DEEP CYCLE BATTERIES and BUSH POWER
- Thread starter condor22
- Start date
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A bloke by the name of Les CHRISTE invented the CHRISTIE generator, a small 4 stroke engine driving an alternator that has the electronics tweaked to be able to charge a flat battery in about an hour, and without causing damage to the battery. Les is an experience 4wd off road camper and invent the charger to overcome those flat battery woes. My in-depth conversation with Les on battery charging was an educational experience. the voltage regulators on alternator allow a high charge rate but as an electronic gadget called a regular it does that regulates the charge back to a trickle after a short period therefore adding to the length of time to fully regharge a flat battery , time for that process is 12 to 14 hours , this is the reason why many inexperienced campers end up with a flat battery after 4 or 5 days out on their trip.
Ok, well I will just use my 240 /12 volt genie, but .... here's the catch, it operates like the alternator regulator, so my previous theory's on charging is now a shot duck. There is the issue of voltage and amperage involved in charging batteries but that is another in-depth discussion.
Ended up buying a used Christie generator and have not had a problem since,,,, it does charge a flat battery in an hour, no over charging or hot distorted plates, used many time to charge the flat battery on the old farm truck , also it can be used to run camplights,,, the 4 stroke honda motor is economical and quiet,,,,, large capacity solar panels are ok ,, but ,, you are trusting sunny skies for trouble free charging and according to Jay Cars book on solar,,, there is a short peak time during the day for optimum solar panel output .
my opinions may be challenged but I write from experience and hope this info helps those new to bush camping
Ok, well I will just use my 240 /12 volt genie, but .... here's the catch, it operates like the alternator regulator, so my previous theory's on charging is now a shot duck. There is the issue of voltage and amperage involved in charging batteries but that is another in-depth discussion.
Ended up buying a used Christie generator and have not had a problem since,,,, it does charge a flat battery in an hour, no over charging or hot distorted plates, used many time to charge the flat battery on the old farm truck , also it can be used to run camplights,,, the 4 stroke honda motor is economical and quiet,,,,, large capacity solar panels are ok ,, but ,, you are trusting sunny skies for trouble free charging and according to Jay Cars book on solar,,, there is a short peak time during the day for optimum solar panel output .
my opinions may be challenged but I write from experience and hope this info helps those new to bush camping
condor22
Mike
The DC output of a generator including Honda, is not a proper battery charger, it is a DC power supply. It will give some charge, but is not ideal.
A 240VAC smart charger does not draw the same amps that it outputs. i.e. a 35A Projecta smart charger will output up to 35A @ 12VDC nominal, but only draws up to 570W @ 240VAC or about 2.4A. So a 1kVA genny will be handle that load.
The output voltage of a Honda is pure sine wave and is relatively stable when running, both 240VAC and 12 VDC outputs. The only time there is a spike or drop off is if it's running and runs out of fuel. When you believe you need to refuel, turn off all loads, switch off the genny, unplug the 240VAC lead and refuel. The reverse when restarting.
There are a number of factors affecting how you charge a battery or bank of batteries, in my opinion the first is how much your daily use is and coupled with that how often you charge.
Although most devices have a 240VAC charging capability, I've found that most don't need an inverter to charge. I charge my mobiles, wireless detector gear, Hema, WiFi modem and USB power bank all from USB 5VDC sockets powered from the van 12VDC or 4x4 AUX systems. From direct 12VDC (same sources) I charge my GPX and SDC batteries, 3.7Li ion torch batteries, handheld LED light and my 19VDC laptop. This always uses less battery than inverting.
The only things needing a 240VAC charge are a movie cam and digital camera and they both work from a 150W inverter again powered from the same 12VDC source.
The DC rechargeable chainsaw and drill get the genny, but they are very infrequent. My 200W solar will replace 40AH even on overcast days, but there is nothing worse than running out or too low on battery, so I always carry the genny as a backup.
A 240VAC smart charger does not draw the same amps that it outputs. i.e. a 35A Projecta smart charger will output up to 35A @ 12VDC nominal, but only draws up to 570W @ 240VAC or about 2.4A. So a 1kVA genny will be handle that load.
