Heart Attack!!!!!!!
- Thread starter NickThadik
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That's terrible. Sounds like he didn't want he job, and quoted an outrageous price, at which he would do it. I once had a mate who was a painter, and he said that he got every job he quoted. Quote was based on proper preparation, two coats etc, and with a decent margin for him. Most customers had previous quotes of an outrageous nature. He reckoned that if those blokes only got one in 10, they would still be doing well.
looks like ur getting screwed pretty hard but will depend on gauge of aluminum and if they use a CNC router. Most welding $100 ph, a sheet of 3mm 2400x 1200 of which you have used the majority is $200+ then you have cutting and bending. a good fabricator would that cutting, welding and folding in under and hour and theyd charge 1.5 hours.
go to a fabricator not a boat builder. they work on too high a margin.
go to a fabricator not a boat builder. they work on too high a margin.
Twapster
Peter
Tathradj said:
I tried the duraweld using an oxy and ok for one sided welding but melts if you need to weld both sides?
Just got my new AC tig so can now start practicing.
Other than just buying a Walbanker to make life easier, suggest pop rivets are fine if u don't want to weld, I made a brake to bend my sheet and yes about $80 for a 1.2 by 2.4 sheet of 15mm ally.
Also suggest an Ally tool box maker...there's one on Lane Cove Rd near Putney area Sydney if that helps.
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Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the input, I'm in no rush to be ripped off, so I will search around for a while and find prices so i can make the best decision.
People have been telling me different thicknesses to use, so I am a bit confused.. I want something sturdy but not a pain in the ass to lug around. What has everyone used?
Cheers guys, and thanks again.
People have been telling me different thicknesses to use, so I am a bit confused.. I want something sturdy but not a pain in the ass to lug around. What has everyone used?
Cheers guys, and thanks again.
I would not want to discourage you from making your own gear, but you can get a complete set up from Sluicy Gold Equipment for much less that that bloke was quoting for materials and labor for just the bottom assembly.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Sluicy-Gold-Equipments
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Sluicy-Gold-Equipments
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Thanks mate, just had a look... Nothing there the size that I want though..
I'm in no rush, I will continue searching and see what I can come up with.
I'm sure I will work it out.
I'm in no rush, I will continue searching and see what I can come up with.
I'm sure I will work it out.
Next1m8
Chris
Let me in on your plans Doug, I'm interested mate. Can't wait until you're down here!! Totally going to get lost up bush digging with you!
Twapster
Peter
NickThadik said:
I cant see anything under 15mm being too sturdy for a highbanker, anything over that may be too heavy.
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I was thinking 1.6mm thick as the 2.4m sluice box will be split into two parts.
Next1m8
Chris
12 months Doug :-0 that's ok it'll give me plenty of time to get more equipment
NickThadik said:
Youd never want to less than 1.6mm on anything other than a sinple river sluice. 1.6 will make sure it can be tied down and not crushed
Marked
Mark
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Used 2mm aluminium for my walbanker - had read of people using 1.6mm aluminium and regretting it. I would be thinking that 0.8 would be the right thickness for galvanised mild steel, not aluminium.
Having fallen with mine rock-hopping, I am glad I went 2mm; it survived with only a bit of a kink in the hopper.
Having fallen with mine rock-hopping, I am glad I went 2mm; it survived with only a bit of a kink in the hopper.
