B5MECH - I hope you are satisfied with what you bought. It is advertised as 5W there but 3W on other sites - anything around 4W would normally be pretty useless (too weak). UV light is the wavelength = UV-A is 400-315 nm, UV-B is 315-280 nm, UV-C is 280-100 nm wavelength. The torch you have bought is a total range of 395-410 nm, and 400-410 nm is not UV at all but visible light (so it is an unfiltered UV source that will make it less effective because of visible light interference). And you are only getting 395 - 400 nm in the UV range - a total of 5 nm for UV that ranges from 100-400 nm, so you are getting only one sixtieth of the range of UV light, I would be surprised if rubies would fluoresce at all with the torch, as most fluoresce around 300 nm. It is a bit like buying a small electronics kit solderng iron to do a welding job - probably won't do anything useful unless you are working with tinplate. That is why I posted the details on what is needed - but good luck. The fact that something like that works with, say, manganocalcite, does not mean it will necessarily work with, say, ruby or scheelite, as each minerasl has its own fluorescence range.
fluorescent gemstones
- Thread starter the duck
- Start date
Help Support Prospecting Australia:
B5MECH
Laurence Male
Thanks 
I didn't buy it to go running around the bush with it just a small uv light :/
I didn't buy it to go running around the bush with it just a small uv light :/
As I said before, My Collection of Fluorescent Minerals show up under the Torch that I have... I have, a few Zircons, 10 x Mangano Calcite all but 2 Glow,2 different types of Calcite, 3 different types of Fluorite, Ruby in Zoisite , Ruby in Fuschite and some things I can't remember... I only buy Minerals using my torch... That way I know that they will 'glow' in my Cave... All the Real Rubies I have seen at Gemshows, Glow under my torch and most, not All of other known Fluorescent minerals do too....... Its fun shining my torch at peoples stalls... Some know what im doing and say "Check this out" and others ask WHATS THAT? .... Not that I mind cause I always have a piece of Mangano Calcite to ''show' people and see their reaction to something new... ..
In the Field it is great for sitting down and going through Mullock heaps at night... It could be better for walking up creeks but it will do me.....
LoneWolf....
.... Not that I mind cause I always have a piece of Mangano Calcite to ''show' people and see their reaction to something new... ..In the Field it is great for sitting down and going through Mullock heaps at night... It could be better for walking up creeks but it will do me.....
LoneWolf....
The Cave....
Not a good Pic but ...
LoneWolf...
Not a good Pic but ...
LoneWolf...
I just checked and ruby is one of the few minerals that you might get a reasonable response from with that torch (ie some rubies, not all). I see some torches are 9W - that would be much better, and one with a range of say 400-300 nm would make about 70% of fluorescent minerals fluoresce, but with a range 400-280 nm almost any florescent mineral will fluoresce.
B5MECH - there are two different issues (I work with UV light):
(1) wattage - is it powerful enough? So yes, if you can use it inside in a perfectly dark room, close to the specimen, 4W will probably be adequate for some minerals that can flouresce in the short wavelength range that torch has.
(2) wavelength - will it fluoresce at all? This is important, for example, a ruby may fluoresce around 400 nm (few minerals will though) but a mineral like scheelite will not give any fluorescence whatsoever, no matter how high the wattage of your lamp. It has nothing to do with a weak or strong response, but with whether you get any response at all - not how well will it fluoresce, but CAN it flouresce AT ALL at that wavelength. Any particular mineral has to have light of a certain wavelength shining on it before it can fluoresce at all (fortunately it can be a bit of a range of wavelength), and the wavelength is different for different minerals. The problem is that people buy a torch and shine it on a particular mineral and it fluoresces and say "great, it works well" - but they don't realise that it is of limited range of wavelength that doesn't work for other minerals. Anyway, good luck.
In the list below, lw usually means in the range 400-315 nm, sw in the range 315-280 nm (and should only be used with protective goggles), The torch you got just barely scrapes into the edge of the lw range and not at all in the sw range.
Ultraviolet Fluorescence Chart
Abbreviations used in this chart:
lw long wavelength fluorescence
sw short wavelength fluorescence
The underlined section for some species and varieties (where applicable) indicates the general fluorescence encountered most often. Additional colors are also included. This does not mean, however, that all stones of a particular species or variety will show the fluorescence indicated for that stone.
