Deep Cycle Battery brands, types, systems & installations

[Dog Ranger]

Don't know what your scenario is but probably safe to say that regardless of second battery location, one still benefits from an efficient charge controller?
That fact makes the whole system more efficient and safe guards your $300 plus battery also :Y:

 

[ctxkid]

Flood solder all connections

Here a screen shot of my new controller :heart:

 

[bicter]

Don't know what your scenario is but probably safe to say that regardless of second battery location, one still benefits from an efficient charge controller?
That fact makes the whole system more efficient and safe guards your $300 plus battery also :Y:

I have a different viewpoint.

In an under bonnet scenario, the DC-DC can be a bottle neck to charge current and adds unnecessary costs as well as introducing an extra failure point (Expensive Fuse) that puts the second battery at risk.
Additionally, it makes it more difficult to connect in parallel for starting when/if required. (Unless, of course, the DC-DC has a bypass mode built in).
This is based on the assumption that a full charge is better for battery longevity than having a regulated voltage applied to the battery and not necessarily achieving full charge with stop/start or short trip driving.
Use of a DC-DC can be justified when the second battery has a charge profile unsuited to paralleling the start battery or other requirements demand it, such as if an unregulated solar panel is required to keep the 2nd battery charged.

There are some very good salesmen out there.

There is no one size fits all design for auxiliary batteries.

 

[bicter]

Flood solder all connections

Or crimp to the design pressure ensuring the correct cable size for the connector and the correct crimp tool is used.

 

[Jaros]

I still prefer to solder electrical connections--pure and simple -like the oil spray. erfect:

 

[Dog Ranger]

Don't know what your scenario is but probably safe to say that regardless of second battery location, one still benefits from an efficient charge controller?
That fact makes the whole system more efficient and safe guards your $300 plus battery also :Y:

I have a different viewpoint.

In an under bonnet scenario, the DC-DC can be a bottle neck to charge current and adds unnecessary costs as well as introducing an extra failure point (Expensive Fuse) that puts the second battery at risk.
Additionally, it makes it more difficult to connect in parallel for starting when/if required. (Unless, of course, the DC-DC has a bypass mode built in).
This is based on the assumption that a full charge is better for battery longevity than having a regulated voltage applied to the battery and not necessarily achieving full charge with stop/start or short trip driving.
Use of a DC-DC can be justified when the second battery has a charge profile unsuited to paralleling the start battery or other requirements demand it, such as if an unregulated solar panel is required to keep the 2nd battery charged.

There are some very good salesmen out there.

There is no one size fits all design for auxiliary batteries.

No argument here ? As said without knowing your set up one can only generalize?
Thanks for the specifics on your set up and it's requirements

 

[ctxkid]

Flood solder all connections

Or crimp to the design pressure ensuring the correct cable size for the connector and the correct crimp tool is used.

i have seen to many poor crimped connections :awful:

i'm with Jaros solder rules ower: erfect:

an hey i like the smell of solder layful:

 

[Dog Ranger]

Flood solder all connections

Or crimp to the design pressure ensuring the correct cable size for the connector and the correct crimp tool is used.

i have seen to many poor crimped connections :awful:

i'm with Jaros solder rules ower: erfect:

an hey i like the smell of solder layful:

Have to go with the solder over crimped :Y:
Especially if vehicle sees any salt environment
One dunking in sea water and crimps are toast

 

[ctxkid]

Use of a DC-DC can be justified when the second battery has a charge profile unsuited to paralleling the start battery or other requirements demand it, such as if an unregulated solar panel is required to keep the 2nd battery charged

paralleling the start battery is great for battery sales :Y: :clap:

 

[Ded Driver]

update: Im very happy with my system so far. Lead Crystal battery + Projecta 45A DC-DC charge controller + 100W solar panel
Im finding the solar panel more than covers my fridge on sunny days, and tops up the battery. I have a dual voltmeter on the circuit shows me battery & solar input.
I have a manual circuit breaker under the bonnet between the 2 batteries (for alternator charging), & i flick this in once a week or so to ensure ther battery gets a full current top-up as required. Im still procrastinating on whether or not to install the solenoid that I have .... I like manual operation on most stuff, plus still need a breaker/fuse anyway.
An interesting point on the LC battery ... my electronic diagnostic unit (analyses battery & alternator charging, & has proven correct on many occassions now) cannot analyse the Lead Crystal Battery, I assume due its different chemical makeup.