The output voltage of a Honda is pure sine wave and is relatively stable when running, both 240VAC and 12 VDC outputs. The only time there is a spike or drop off is if it's running and runs out of fuel. When you believe you need to refuel, turn off all loads, switch off the genny, unplug the 240VAC lead and refuel. The reverse when restarting.
There are a number of factors affecting how you charge a battery or bank of batteries, in my opinion the first is how much your daily use is and coupled with that how often you charge.
Although most devices have a 240VAC charging capability, I've found that most don't need an inverter to charge. I charge my mobiles, wireless detector gear, Hema, WiFi modem and USB power bank all from USB 5VDC sockets powered from the van 12VDC or 4x4 AUX systems. From direct 12VDC (same sources) I charge my GPX and SDC batteries, 3.7Li ion torch batteries, handheld LED light and my 19VDC laptop. This always uses less battery than inverting.
The only things needing a 240VAC charge are a movie cam and digital camera and they both work from a 150W inverter again powered from the same 12VDC source.
The DC rechargeable chainsaw and drill get the genny, but they are very infrequent. My 200W solar will replace 40AH even on overcast days, but there is nothing worse than running out or too low on battery, so I always carry the genny as a backup.
Condor's bush power, everything covered.
condor22
Mike
Jaros said:
Thanks Jaros, back from VIC, out of quarantine a week or so now all good. I've just finished rewiring my caravan. Not the lights etc, but the van battery area.
As I mentioned in other posts, my van was fitted with a power supply/charger that was crap, it also distributed 12 V thru the van. It was not a good charger, (single stage 13.8 V) so I installed a Projecta 15 A, as, at the time, it was what I could afford. However, it left the OEM side powered by the power supply when on mains and the add ons (diesel heater etc) from the battery. In my opinion not the best, as when the Projecta charged it very quickly went back into Absorption mode at 14.4 V. Even in float it ran at 13.8 V.
What most don't know is that an AGM is still gassing off at that voltage (13.8). The cutoff is approx 13.1 volts and most chargers don't go that low. So I changed tac.
I decided to run everything to the battery via a 12 port fuse block. The Omegalec power supply and the Projecta 15 A got ripped out. I've bought a Voltech BC1230-P
30 A charger with remote control. It's AGM float profile is set to 13.3 V and if the charge load is < 5 amps for 72 hours it will drop the float voltage by 4% to lower than 13 volts, so no gassing when in storage in the driveway. (4% lower is approx 12.8 V). It also goes through a "quick" full charging cycle every 21 days, which helps prevent electrolyte separation and maintain plate condition.
My battery is a 130 AH and I keep charging to between 10 & 20% of capacity, = 13 to 26 amps. The Voltech has an adjustable output of from 10 to 100%, so I've set mine to 70% = 21 amps. (a bit over 16% which is mid range.) I did the mods in such a way that I can replace the OEM setup and remove my mods, so this will be the last charger I need to buy.
BTW battery is now 5 years old, still holds 12.9 volts at rest, so all good.
When I'm bush camping on battery, my Victron Solar charges the battery and on the occasions I use the Honda, I turn them off and let the Voltech take over, all automatically.
condor22
Mike
As an aside, when I was in VIC recently, a couple of mates came to the area I camped. They both had major battery issues in their vans.
One had a 12 month old 100 AH which went flat after 2 days with portable panel charging, wasn't holding voltage. He didn't want to hear from me, lol. So, he went into Bendigo, came back with a LioN 80 AH @ $1,400 and said the "guy" told him his solar controller and 240 VAC C Tek charger would be ok to do the job. Long story short, 2 days later a flat LioN. I said nothing.....
The other also had a 100 AH but only 2 months old, same story, flat after 2 days use, again portable panel charging. His answer, he rang his wife to buy a new battery and bring it out. It was an 80 AH and using a couple of leads he paralleled it to the stuffed 100 AH. Same result, next morning 2 flat batteries. and again I stayed out of it.