FACTORS THAT MAY CAUSE DIFFERENCES, IN FLUORESCENCE:
Chemical impurities
Matrix and / or other foreign materials combined in or on this material.
Strain in the structure of the material
Isomorphous replacement
Please-note that it may be necessary to raise the stone up to the ultraviolet unit itself to obtain the required intensity of ultraviolet radiation necessary to produce the fluorescence indicated for a particular stone.
Amber None to yellowish green to orangey-yellow (lw) (lw works best). Also may fluoresce white, yellow, green or blue (lw), Fluorescence generally weaker under sw.
Beryl Emerald: (lw works best) none but may fluoresce weak orangey-red to weak red in very fine colors (lw and sw).
Oiled emerald: Oil shows yellowish to orangey-yellow(lw); weaker to non(sw). Oil will be noted in fractures.
Aquamarine: None
Blue Beryl: Green (sw).
Colorless: None to pale yellow or pink (lw and sw).
Golden: None.
Morganite: None to weak light red to violetish red (lw and sw).
Red: None
Synthetic Emerald Most synthetic emerald fluoresces a dull brick red (lw and sw) (lw works best). Some Gilsons fluoresce a weak to moderate orangey-red (lw and sw) to a moderate yellowish green (lw and sw). Gilson Group-III is inert.
Chalcedony All varieties: Generally inert (lw and sw); however, some may fluoresce a weak to intense yellowish green (lw and sw).
Chrysoberyl Alexandrite: None to weak red (lw and sw).
Yellow and greenish yellow: None to yellowish green (sw).
Other colors: Generally inert.
Coral White: None to weak to strong bluish white (lw and sw).
Light and dark shades of orange, red and pink: None to orange to pinkish orange (lw and sw).
Ox blood: None to dull deep red (lw and sw).
Corundum Burma ruby: Strong red (lw); moderate red (sw)
Ceylon ruby: Strong orange-red (lw); moderate orange- red (sw).
Siam ruby: Weak-red (lw); weak red to none (sw).
Pink sapphire: Strong orange-red (lw); weak orangey-red (sw).
Orange sapphire: None to strong orange-red (lw). Ceylong yellow sapphire: Moderate orange-red to
orange-yellow (lw); weak red to yellow-orange(sw). Green sapphire: None.
Ceylon blue sapphire: Moderate to strong orange to red (lw); weaker (sw).
Violet and alexandrite-like sapphire: None to moderate to strong red (lw); weaker (sw).
White sapphire: None to weak to strong orange to orange-red (lw and sw).
Brown sapphire : None to weak red (lw and sw). Black sapphire: None.
Colorless sapphire: Orange-red to red to orange (lw and sw).
Blue (dark) sapphire: None to moderate red (lw and sw).
Synthetic Corundum Synthetic ruby (flame fusion): Very strong orangey-red(lw); moderate to Strong orangey-red (sw).
Synthetic ruby (flux fusion): Strong orangey-red (strong, but not quite as strong as flame fusion or highly fluorescent natural material) (lw); orangey-red fluorescence generally stronger than natural, but some material may show zoned area of blue and /or bluish over tint on orangey-red fluorescence (sw).
Synthetic orange sapphire: Very weak orange to red (sw).
Synthetic yellow sapphire: Very weak red (sw).
Synthetic green sapphire: Weak orange (lw); dull brownish red (sw).
Synthetic blue sapphire: Weak to moderate chalky blue to yellowish green (sw).
Synthetic violet sapphire: Strong red (lw); greenish blue (sw).
Synthetic alexandrite-like sapphire: Moderate orange to red (lw and sw); may fluoresce red (lw), mottled blue (sw).
Synthetic colorless sapphire: None to weak bluish white (sw).
Synthetic brown sapphire: None to weak red (lw and sw).
Synthetic pink sapphire: Moderate to strong red (lw); pinkish violet (sw).
Diamond May fluoresce all colors with the exception of violet. General fluorescence is weak to strong blue (lw and sw).
Feldspar Albite: None to very weak brownish red (lw and sw).
Amazonite: None to weak yellowish green (lw). Oligoclase (sunstone): None to weak mottled white (lw and sw).
