AuMan said:
downhalo said:
Well i fixed what could be fixed, and left it at that, told him to contact the guy... to me it looks like he got so far, then forgot to finish the job (or just didn't bother)
either way, dodgy work..
I suggested he contact the guy at detectormods.com
Ok so I take it that he got some back yarder to do it, not the guy who does them for Jack Lange. I would be interested to know who it is, pm me if you don't want to post it publicly.
downhalo said:
U17? LOL nope.. no idea.. the trick with the magic smoke is replacement parts wink and a JBC CD-2BB
Well the trick to replacement parts is to know what their part numbers are and what function they perform within the detector to know that you might need to replace that particular part. As for the JBC CD-2BB, well any decent temperature controlled soldering iron will do, whats important is the person driving it. You might also need some other soldering equipment when working with SMD components to prevent the pads from lifting off the board during component removal.
FYI the part U17(this is its refdes) is an rs232 interface.
Now to your frequency mod, when you switch to your other frequencys,
how long does the auto-tune take to complete?
How long for the audio reset to complete?
How long for the start up sound to complete?
What happens to the tone?
What happens when you flick your frequency switch from a higher frequency to a lower frequency?
What happens to the transmit and receive sample timings?
PS, I know all the answers to these questions
Nuggethunter, if you ever have any problems with your machine, please contact the person you bought it off and it will be rectified ASAP.
Regards, AuMan
Part numbers are only a problem if minelab have sanded them off, plus the white paint... I've got a number of the F1 units, so parts "for my own machine" isn't a problem.
303D rework station helps with that SMD stuff..
Decent temperature controlled soldering station, Yep hakko, Weller they're great.. Pads lift because idiots use force or higher temperatures to create thermal capacitance.
I've never had that problem with the JBC so i mention it.. My cheap ass Rhino tools soldering station does the job with the right tip, but compared to the JBC, its not worth the mention.
"Now to your frequency mod" which one? the one i adapted from the SD2000? that mod? the one from minelab mods?
I flip the switch, and it takes 2-3 seconds for the machine to calm its shite..
Audio reset? you're asking a question that can be answered by reading the manual.. (70 seconds)
Start up (10 seconds)
"what happens to the tone" ascending tone x3
"switching from 3mhz back tends to make the machine freak out a little.
"what happens to the transmit and receive sample timings?" wouldn't know, but would like to
And now, in knowing the answers to all the above yourself (i'm sure none of mine are correct
)
Now you seem to be on the attack, may i ask why?... I'm not providing "incorrect" or misleading information, I don't mod for money nor do i "sell my services"
I mod my own gear, its fun its a hobby.. You're killing the fun...
qldnuggytom, You are correct.. The time and money spent getting it exactly the way i want it, I would have been much better off buying the B&Z, but its a hobby I enjoy playing around..