Mixing old batteries (or buggered ones) with new, a no-no.
Charging LioN with an AGM profile, a no-no.
Ignoring my advice or help, no comment.........
I sat there with one 130 AH 5 year old AGM, running a diesel heater from 4 pm to 9 am next day, watching TV for 4-5 hours and or laptop use for 5 weeks. Never used more than 26% of capacity. In fact from what I could gather, my usage was the same as theirs combined.
For my money, their only 2 questions should have been, What am I doing wrong? or, What is Condor doing right? A. - neither had any way of managing their system and what they used was not up to the job expected.
I like the old saying, You can lead a horse to water....... etc.
One had a 12 month old 100 AH which went flat after 2 days with portable panel charging, wasn't holding voltage. He didn't want to hear from me, lol. So, he went into Bendigo, came back with a LioN 80 AH @ $1,400 and said the "guy" told him his solar controller and 240 VAC C Tek charger would be ok to do the job. Long story short, 2 days later a flat LioN. I said nothing.....
The other also had a 100 AH but only 2 months old, same story, flat after 2 days use, again portable panel charging. His answer, he rang his wife to buy a new battery and bring it out. It was an 80 AH and using a couple of leads he paralleled it to the stuffed 100 AH. Same result, next morning 2 flat batteries. and again I stayed out of it.
Mixing old batteries (or buggered ones) with new, a no-no.
Charging LioN with an AGM profile, a no-no.
Ignoring my advice or help, no comment.........
I sat there with one 130 AH 5 year old AGM, running a diesel heater from 4 pm to 9 am next day, watching TV for 4-5 hours and or laptop use for 5 weeks. Never used more than 26% of capacity. In fact from what I could gather, my usage was the same as theirs combined.
For my money, their only 2 questions should have been, What am I doing wrong? or, What is Condor doing right? A. - neither had any way of managing their system and what they used was not up to the job expected.
I like the old saying, You can lead a horse to water....... etc.
condor22
Mike
Finally got the Wiring Diag done of my van setup for anyone interested.
Notes:-
1. Solar panels have individual circuit breakers, a. to protect the circuit, b. to isolate one panel if there is a fault giving at least something and c. to switch them off when charging from another source.
2. The 240 VAC charger is new - Voltech BC1230-P 30 amp. It is set to 70% output for the size battery and has a remote control (not drawn).
3. The battery isolator switch is a 20 amp toggle and will isolate all loads. Chosen as the load never exceeds about 12 amps at any one time and only when the diesel heater glowpin operated for about 2 minutes.
4. There is an Anderson plug connection in the battery compartment that runs 12 VDC from vehicle directly to the 3 way fridge. When camped and the fridge is on LPG, this can be unplugged and then plugged into the Redarc BCDC1220 allowing car to van battery charging. Rarely used, but there are places that don't allow generator use and on really bad weather for several days, the BCDC can top up the van battery. (another charging option)
Before this mod, there was a mix, of when on 240 VAC, items running from mains and others from battery. Now everything load wise runs from battery. The transformer and the Projecta 15 amp charger and transformer have been removed. All circuits now have appropriate fusing.
The Voltech remote gives me charging volts and current at a glance and charging mode, i.e. Boost, Absorption, Float. The BM PRO gives the battery state of charge when off grid.
Existing holes for switches and the bar graph voltmeter were used for the new setup without needing to damage or alter the van, adding a digital voltmeter and an extra 12 v to 5 v USB x 2 outlet.
Notes:-
1. Solar panels have individual circuit breakers, a. to protect the circuit, b. to isolate one panel if there is a fault giving at least something and c. to switch them off when charging from another source.
2. The 240 VAC charger is new - Voltech BC1230-P 30 amp. It is set to 70% output for the size battery and has a remote control (not drawn).
3. The battery isolator switch is a 20 amp toggle and will isolate all loads. Chosen as the load never exceeds about 12 amps at any one time and only when the diesel heater glowpin operated for about 2 minutes.
