2300 I had given my wife the SDC 2300 to try and I went to recheck an area I had done pretty thoroughly this time with the modded SD 2100, I was using the 6 x 8 Saddie coil and to my surprise I pinged a 4 grammar, my biggest to date. The 4 grammar was well down below what the other detectors could get, the signal was almost sharp, I thought it was going to be trash.

I'd been over the area with the GPX 4500 and SDC 2300 with no result.. The older machines do punch deeper especially when modded and run quieter..
I have not tried out the SD 2100 since the latest Mod upgrade this year, though tests in the back yard are showing favourable results. Dave guarantees it will go deeper than a "Z". It dosnt seem to suffer as much from EMI.

I may consider selling the SD 2100 in the near future, I want to try stout in the field first (in a few weeks). PM me if your interested in this machine
 

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