Given your running a DC D.C. unit any specific reason for manually disconnection from alternator? Just curious?

struth, hard to keep up with the string of comments running here last couple of days.
Dog Ranger, the disconnect isnt essential, but most of the time it is uneccesary to be drawing from the alternator, as the solar panel will catch up with demand over a day, & this saves wear on the alternator (plus a microscopic amount of fuel). & given the amount of kms i do & a lot of night driving with a lot of light, I do wear alternators out!
As to other queries/comments about solar voltage, I did my research & checked that my solar panel max V (23V) is less than what the IDC45 accepts (28V).
The IDC45 has a separate solar input with mppt control. It is mounted in the back next to the aux battery. To minimise voltage drop I have a 175A cable running from front to rear that only ever sees a max ~45A that the IDC pulls.

 

[bicter]

Flood solder all connections

Or crimp to the design pressure ensuring the correct cable size for the connector and the correct crimp tool is used.

i have seen to many poor crimped connections :awful:

i'm with Jaros solder rules ower: erfect:

an hey i like the smell of solder layful:

No argument with me on soldering. Trained to NASA spec in soldering but that was long long ago.

My comment was regarding the statement in the article Jaros posted where the author stated "crimp and solder"
It should have been "either/or" not "and".

My preference is to solder over crimp as it is too difficult to get the correct matching of tool, cable and crimp pin for small quantities.

Crimps do have their place in wiring provided they have been done correctly.

With regard to crimps in salt environment, I think that if a crimped DC connection is having problems within a salt environment, every connector used in that car is going to have the same issue... or am I missing something?

 

[Rockhunter62]

"No argument with me on soldering. Trained to NASA spec in soldering but that was long long ago."

Not ex RAAF are you bicter? Same here.

Cheers

Doug

 

[condor22]

Yup, ask any RAAF Instrument Fitter how they terminate wires in pins n sockets. We just drive ours down the road at 100kph, their wiring travels a "little" faster a "little" higher and "little" more temperature variation

Amazing what can be learned standing behind one of those guys......

 

[bicter]

"No argument with me on soldering. Trained to NASA spec in soldering but that was long long ago."

Not ex RAAF are you bicter? Same here.

Cheers

Doug

Yep, saw the light and got out after 6 years in '81 as a RadtechG but stayed in the aviation world for the next 35 years. Spent most of my time between Melbourne and Darwin.

 

[Dog Ranger]

With regard to crimps in salt environment, I think that if a crimped DC connection is having problems within a salt environment, every connector used in that car is going to have the same issue... or am I missing something?

In my limited experience one has found not all vehicle wiring has the same exposure to the element's?
As an example a connection behind the dash and an under bonnet connection due to this live in different worlds hey ?
One you could call a friendly environment the other being harsh
Different experience leads to differing opinions . Probably none right or wrong just do according to suit ones needs.
Happy Oz day

 

[ctxkid]

the figures i agree with , good read erfect:

https://www.energymatters.com.au/components/battery-voltage-discharge/

 

[HeadsUp]

Solar panels for the most labeled as having a 21v open circuit voltage

Chinese manufacturing is like a box of chocolates.

Two 200 watt panels that look identical tested in the same sunlight , first one is 19.5 Volts.

this one was measuring 30.6 volts when new but when i put a voltmeter on it just now i discovered 5 damaged segments from the hail storm in December so its only putting out 25.4 VDC now ( despite the warranty saying hail proof ) 8.(

 

[ctxkid]

Chinese manufacturing is like a box of chocolates.

sure is :Y:

my two fixed panel were 69 bucks each

price makes up for the inefficiency i suppose :Y:

 

[Occasional_panner]

Solar panels for the most labeled as having a 21v open circuit voltage

Chinese manufacturing is like a box of chocolates.

Two 200 watt panels that look identical tested in the same sunlight , first one is 19.5 Volts.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/img/member-images/414/1548485908_ddddddddddddddd.jpg

this one was measuring 30.6 volts when new but when i put a voltmeter on it just now i discovered 5 damaged segments from the hail storm in December so its only putting out 25.4 VDC now ( despite the warranty saying hail proof ) 8.(

https://www.prospectingaustralia.co...ges/414/1548486100_rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.jpg

Just curious mate, how did a hail storm damage the panel without breaking the glass?

Edit, just noticed your panels are the lightweight flexible type(no glass). I have two but rarely use them.

 

[Redfin]

RR, correct me if I am wrong, but I had the impression that you were incapacitated atm.
By all means do your research, but the industry is moving ahead that quickly, that what is good now may not be so in 12 months time.
Stockpiling for the future is not a good idea where 12v management, storage and solar is concerned.