Minelab SD2100 tips, settings, questions

Prospecting Australia

Help Support Prospecting Australia:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I used 12v li po 7400 I think ,they were hooked up to a 12v to 7.4 regulator ,but you may be able to use 7.4v li po .
I first used 12v 5400 but only would do 5 hours with the 7400 could do all day :Y:
 
Champions! thanks for that.

Whats the max voltage you can put through these is 7.4 all okay or will i need a regulator on it?

Im pretty good with a soldering iron so i dont think making a battery pack will be hard.

Thanks
 
old hand said:
I used 12v li po 7400 I think ,they were hooked up to a 12v to 7.4 regulator ,but you may be able to use 7.4v li po .
I first used 12v 5400 but only would do 5 hours with the 7400 could do all day :Y:
Click to expand...

Not sure why but i tried searching for key words like lipo, battery mod battery but didnt find any DIY posts.

so basically is it as easy as buying one of these. (will need to be higher mAH)
1561447296_lipo_battery.jpg


And just wiring a 4 pin GX16 connect and thats it? i mean its basically how the SLA battery would be wired in but will these being higher voltage need some sort of safety or voltage regulation.
 
If you want go lipo you'll probably want something around 5000mah at least. I'd probably be looking at Turnigy or another better known brand from a hobby shop or trusted eBay seller.

The 7.4v lipos will charge to 8.4v so you'll likely need a voltage regulator to get under 8v or a lipo smart charger that has Terminal Voltage Control(TVC) where the charger allows the user to change the end voltage. These chargers can be more expensive but it's one way you could control what voltage you are putting on the detector. You could set the charger to say 7.4-7.8v which would still give you about ~85-90%+ of the run time.

The SD2100 has a low voltage light but not sure what it's set at? You'd need something to check voltage &/or alert you when the lipo voltage gets to ~6v as they shouldn't be drained too much lower.
 
Okay cool thanks guys. I have a spare sla dome lid. Might look into buying an enclosure as wide as the lid to hide all the components.

7.4v liPo battery (6000mah) - $50
Adjustable voltage regulator (set to 7.3v) ($10)
lipo battery low voltage alarm ($5)
Enclosure $15
Second hand lipo charger ($30-$50)

Has anyone done this before or is it just easier to buy something already made?

Ive seen the sony battery type batteries for sale for $200-$300 but cant justify it when the battery and charger costs $50. Wire and connectors $20. Hahah sorry im an estimator at work and look at what things cost.

Thanks
 
As I said I used it on a GP extreme but 12v 7400mah ,regulated to 6.8 v I found it a good set up
charger was about $35 lipo alarm , I did not use a enclosure :Y:
 
MichoAndrew said:
Has anyone done this before or is it just easier to buy something already made?

Ive seen the sony battery type batteries for sale for $200-$300 but cant justify it when the battery and charger costs $50. Wire and connectors $20. Hahah sorry im an estimator at work and look at what things cost.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I've made my own 7.4v battery packs up but I stuck to Li ion cells as I already had some + chargers to suit etc. If I was going to do it again & start from scratch I'd definitely be looking at Lipo.
I have used a Lipo pack before but it was part of a purchased battery & wireless audio system.

Seen plenty of examples of people using lipo packs but mainly with the 7.4v on the GPX or QED which can both handle the max voltage of 8.4v & also both have inbuilt low voltage shutdown so no need for voltage regulators or LVC's.
Seeing as though you'll need to put in a regulator an 11.1v Lipo may be better as per old hand above? With a high voltage of 12.6v & low of 9v it would allow a constant/stable voltage to the detector of what you set (7.3v) for the full discharge life of the battery using a step down regulator? With the 7.4v battery with a high of 8.4v & low of 6v you would need a step up/step down regulator to maintain the output of 7.3v.
 
I make up Nugget Booster specific to the SD / GP series ..
you can message me if you like to know more ..

Geoff
 
mbasko said:
MichoAndrew said:
Has anyone done this before or is it just easier to buy something already made?

Ive seen the sony battery type batteries for sale for $200-$300 but cant justify it when the battery and charger costs $50. Wire and connectors $20. Hahah sorry im an estimator at work and look at what things cost.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I've made my own 7.4v battery packs up but I stuck to Li ion cells as I already had some + chargers to suit etc. If I was going to do it again & start from scratch I'd definitely be looking at Lipo.
I have used a Lipo pack before but it was part of a purchased battery & wireless audio system.

