Still damn cheap even though it might be a bit under powered. :clap: :Y:
Home Made Slant Cabber
- Thread starter xcvator
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I think I've figured out the water supply, keeping in mind it has to be portable and cheap. 1 bucket upside down with another 1 right way up on top of it full of water with 1 of these
($8-00) inserted near the bottom
Those work really well, I use them on my vertical flat lap. The one I have has the flat nozzle.
15mm copper drain soldered in,1st wet trial run today, everything seemed to be ok, 99% of the water was caught by the tray, but a fine mist flew around a bit, enough to get things pretty wet around you after an hour or so :/ I think a visit to "clarke rubber" is called for, might find something to make up some sort of "skirt" to catch the spray .
Even the expensive horizontal cabbers chuck water, welcome to the club 
Wait till a stone hits it, you'll get even more
Wait till a stone hits it, you'll get even more
Would something like this arranged as a skirt around the top help stop some of the "mist" ?
https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/coll...cts/31698-weather-strip-l-channel-30mm-x-30mm
If I can't reduce this mist I won't be able to use the cabber in the house every thing will just get too wet
https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/coll...cts/31698-weather-strip-l-channel-30mm-x-30mm
If I can't reduce this mist I won't be able to use the cabber in the house
every thing will just get too wet
Or you could try this: https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/coll...ber-pinchweld-with-top-bulb-small-13mm-x-10mm
Pinch part will sit over the rip then you have the protective bulb on top plus the internal fin the reduce water flying up from the bowl. In reality mate I don't think you'll ever stop the splash. When ever I cab I wear a butchers apron and always get wet.
Pinch part will sit over the rip then you have the protective bulb on top plus the internal fin the reduce water flying up from the bowl. In reality mate I don't think you'll ever stop the splash. When ever I cab I wear a butchers apron and always get wet.
Agreed. I have added cabbing to my list of favourite water sports.
Have a go at boulder opal... thatll throw mud in your eye.
You can find a bit of a balance where you deliver just the amount water you need to reduce splatter while keeping your wheel clean and wet.
Also my wife has just found out why I keep all my old tee shirts... rags.
Have a go at boulder opal... thatll throw mud in your eye.
You can find a bit of a balance where you deliver just the amount water you need to reduce splatter while keeping your wheel clean and wet.
Also my wife has just found out why I keep all my old tee shirts... rags.
Dihusky said:Even the expensive horizontal cabbers chuck water, welcome to the club
Maybe I should set up 1 of those clear laboratory cupboard things with arm holes
xcvator said:Dihusky said:Even the expensive horizontal cabbers chuck water, welcome to the club
Maybe I should set up 1 of those clear laboratory cupboard things with arm holes
I think it is time for a 'Man Cave'
Bolder Opal would have to be the most Dirtiest stuff to play with... Im sure, one of our past rentals still have the stained roof and walls in the garage from My lapidary...
LW....
LW....
shouldn't have sold my scuba gear then ?
Its Fun tho xcvator, The rewards far outweigh the Mess... :lol: I have seen a Plastic tent used for a cabbing set-up inside... Worked well, but looked horrible in the house...
LW...
Got these ready today
Tomorrow I'll glue the foam on these ( 8 of them, thanks Rock Rat :Y: )
And then I can glue these on
So my grit range will be 80,180,400,600,800,1200
This W'n'D was from the BGS, but this place has grits up to 7000
https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/wet-and-dry-sandpaper-sheets/
A friend of mine is an ex upholsterer and has some off cuts of soft leather that I can use for polishing.
So the question is, should I just go finer and finer with W'n'D or go for the leather after the 1200 grit sandpaper
and what should I use on the leather for polishing ?
Are there any really bad gaps between the grits ?
Yes, this is an interrogation
Tomorrow I'll glue the foam on these ( 8 of them, thanks Rock Rat :Y: )
And then I can glue these on
So my grit range will be 80,180,400,600,800,1200
This W'n'D was from the BGS, but this place has grits up to 7000
https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/wet-and-dry-sandpaper-sheets/
A friend of mine is an ex upholsterer and has some off cuts of soft leather that I can use for polishing.
So the question is, should I just go finer and finer with W'n'D or go for the leather after the 1200 grit sandpaper
and what should I use on the leather for polishing ?
Are there any really bad gaps between the grits ?
Yes, this is an interrogation
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hey Keith, just do one with the foam and paper first and try it out, could rip.
I'd put the paper straight onto the plastic disc, sand paper the disc first to give the glue some adhesion.
Not an expert, just the way i see it.
good luck
I'd put the paper straight onto the plastic disc, sand paper the disc first to give the glue some adhesion.
Not an expert, just the way i see it.
good luck
xcvator, more than enough to get you started. :Y: The grits are going to depend on the material you're working with, you will probably find you'll move to diamond frisbies on a magnetic backing fairly soon as these will work a lot quicker, plus you'll be looking for diamond grit for stages of pre-polishing on a softer backing to help you can produce a smooth surfaces instead of trying to polish out a series of little flats.
If you were using a drum system, the typical sequence would be 2 or three hard wheels to do your primary shaping before moving to 2 or 3 soft Nova wheels for final smoothing, pre-polishing and finally polish before finishing on cerium or tin oxide to achieve the high gloss.
This would be the typical arrangement for Agate, fossilised wood etc, opal as it is softer is a different sequence, or is for me.
Your next piece of equipment, you may already have one, is a wet diamond saw, thin sintered blade as they outlast plated. This is for tour primary shaping before you hit the laps. An inexpensive tile saw works well depending on the size of the material.
If you were using a drum system, the typical sequence would be 2 or three hard wheels to do your primary shaping before moving to 2 or 3 soft Nova wheels for final smoothing, pre-polishing and finally polish before finishing on cerium or tin oxide to achieve the high gloss.
This would be the typical arrangement for Agate, fossilised wood etc, opal as it is softer is a different sequence, or is for me.
Your next piece of equipment, you may already have one, is a wet diamond saw, thin sintered blade as they outlast plated. This is for tour primary shaping before you hit the laps. An inexpensive tile saw works well depending on the size of the material.
Any clues on what the thread is on this ? It just fits through a 12,7 mm hole in a washer but it doesn't fit, 1/2 inch whitworth or m 12
I should know, but to long ago now It looks like BSP, 3/8 BSP maybe. 1/2'' BSP for such a small pipe would probably be to big. So either 1/4 or 3/8 BSP I would recon.
This reminds me of work! haha.
Cheers
This reminds me of work! haha.
Cheers
Prooz said:
They are BSP, will fit any of the brass air fittings, look for a hose tail with a female BSP fitting, 3/8 Female BSP to 6mm hose, Super Cheap or any auto parts shop will have them
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