4. There is an Anderson plug connection in the battery compartment that runs 12 VDC from vehicle directly to the 3 way fridge. When camped and the fridge is on LPG, this can be unplugged and then plugged into the Redarc BCDC1220 allowing car to van battery charging. Rarely used, but there are places that don't allow generator use and on really bad weather for several days, the BCDC can top up the van battery. (another charging option)
Before this mod, there was a mix, of when on 240 VAC, items running from mains and others from battery. Now everything load wise runs from battery. The transformer and the Projecta 15 amp charger and transformer have been removed. All circuits now have appropriate fusing.
The Voltech remote gives me charging volts and current at a glance and charging mode, i.e. Boost, Absorption, Float. The BM PRO gives the battery state of charge when off grid.
Existing holes for switches and the bar graph voltmeter were used for the new setup without needing to damage or alter the van, adding a digital voltmeter and an extra 12 v to 5 v USB x 2 outlet.
Dreamwalking
Peter
Great presentation Condor, so clearly explained that I can't even ask you a question, you have said it all..... well done.
Morning Condor,
Great diagram, but?
Could you do me a favour and maybe others and give us a full description of the abbreviations? eg: BM Pro, BCDC, CTBK etc.
Great diagram, but?
Could you do me a favour and maybe others and give us a full description of the abbreviations? eg: BM Pro, BCDC, CTBK etc.
condor22
Mike
Nightjar said:
NJ - The BM PRO is not abbreviated it is the name of the device, a battery monitoring device and I've explained the BM PRO incl pictures earlier in the thread (around page 4) .
Where I note BCDC, the line above actually states Redarc BCDC1220 in full, also the full name of the device.
CTBK on the wiring diagram (WD); noted - I assumed that if one can understand the WD, then they would know the symbol for a circuit breaker.
From now on, as I have done many times before, I'll do this - "Circuit Breaker (CCTBKR)", then if I need to use the term again, I'll use the abbreviation. The issue is I have already done this on the thread, but I guess the question is how often I need to redo this......
BTW, There is a glossary of terms on page 1 (albeit not all).
Question for you Condor, do you need to isolate the solar panels when charging from another source? As a Solar panel is intrinsically a diode, so as long as the voltage does not exceed their rating, I would have thought that they are self-protecting?
Also a couple of days ago a friend said that the doco for his Setec (not CTek) caravan charging system also says that it should be isolated if charging from another source, e.g. his car or solar. What is you take on that as I would have thought that it too should have internal protection against that sort of thing?
Rob P.
Also a couple of days ago a friend said that the doco for his Setec (not CTek) caravan charging system also says that it should be isolated if charging from another source, e.g. his car or solar. What is you take on that as I would have thought that it too should have internal protection against that sort of thing?
Rob P.
condor22
Mike
Simple rule - Charge from one source at a time is best for an AGM or other deep cycle batteries. However this needs some explanation. I'll rephrase that .... "Charge from one device at a time." (see note 2.)
1. I have a Redarc BCDC 1220 in the van for car charging, a 240 VAC Voltech 30 A smart charger and a Victron 20 A MPPT solar controller. All of these are individual input and output. (my Redarc is pre solar type) They are all classed as "smart chargers" as they look to the batteries State of Charge (SOC). However, i.e. The battery is holding 13.9 V with a couple of amps going in from solar in bad weather conditions, because that's all they are able to produce. I crank up the genny to use the Voltech 240 VAC charger and it sees the voltage and amps going in, it will not know the true state of the battery. In other words, they can confuse each other and neither may do it's proper job.
That's not to say the battery won't charge, it will, but not in the best way and possibly not fully. This can affect service life.
2. Having said that, you can charge from 2 sources at a time, BUT, from one device. i.e. The C TEK 250S duel DC to DC charger. It can be connected to a solar panel and the vehicle alternator. Redarc also do a similar charger, where they give priority to solar and supplement from alternator.
A simple example is - If the battery is low enough to need "Boost" mode charging at say 15 amps and solar is producing 6 amps, then it uses approx 9 amps from the alternator. In the same situation at night, solar is zero then the device uses the full 15 amps from the car.
