HELP PLEASE 2001 Nissan Pulsar n16

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golddiggerart said:
Remove car battery for 10 minutes reconnect and then start car...
yes we gave that a try but didnt work
i have a feeling its more then what we are thinking
thanks for your advice anyway
 
aussiefarmer said:
Cut the floor pans out and fred flinstone it , better for the enviroment plus free fittness.
lmao she wants to know where my grinder is
 
7.62marksman said:
B5MECH said:
tried that this morning even the indicators never flashed thanks for trying
If it didn't respond the key has dropped it's code or the lock electronics is faulty, if it was something else other than the key issue the fob would have communicated when you tried to program it, unless the battery is dead
 
I can't get the right info to give a order list to do a bypass but if the car is in it's last few years of life I'd aim to do a bypass on it if nissan fail after a second reprogram
I've done other vehicles mainly Ford's but not sure if it's a NATS or a NATS2 system without the factory wiring diagram
If you ring around your local auto electrics and ask them if they can bypass the system, some won't and will try to con you to repair the system but if you stress the fact that it is a POS not worth spending money on, someone will take it on
It's not a big job just a cut a few wires and solder
May be the best road to go down and forget the chipped key problem
 
The fob won't program until the vehicle is happy that the correct key (electronic) is in the ignition. From reading this, it's not. As it won't allow it to start. So not likely to allow a fob to be programmed either.

Five things need to be good before that car will start - the key, the reader, the immobilizer, the ECU and all the wiring in between. Assuming the battery is OK. Anyone of these can and does fail. When any of these parts are replaced it has to be married to the each of other components with a compatible scan tool.

You can not by pass this electronic key by soldering anything - unless it's an EEPROM or something similar.

Nissan did nothing wrong?
Nissan probably coded a key that was not coded to the car. The locksmith probably did not as they could not access the immobizer (car still would not start). You drove the car away from Nissan. The key was now coded. Job done. You just now know it's an intermittent fault.

Needs to go on a decent scan tool with a decent tech and possibly a scope. Just because you take it to Nissan does not mean they are smarter than the grease monkey down the road but on the same note does not mean they are 'chumps' either.
Automotive techs - you get what you pay for. I've spoken to one who was regularly making $800 an hour on labour - Anybody here own a V8 Falcon with long life plugs? :eek: :D

Not the response you wanted. But an honest that's the way it is post. There is unlikely to be a cheap/simple fix. Note - unlikely. Already at a key, a tow and a key code.
 
Wow someone has pulled the wool over your eyes Magoo, You have been feed a lot of bs, the bypass isn't just a cut and go but some vehicles is add relay
It is not a job I do for customers but for special people only, If your a customer I'll up sell parts not avoid selling parts and do a $60 bypass
I'll never make money doing s#@t like that
and 2001 is a basic system compared to the vehicles now is almost impossible and I stress the word ALMOST :lol: :lol: :lol:
Nothing is impossible but somethings are difficult
The longlife plugs in your ford are 110+ each and that's why it's a $900+ 20 minute job :D you wanted to own a car with 8 cyclinders :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Thank you both i think the down side is it started when picked up sooooooooo reaccuring fault its going to our local auto elect next week some local mech here have not got a good name and it does make it hard to get things done
Once again thank you for your help
PS people can nock off a new car without keys so this should have been an easy fix lmao
 
@BMECH5

Your posts are self explanatory to a professional of what your capabilities are. But understanding English????????? $800 labour. I'll leave it at that. By the way it's NATs II. Still feeling confident? :D :D :D :D :D

And no modern cars are not easily stolen now. Usually towed and EEPROMs hacked later or R&R required parts.
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I'm not the guy who pays someone else to fix my car you do :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Sorry if my emglich is't up to scratch Professor Magoo I use captial letters that are abbreviations that you would not be able to decipher
And that's why there is always easy money out there :lol: :lol: :lol:
And yes it is easy to steal a new car without a tow truck, there is guys that will hack it on the spot when you press the lock button on the fob :lol: :lol: :lol:
No key needed and bye bye car :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Dude. Calm down. You couldn't give correct advice on this one - we can't get it right all the time. Perhaps the N16 is worth keeping, being harder to crack. But if you want some material on diagnostics I'm happy to send it. Perhaps some of my articles.

The fob button is nothing to do with the immobilizer.
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: no one said the fob has anything to do with anything, diagnostics trick is if the fob can't be reprogrammed the key hasn't coded properly :rolleyes:
I think you've spent to much time playing google mechanic and should take a chill pill and have a nap
Everything you have said is wrong but don't worry there's always another day :lol: :lol: :lol:
Looked like you copied and pasted it from a forum :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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