Transparent yellow orthoclase: None to weak reddish orange (lw and sw).
Orthoclase (moonstone): None to blue (lw); orange (sw). May fluoresce weak pink (lw and sw).
Transparent labradorite: None to weak blue (lw).
Garnet All species and varieties are inert with the exception of:
Transparent green grossluarite: None to moderate red (lw and sw).
Transparent colorless groosularite: None to weak orange or green (sw).
Ivory Weak to strong bluish white (lw and sw).
Jadeite Light green: None to weak white (lw).
Light yellow: None to weak green (lw).
White : None to weak yellow (lw).
Light violet: None to weak white (lw).
Some color-treated lavender: Weak to moderate orange (lw); weaker (sw).
Dark colors: Virtually inert.
Jet Inert.
Lapis Lazuli Generally inert; may fluoresce weak to moderate green or yellowish green (sw). The calcite inclusion may fluoresce pink (lw)
Malachite Inert
Nephite Inert
Opal Body color black or white: None to white to moderate pale blue, green or yellow (lw and sw); may phosphoresce.
Common opal or hyalite: None to strong green or yellowish green (lw and sw); may phosphoresce.
Fire opal: None to moderate greenish brown (lw and sw) ; may phosphoresce.
Pearl Natural: None to strong blue, yellow, green or pink (lw and sw).
Cultured: None to strong blue, yellow, green or pink (lw and sw).
Black pearl: Natural - none to strong red (lw); some may fluoresce light pink, mottled pink and white.
Dyed black: inert to weak white (sw).
Peridot Inert.
Quartz Green aventurine: None to weak grayish green (lw and sw).
Red dyed quartzite: Weak to strong red (lw and sw).
Rose quartz: None to weak red (lw and sw).
All other varieties: Virtually inert
Shell White: None to moderate blue to greenish white (lw and sw).
Tortoise shell: All but dark areas dull bluish green (lw and sw).
Spinel Red, orange and pink: None to weak red to orange-red (sw); weak to strong red and orange (lw).
Near colorless (rare): None to moderate orange to orange-red (lw).
All other colors: Virtually inert.
Synthetic Spinel Colorless: Moderate to strong chalky blue (sw); may fluoresce weak green (lw) and strong greenish blue (sw).
Light blue: Weak to moderate orange (lw); chalky blue (sw).
Medium blue: Strong red (lw); strong bluish white (sw).
Dark blue: Strong red (lw); strong mottled blue (sw).
Light green: Strong yellow (lw).
Dark green: Strong violetish red (lw); strong greenish white (sw).
Alexandrite like: Moderate dull red (lw and sw).
Yellowish green: Strong yellowish green (lw and sw).
Red: Strong red (lw).
Pink: Inert.
Topaz Colorless: None to weak yellow (lw).
Red: Weak brownish Yellow (lw).
Yellow: Weak orange yellow (lw).
Blue: None to moderate yellow (lw).
Brown: Weak orange-yellow (lw).
Pink: Moderate greenish white (sw).
Tourmaline Pink: None to very weak red (lw and sw).
All other colors: Virtually inert.
To quote one site that sums it up well:
"First things first. A "black light" will not work for most fluorescent minerals. Blacklights are long-wave UV. They are usually un-filtered. They are also cheap. Blacklights will make your laundry fluoresce, but they're not much good for most minerals. Do yourself a favor and take the $20 you were going to spend on a "blacklight" and put it toward a good mineral light. (A 4-watt, by the way, is not a good mineral light."
I just checked and the crash in the Australian dollar over the last few years has much more than doubled the price of lamps, so that something that is both sw and lw and with a filter (but only 4W and therefore needs complete darkness) is $180-200. So my advice is pretty useless for most people I guess (but then blacklight torches are mostly just as useless
e.g.
https://www.scientrific.com.au/product.php?p=1819
http://www.prospectors.com.au/p-10799-uvp-mini-4-watt-uv-lamp.aspx
B5MECH - there are two different issues (I work with UV light):
(1) wattage - is it powerful enough? So yes, if you can use it inside in a perfectly dark room, close to the specimen, 4W will probably be adequate for some minerals that can flouresce in the short wavelength range that torch has.