As I mentioned, there are other benefits in isolating multiple panels. For me it's the process, not so much the equipment.
a. Off grid, bush camping, solar panels are on, no genny running and not connected to the car.
b. In a van park or at home, the van is connected to 240 VAC full time, Voltech is on, solar and DC-DC are off. (reason, I have power available and solar doesn't charge at night, so there is a little up/down when only on solar, so long term storage is better on 240 VAC, but if not available solar will certainly do the job.)
c. As mentioned, there are times when several really crappy days of bad weather can cause less solar than is needed. This is where options come in. If I can and do, due to wanting to conserve LPG, I run my genny to top up the battery and at the same time heat hot water and use the microwave.
d. Also, there are places that do not allow generator use, so I connect the Redarc and idle the car if needed.
As a footnote, I find my comment at d. to be somewhat contradictory, - we can't use gennies due to the noise, but idling my car is ok. I have a Honda genny and I reckon my 4x4 is louder, lol.
1. I have a Redarc BCDC 1220 in the van for car charging, a 240 VAC Voltech 30 A smart charger and a Victron 20 A MPPT solar controller. All of these are individual input and output. (my Redarc is pre solar type) They are all classed as "smart chargers" as they look to the batteries State of Charge (SOC). However, i.e. The battery is holding 13.9 V with a couple of amps going in from solar in bad weather conditions, because that's all they are able to produce. I crank up the genny to use the Voltech 240 VAC charger and it sees the voltage and amps going in, it will not know the true state of the battery. In other words, they can confuse each other and neither may do it's proper job.
That's not to say the battery won't charge, it will, but not in the best way and possibly not fully. This can affect service life.
2. Having said that, you can charge from 2 sources at a time, BUT, from one device. i.e. The C TEK 250S duel DC to DC charger. It can be connected to a solar panel and the vehicle alternator. Redarc also do a similar charger, where they give priority to solar and supplement from alternator.
A simple example is - If the battery is low enough to need "Boost" mode charging at say 15 amps and solar is producing 6 amps, then it uses approx 9 amps from the alternator. In the same situation at night, solar is zero then the device uses the full 15 amps from the car.
As I mentioned, there are other benefits in isolating multiple panels. For me it's the process, not so much the equipment.
a. Off grid, bush camping, solar panels are on, no genny running and not connected to the car.
b. In a van park or at home, the van is connected to 240 VAC full time, Voltech is on, solar and DC-DC are off. (reason, I have power available and solar doesn't charge at night, so there is a little up/down when only on solar, so long term storage is better on 240 VAC, but if not available solar will certainly do the job.)
c. As mentioned, there are times when several really crappy days of bad weather can cause less solar than is needed. This is where options come in. If I can and do, due to wanting to conserve LPG, I run my genny to top up the battery and at the same time heat hot water and use the microwave.
d. Also, there are places that do not allow generator use, so I connect the Redarc and idle the car if needed.
As a footnote, I find my comment at d. to be somewhat contradictory, - we can't use gennies due to the noise, but idling my car is ok. I have a Honda genny and I reckon my 4x4 is louder, lol.
condor22
Mike
Mentioned before, I've bought 3 AGM batteries in the last 5 years. One was to replace my 4x4 Auxiliary, the old one was over 10 years old, which managed properly is what I would expect.
The other 2 were due to "stuff ups" on my part. The first was the van about 5 years ago, I rewired - OEM van was to run the 3 way from the car. I rewired it to the van battery and the car to charge it via the Redarc. I set off on a trip of over 500kms and when I arrived I noticed the 3 way wasn't cold, then the van battery being flat. What happened was the fuse from the Redarc to the battery had blown. I tried recharging from 240 VAC, but it didn't hold voltage, so $300 plus for a new battery. I rewired at the same time back to running the 3 way from the car.
The second happened last year on a prospecting trip. I inadvertently turned my Travel Buddy timer too far and it was permanently on. I found out many hours later when the Engel wasn't cold. That battery was down at 5.6 volts or so. Again tried to charge it and same thing. They don't like being flattened.