Seen plenty of examples of people using lipo packs but mainly with the 7.4v on the GPX or QED which can both handle the max voltage of 8.4v & also both have inbuilt low voltage shutdown so no need for voltage regulators or LVC's.
Seeing as though you'll need to put in a regulator an 11.1v Lipo may be better as per old hand above? With a high voltage of 12.6v & low of 9v it would allow a constant/stable voltage to the detector of what you set (7.3v) for the full discharge life of the battery using a step down regulator? With the 7.4v battery with a high of 8.4v & low of 6v you would need a step up/step down regulator to maintain the output of 7.3v.
Click to expand...
Spot on ^^^ :Y:
 
Nightjar said:
Morning AB,
You may have already read this method? Owned a SD2100 for 10 years and after I came up with this method the preferred coil was the Minelab 18" mono. Already mentioned, more than one disputed whether I could use the mono on the ground we were detecting. Once they had gone for a walk swinging my 2100 they certainly changed their view.
Here you go, the problem you explain will certainly be gone if you persevere with this. (Let me know how you go)

*****For those of you who still swing the 2100 the method below is tried and proven to get the best from your machine. (Came up with this method more than 20 years ago when the the SD210 was the new boy on the block.)

Tuning your Minelab SD 2100:) ****
Click to expand...

Will I have to tune the machine when I change coils?
 
PRLake said:
Nightjar said:
Morning AB,
You may have already read this method? Owned a SD2100 for 10 years and after I came up with this method the preferred coil was the Minelab 18" mono. Already mentioned, more than one disputed whether I could use the mono on the ground we were detecting. Once they had gone for a walk swinging my 2100 they certainly changed their view.
Here you go, the problem you explain will certainly be gone if you persevere with this. (Let me know how you go)

*****For those of you who still swing the 2100 the method below is tried and proven to get the best from your machine. (Came up with this method more than 20 years ago when the the SD210 was the new boy on the block.)

Tuning your Minelab SD 2100:) ****
Click to expand...

Will I have to tune the machine when I change coils?
Click to expand...
PRLake, different days, different coils, changing ground, sometimes you do, sometimes you don't.
If it starts warbling its usually only a little off.
Mine now has an external pot, & I have made a 2 part pvc stand to rest detectors in when changing coils & fiddling.
 
Nightjar said:
Morning AB,
Well I never, the manual (pge 10) does quote 15 turns and a "click", in all the 10 years I owned mine there was never a click. (And my hearing was pretty good when the 21 was released)
The best I can describe the warble to smooth without sounding ridiculous, is;
With machine on the ground, held steady, turn pot VERY slowly.
Rapid, whow, whow whow's will change to continuous uurmmmm.

https://www.minelab.com/__files/f/4759/Instruction Manual SD2100_Scan.pdf

Nenad, You have certainly had more involvement with Minelab than me, but I can assure you my 2100 ran VERY smooth for most of the time. Rarely did I ever resort to the DD coil, small and large Mono's only. As already mentioned more than one prospector I met out there rigged up with my machine as was amazed how smoothly it ran. So much so one even bet me a carton of beer. Sure enjoyed sipping that. :perfect: O:) :D
Click to expand...

My SD2100 has a definite wall, it does click at ten turns, but there is no difference in the warbling, I could not make contact with the pot so I took the face of and tried tuning that way but zero difference.
 
Ded Driver said:
AB it does sound unusual that you cant get a steady hum anywhere. My SD2100 is usually pretty good, although on odd occassions it warbles a bit.
Try suggestions as stated by Nighjar. that method works very well. Your tuning pot may be non-functional, so if the problem persists it might pay to get it looked at.
Im currently getting Mods done to to 'modernise & up-spec it' mine a bit anyway.
Click to expand...

My tuning pot has come slightly adrift and it doesn't make any difference when I pull the face off to access it. There is no change in warbling. the tuning pot Definitely has a stop.About ten turns from one end to other. Maybe broke, three questions

1) Who is doing your Mods to 'modernise & up-spec it'
2) How much $ and time?
3) Will it fix my machine?

My SD2100 is a gift from my brother in law. I've had it a week.
 

Similar threads

Nightjar
Minelab SD2100 - Tuning Method
Replies
0
Views
1K
Nightjar
Nightjar
S
Spreadsheets for Newbies... are any available to look at, and if so, where?
Replies
12
Views
2K
gulliver
G
gcause
  • Locked
The Great Moving Out Sale
Replies
3
Views
3K
gcause
gcause
L
Minelab 4000 tips and hints
Replies
2
Views
2K
mbasko
M
B
  • Locked
Doug Stone's personal Minelab SD2100
Replies
11
Views
8K
Borat70
B

Latest posts

Top