(2) wavelength - will it fluoresce at all? This is important, for example, a ruby may fluoresce around 400 nm (few minerals will though) but a mineral like scheelite will not give any fluorescence whatsoever, no matter how high the wattage of your lamp. It has nothing to do with a weak or strong response, but with whether you get any response at all - not how well will it fluoresce, but CAN it flouresce AT ALL at that wavelength. Any particular mineral has to have light of a certain wavelength shining on it before it can fluoresce at all (fortunately it can be a bit of a range of wavelength), and the wavelength is different for different minerals. The problem is that people buy a torch and shine it on a particular mineral and it fluoresces and say "great, it works well" - but they don't realise that it is of limited range of wavelength that doesn't work for other minerals. Anyway, good luck.
In the list below, lw usually means in the range 400-315 nm, sw in the range 315-280 nm (and should only be used with protective goggles), The torch you got just barely scrapes into the edge of the lw range and not at all in the sw range.
Ultraviolet Fluorescence Chart
Abbreviations used in this chart:
lw long wavelength fluorescence
sw short wavelength fluorescence
The underlined section for some species and varieties (where applicable) indicates the general fluorescence encountered most often. Additional colors are also included. This does not mean, however, that all stones of a particular species or variety will show the fluorescence indicated for that stone.
FACTORS THAT MAY CAUSE DIFFERENCES, IN FLUORESCENCE:
Chemical impurities
Matrix and / or other foreign materials combined in or on this material.
Strain in the structure of the material
Isomorphous replacement
Please-note that it may be necessary to raise the stone up to the ultraviolet unit itself to obtain the required intensity of ultraviolet radiation necessary to produce the fluorescence indicated for a particular stone.
Amber None to yellowish green to orangey-yellow (lw) (lw works best). Also may fluoresce white, yellow, green or blue (lw), Fluorescence generally weaker under sw.
Beryl Emerald: (lw works best) none but may fluoresce weak orangey-red to weak red in very fine colors (lw and sw).
Oiled emerald: Oil shows yellowish to orangey-yellow(lw); weaker to non(sw). Oil will be noted in fractures.
Aquamarine: None
Blue Beryl: Green (sw).
Colorless: None to pale yellow or pink (lw and sw).
Golden: None.
Morganite: None to weak light red to violetish red (lw and sw).
Red: None
Synthetic Emerald Most synthetic emerald fluoresces a dull brick red (lw and sw) (lw works best). Some Gilsons fluoresce a weak to moderate orangey-red (lw and sw) to a moderate yellowish green (lw and sw). Gilson Group-III is inert.
Chalcedony All varieties: Generally inert (lw and sw); however, some may fluoresce a weak to intense yellowish green (lw and sw).
Chrysoberyl Alexandrite: None to weak red (lw and sw).
Yellow and greenish yellow: None to yellowish green (sw).
Other colors: Generally inert.
Coral White: None to weak to strong bluish white (lw and sw).
Light and dark shades of orange, red and pink: None to orange to pinkish orange (lw and sw).
Ox blood: None to dull deep red (lw and sw).
Corundum Burma ruby: Strong red (lw); moderate red (sw)
Ceylon ruby: Strong orange-red (lw); moderate orange- red (sw).
Siam ruby: Weak-red (lw); weak red to none (sw).
Pink sapphire: Strong orange-red (lw); weak orangey-red (sw).
Orange sapphire: None to strong orange-red (lw). Ceylong yellow sapphire: Moderate orange-red to
orange-yellow (lw); weak red to yellow-orange(sw). Green sapphire: None.
Ceylon blue sapphire: Moderate to strong orange to red (lw); weaker (sw).
Violet and alexandrite-like sapphire: None to moderate to strong red (lw); weaker (sw).
White sapphire: None to weak to strong orange to orange-red (lw and sw).
Brown sapphire : None to weak red (lw and sw). Black sapphire: None.
Colorless sapphire: Orange-red to red to orange (lw and sw).
Blue (dark) sapphire: None to moderate red (lw and sw).
Synthetic Corundum Synthetic ruby (flame fusion): Very strong orangey-red(lw); moderate to Strong orangey-red (sw).