I now check the 3 way every time I stop for a leg stretch and make sure the oven is off, lol. The current van battery is now 5 years old and the 4x4 Aux is 1 year old. Hopefully, they will go the distance, without further stuff ups.
The other 2 were due to "stuff ups" on my part. The first was the van about 5 years ago, I rewired - OEM van was to run the 3 way from the car. I rewired it to the van battery and the car to charge it via the Redarc. I set off on a trip of over 500kms and when I arrived I noticed the 3 way wasn't cold, then the van battery being flat. What happened was the fuse from the Redarc to the battery had blown. I tried recharging from 240 VAC, but it didn't hold voltage, so $300 plus for a new battery. I rewired at the same time back to running the 3 way from the car.
The second happened last year on a prospecting trip. I inadvertently turned my Travel Buddy timer too far and it was permanently on. I found out many hours later when the Engel wasn't cold. That battery was down at 5.6 volts or so. Again tried to charge it and same thing. They don't like being flattened.
I now check the 3 way every time I stop for a leg stretch and make sure the oven is off, lol. The current van battery is now 5 years old and the 4x4 Aux is 1 year old. Hopefully, they will go the distance, without further stuff ups.
Condor, Two of the handiest items purchased were a Engel wireless temperature gauge and another brand for the caravan 3 way. Can keep tabs on both fridges from cab while driving.
Also the high amperage draw from the 3 way while travelling like you flattened the van batteries. I overcame this by using welding cable, anderson plugs and high amp fuses at auxilliary ute battery an both van batteries Problem solved, we can drive the 1000 kms to our camp and arrive with 3 way still showing 3C.
Also the high amperage draw from the 3 way while travelling like you flattened the van batteries. I overcame this by using welding cable, anderson plugs and high amp fuses at auxilliary ute battery an both van batteries Problem solved, we can drive the 1000 kms to our camp and arrive with 3 way still showing 3C.
condor22
Mike
Unfortunately, Engel no longer produce a wireless temp gauge, only the wired one. I do have wireless in the Engel and in the van fridge, Ironman brand. The one in the van is not good enough to work consistently to the car. So I leave the receiver in the van and check it every 1-2 hours anyway. It may be the fridge cabinet, van walls, and car mass interfere with the signal.
As my 4x4 battery is working at 14.8 to 15 volts and I cut out charging the van from that power source, I get a good 12.9 volts at the 3 way, so staying cold wasn't the problem. Flattening the van battery with a blown fuse under the dinette seat was. It's not something regularly checked, but had I checked the fridge temp it would have told the story, mybad, lol, I drove straight through to get there before dark, instead of taking a break.
Older n wiser now, I don't care about time anymore, just getting there in one piece along with everything else. When I trip from Adelaide to the GT, I stop briefly at Tailem Bend, Keith, Horsham, St Arnaud etc and maybe more, sometimes for 5 minutes and leg stretch, other times for a feed. But I check the van inside, fridge, Engel, walk around the van etc.
It may be the fridge cabinet, van walls, and car mass interfere with the signal.As my 4x4 battery is working at 14.8 to 15 volts and I cut out charging the van from that power source, I get a good 12.9 volts at the 3 way, so staying cold wasn't the problem. Flattening the van battery with a blown fuse under the dinette seat was. It's not something regularly checked, but had I checked the fridge temp it would have told the story, mybad, lol, I drove straight through to get there before dark, instead of taking a break.
Older n wiser now, I don't care about time anymore, just getting there in one piece along with everything else.
When I trip from Adelaide to the GT, I stop briefly at Tailem Bend, Keith, Horsham, St Arnaud etc and maybe more, sometimes for 5 minutes and leg stretch, other times for a feed. But I check the van inside, fridge, Engel, walk around the van etc.
condor22
Mike
Am out in the caravan with detectors. Thought I'd share this re battery charging, not the van battery, lol.