Synthetic ruby (flux fusion): Strong orangey-red (strong, but not quite as strong as flame fusion or highly fluorescent natural material) (lw); orangey-red fluorescence generally stronger than natural, but some material may show zoned area of blue and /or bluish over tint on orangey-red fluorescence (sw).
Synthetic orange sapphire: Very weak orange to red (sw).
Synthetic yellow sapphire: Very weak red (sw).
Synthetic green sapphire: Weak orange (lw); dull brownish red (sw).
Synthetic blue sapphire: Weak to moderate chalky blue to yellowish green (sw).
Synthetic violet sapphire: Strong red (lw); greenish blue (sw).
Synthetic alexandrite-like sapphire: Moderate orange to red (lw and sw); may fluoresce red (lw), mottled blue (sw).
Synthetic colorless sapphire: None to weak bluish white (sw).
Synthetic brown sapphire: None to weak red (lw and sw).
Synthetic pink sapphire: Moderate to strong red (lw); pinkish violet (sw).
Diamond May fluoresce all colors with the exception of violet. General fluorescence is weak to strong blue (lw and sw).
Feldspar Albite: None to very weak brownish red (lw and sw).
Amazonite: None to weak yellowish green (lw). Oligoclase (sunstone): None to weak mottled white (lw and sw).
Transparent yellow orthoclase: None to weak reddish orange (lw and sw).
Orthoclase (moonstone): None to blue (lw); orange (sw). May fluoresce weak pink (lw and sw).
Transparent labradorite: None to weak blue (lw).
Garnet All species and varieties are inert with the exception of:
Transparent green grossluarite: None to moderate red (lw and sw).
Transparent colorless groosularite: None to weak orange or green (sw).
Ivory Weak to strong bluish white (lw and sw).
Jadeite Light green: None to weak white (lw).
Light yellow: None to weak green (lw).
White : None to weak yellow (lw).
Light violet: None to weak white (lw).
Some color-treated lavender: Weak to moderate orange (lw); weaker (sw).
Dark colors: Virtually inert.
Jet Inert.
Lapis Lazuli Generally inert; may fluoresce weak to moderate green or yellowish green (sw). The calcite inclusion may fluoresce pink (lw)
Malachite Inert
Nephite Inert
Opal Body color black or white: None to white to moderate pale blue, green or yellow (lw and sw); may phosphoresce.
Common opal or hyalite: None to strong green or yellowish green (lw and sw); may phosphoresce.
Fire opal: None to moderate greenish brown (lw and sw) ; may phosphoresce.
Pearl Natural: None to strong blue, yellow, green or pink (lw and sw).
Cultured: None to strong blue, yellow, green or pink (lw and sw).
Black pearl: Natural - none to strong red (lw); some may fluoresce light pink, mottled pink and white.
Dyed black: inert to weak white (sw).
Peridot Inert.
Quartz Green aventurine: None to weak grayish green (lw and sw).
Red dyed quartzite: Weak to strong red (lw and sw).
Rose quartz: None to weak red (lw and sw).
All other varieties: Virtually inert
Shell White: None to moderate blue to greenish white (lw and sw).
Tortoise shell: All but dark areas dull bluish green (lw and sw).
Spinel Red, orange and pink: None to weak red to orange-red (sw); weak to strong red and orange (lw).
Near colorless (rare): None to moderate orange to orange-red (lw).
All other colors: Virtually inert.
Synthetic Spinel Colorless: Moderate to strong chalky blue (sw); may fluoresce weak green (lw) and strong greenish blue (sw).
Light blue: Weak to moderate orange (lw); chalky blue (sw).
Medium blue: Strong red (lw); strong bluish white (sw).
Dark blue: Strong red (lw); strong mottled blue (sw).
Light green: Strong yellow (lw).
Dark green: Strong violetish red (lw); strong greenish white (sw).
Alexandrite like: Moderate dull red (lw and sw).
Yellowish green: Strong yellowish green (lw and sw).
Red: Strong red (lw).
Pink: Inert.
Topaz Colorless: None to weak yellow (lw).
Red: Weak brownish Yellow (lw).
Yellow: Weak orange yellow (lw).
Blue: None to moderate yellow (lw).
Brown: Weak orange-yellow (lw).
Pink: Moderate greenish white (sw).
Tourmaline Pink: None to very weak red (lw and sw).