I have the following gear on charge;
GPX5000 Lithium battery - 12 V input
2 x 3600 mAH Li-oN 18650 batteries - 12 V input
1 x Steel Phase SP01 - 5 V USB input
1 x Deteknix Wireless Headphones - - 5 V USB input
1 x Deteknix wireless Tx for the phones. - 5 V USB input
All charging from my van battery and the current draw is 1.3 amps
The GPX and SP01 are already charged after 45 minutes. I expect the Deteknix to be charged within 1.5 hours and the 18650s in 2 hours.
Total will be < 2.5 AH of power use. I read this load with my panels off and then turned them back on for a + charge to the van, therefore no drain on the van battery.
For those prospectors charging from a car, camper or van 12 volts, it's sod all.
I have the following gear on charge;
GPX5000 Lithium battery - 12 V input
2 x 3600 mAH Li-oN 18650 batteries - 12 V input
1 x Steel Phase SP01 - 5 V USB input
1 x Deteknix Wireless Headphones - - 5 V USB input
1 x Deteknix wireless Tx for the phones. - 5 V USB input
All charging from my van battery and the current draw is 1.3 amps
The GPX and SP01 are already charged after 45 minutes. I expect the Deteknix to be charged within 1.5 hours and the 18650s in 2 hours.
Total will be < 2.5 AH of power use. I read this load with my panels off and then turned them back on for a + charge to the van, therefore no drain on the van battery.
For those prospectors charging from a car, camper or van 12 volts, it's sod all.
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condor22 said:Unfortunately, Engel no longer produce a wireless temp gauge, only the wired one. I do have wireless in the Engel and in the van fridge, Ironman brand. The one in the van is not good enough to work consistently to the car. So I leave the receiver in the van and check it every 1-2 hours anyway.
I have two of these units, and they work faultlessly:
You'll find them on eBay......sorry, aren't able to post a link yet.
One unit monitors two Tuckerbox freezers at home - one freezer located in the laundry, and one at the far end of the house in a small storeroom....house is double brick. The Receiver/Display unit is stuck to the door of the kitchen fridge (unit has inbuilt magnets for the purpose)....so both freezers can be monitored from the kitchen.
The second unit I have has a sensor in the camper-trailer fridge, and a sensor in the Engel in the ute tub.....previously the camper-trailer sensor was in our caravan fridge....but we got rid of the 'van and got the camper. Signal from the 'van fridge to the receiver in the tow vehicle was fine.
In all situations the unit works perfectly, and I can monitor the camper and Engel fridges while under way on the road.
At the price (around $28), might be worth a try.
Morning Katabatic, Is this the item you have displayed?
This site has better reviews than the last one, also the temperature range makes sense.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LCD-Wir...m3da9fe7a51:g:xdgAAOSwvGNfRzJm&frcectupt=true
This site has better reviews than the last one, also the temperature range makes sense.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LCD-Wir...m3da9fe7a51:g:xdgAAOSwvGNfRzJm&frcectupt=true
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Nightjar said:
Yep, thats the unitquite a few eBay sellers offering itI just picked the first one I found for the purpose of the post.
The receiver unit has two remote sensor displays, plus an ambient temp display and, as you can see, it records and displays max and min temps for each input, and has the facility to set alarm points for each of the three inputs.
Ive been running a couple of these units for over two years now and cant fault them.
Couple of points worth noting..always fire up the remotes first, before putting the batteries in the receiver..this is apparently necessary to enable the receiver to log onto the remotes.
Andif youre running two units, as I am, you need to make sure that you get each receiver logged onto its corresponding remotes. Theres no unique coding involved between units, so a second receiver can log onto one or both of the first receivers remotes, unless its given the opportunity to first log onto its own remotes.
The clue for me was when I saw the Engel in the back of the ute running at -17C :argh: .which was actually the temperature in one of the Tuckerbox freezers in the house
Forgot to mention....the receiver has the usual pull-out plastic leg for mounting on a flat horizontal surface, but also has four small but powerful magnets embedded into the back, which means you can slap it onto any ferrous surface and it'll stick like glue.
condor22
Mike
Had a look, cheap enough to try,
2 x AAA in the receiver, what and how many batteries in the transmitter modules?
2 x AAA in the receiver, what and how many batteries in the transmitter modules?