All other colors: Virtually inert.
To quote one site that sums it up well:
"First things first. A "black light" will not work for most fluorescent minerals. Blacklights are long-wave UV. They are usually un-filtered. They are also cheap. Blacklights will make your laundry fluoresce, but they're not much good for most minerals. Do yourself a favor and take the $20 you were going to spend on a "blacklight" and put it toward a good mineral light. (A 4-watt, by the way, is not a good mineral light."
I just checked and the crash in the Australian dollar over the last few years has much more than doubled the price of lamps, so that something that is both sw and lw and with a filter (but only 4W and therefore needs complete darkness) is $180-200. So my advice is pretty useless for most people I guess (but then blacklight torches are mostly just as useless
e.g.
https://www.scientrific.com.au/product.php?p=1819
http://www.prospectors.com.au/p-10799-uvp-mini-4-watt-uv-lamp.aspx
goldierocks said:
I did when I bought my torch, it was specifically for rubies and diamonds that flouresce. Though since giving it a go on some opal I've noticed mild flourescence as well.
http://www.ultraviolet-tools.com/ul...6-watt/4-watt-shortwave/longwave-uv-lamp.html
This one is $US62 including postage and a pair of their UV safety glasses
This one is $US62 including postage and a pair of their UV safety glasses
Most of the precious stuff I've tried it on has a bit of flourescence, plus fire opal from I think from South America and the amber nobbies from Lightning ridge my mate gave me show a bit also.
It is the problem with fluorescence - often the fluorescence is not caused by the elements that comprise the mineral, but by traces of other elements that it contains (eg in the sense that ruby and sapphire are corundum Al2O3, but what causes the fluorescence is the trace Cr that gives ruby its red colour (or Mn I think for blue sapphire). And of course precious opal doesn't have any colour at all (one is seeing refraction of light around the opal spheres as in a rainbow, as you probably know). I am not sure why so many fluoresce, and I wondered if it might be oil or something between the spheres - some are full of bacterial forms.
I am quite well aware of the spheres in opal and traces of Cr in ruby which give these gems their colour, it's also traces of iron in rubies from certain areas that stop them from flourescing. When I go out gold detecting with my mates from Lightning Ridge we sit around for hours after detecting talking about gemstones and minerals.
It's titanium and iron that make sapphires blue.
I'm not sure why so many opals flouresce either, it could very well be the bacteria that make it happen. Interesting theory that one. Maybe even some sort of mildly radioactive elememnts? Sort of like the way uranium glass flouresces?
It's titanium and iron that make sapphires blue.
I'm not sure why so many opals flouresce either, it could very well be the bacteria that make it happen. Interesting theory that one. Maybe even some sort of mildly radioactive elememnts? Sort of like the way uranium glass flouresces?
B5MECH
Laurence Male
Damn, got my torch today which has beat other chinese c#$p I'm waiting on
I miss understood the listing slightly :8 from looking at too many :lol: :lol:
Thought it came with a cradle for AAA's as well, but no needs a 18650 battery :lol: on the hunt
Sorry wishfull :8 it looks sweet but will get back with a on pic soon
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271717052714?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
New I should have got the kit with batt and charger
Maybe this one$15.95
I miss understood the listing slightly
:8 from looking at too many :lol: :lol: Thought it came with a cradle for AAA's as well, but no needs a 18650 battery
:lol: on the hunt Sorry wishfull :8 it looks sweet but will get back with a on pic soon
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271717052714?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
New I should have got the kit with batt and charger
Maybe this one$15.95
B5MECH
Laurence Male
Or I might just buy this which has the battery and AAA cage
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291856317167?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
fake x800 torch :lol: :lol: Aussie seller
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291856317167?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
fake x800 torch :lol: :lol: Aussie seller
LoneWolf said:Just search for Black light Torches on fleabay.. Prices vary but most are the same.. If You want UV, they are expensive... Black light torches aren't.... Mine has about 50 Leds and cost $10 from China..(second add on page is my type). but scroll down and you will find cheaper ones...Try and get one from Hong Kong, as anything out of China takes months to arrive now... Due to their Customs and the South China Sea crap..... Sorry im not good with link thingys...
They are also good for checking $50 notes and next time, take one to a Motel, to check you get ''Clean'' sheets too :lol:
LoneWolf....
Well I did order one of these in December I did not recieve it and today I got a message from eBay saying that I will be getting a full refund because the seller did not provide a verifiable tracking number. I kept getting messages to check the address and check the post office etc. I got pi#@!d off and contacted eBay. I have never had a problem before.
Sometimes this happens... ..This happened to me with some Rocks... took ages in the post, so I asked where they were ? Ebay stepped in and gave me a full refund..... About 10 weeks later guess what arrived in the post... My FREE rocks.. :lol: If you want I will ask my mate at Minerama if he has any at his stall ... or you could try another seller on Fleabay... This is why I always pay with Paypal... buyer protection no questions asked...
Sometimes they have issues dealing with PO Boxes too....
LoneWolf...
..This happened to me with some Rocks... took ages in the post, so I asked where they were ? Ebay stepped in and gave me a full refund..... About 10 weeks later guess what arrived in the post... My FREE rocks.. :lol: If you want I will ask my mate at Minerama if he has any at his stall ... or you could try another seller on Fleabay... This is why I always pay with Paypal... buyer protection no questions asked... Sometimes they have issues dealing with PO Boxes too....
LoneWolf...
Be careful about the paypal buyer protection. Last time we had a claim on a hard drive we did not recieve, we had to get a police report filed. Paypal denied out claim as the police notary did not have its phone number in the official stamped header. Somehow paypal expected us to ask the police station to change their stationary just for this claim.
This was a few years ago now so i hope they have changed how they deal with things. We were that disappointed at the time we quit ebay and paypal.
This was a few years ago now so i hope they have changed how they deal with things. We were that disappointed at the time we quit ebay and paypal.
Wishfull said:LoneWolf said:Just search for Black light Torches on fleabay.. Prices vary but most are the same.. If You want UV, they are expensive... Black light torches aren't.... Mine has about 50 Leds and cost $10 from China..(second add on page is my type). but scroll down and you will find cheaper ones...Try and get one from Hong Kong, as anything out of China takes months to arrive now... Due to their Customs and the South China Sea crap..... Sorry im not good with link thingys...
They are also good for checking $50 notes and next time, take one to a Motel, to check you get ''Clean'' sheets too :lol:
LoneWolf....
Well I did order one of these in December I did not recieve it and today I got a message from eBay saying that I will be getting a full refund because the seller did not provide a verifiable tracking number. I kept getting messages to check the address and check the post office etc. I got pi#@!d off and contacted eBay. I have never had a problem before.
I ordered one well before Xmas for the family to gift me along with some other stuff from one seller. Got a number of early messages offering a full refund as 'items should have been deliver by now'.
Obvious that they were never sent and although I received the PayPal refund, I suspect the revenue and refund trainsactions at the other end were relatives of Hoover or OMO.
Got two other packages from different sellers at a bargain price, so it hasn't put me off ......yet
Been doing a bit of research on the torches apparently the convoy s2+ with nichia uv led outshine (pardon the pun ) the more expensive models . You can buy them for $26 au from a mob called gearbest in the states. But you need to buy a 365nm visible light filter $6.50 of ebay for best results. Nitecore batteries and charger for it you can get of ebay for around $40(make sure it has a australian power plug).for under $80 you can get the lot .
) the more expensive models . You can buy them for $26 au from a mob called gearbest in the states. But you need to buy a 365nm visible light filter $6.50 of ebay for best results. Nitecore batteries and charger for it you can get of ebay for around $40(make sure it has a australian power plug).for under $80 you can get the lot .
Heatho said:I am quite well aware of the spheres in opal and traces of Cr in ruby which give these gems their colour, it's also traces of iron in rubies from certain areas that stop them from flourescing. When I go out gold detecting with my mates from Lightning Ridge we sit around for hours after detecting talking about gemstones and minerals.
It's titanium and iron that make sapphires blue.
I'm not sure why so many opals flouresce either, it could very well be the bacteria that make it happen. Interesting theory that one. Maybe even some sort of mildly radioactive elememnts? Sort of like the way uranium glass flouresces?
Isn't it Tungsten that makes blue and Iron makes them yellow and a mixture of the two will give you a green or a particoloured if not a homogeneous mix?
