Boiling advice please

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I have the same problem with my 98 3 litre diesel hilux, i made up mounts to fix my bonnet ajar to get more air flow, made a difference but but still got hot on those high temp days, not as bad with the bonnet shut. Below is one fix i found on a forum i haven't tried yet.
Newhilux.net
Just to add , at hwy speeds you absolutely could not delete the factory fan on any toyota unless you live in a climate under 20 deg c , it's been tried over the years with electric fans and they don't work anywhere near as well as the factory Toyota fan .
If you have gone thru everything and all is well there is one way to gain more air flow and that is get the fan blades from a KZN 165 hilux , they have 10 blades instead of 7 on the kun 26 and fit straight onto the KUN 26 fan clutch .
Another important point I have found is on the auto KUn 26,s I have seen (up to 2009for my eyes) ,is the auto cooler inside the radiator is nearly blocking the lower radiator outlet.
Clearly not a good design idea at all and if you do some googling you will find the issue the toyota KZN 130 surfs had cracking heads years ago in which people believed was helped by the design of the lower water outlet of radiator being partially blocked by the auto trans cooler , which is the same design as the Kun 26 hilux .
I would be keen for any other mechs on here to keep a look at this issue and chime in with what they find .
Dave
 
your EGTs (exhaust gas temp) are high which in turn will run the engine hot.

Cause.. turbo boost pressure is held high over extended periods when under load - towing a van for example

Fix A.. lower turbo boost pressure or..
Fix B.. control your EGTs

To control EGTs I suggest you have a EGT gauge fitted and dont ever let it run over about 600 degC, if it does drop down a gear which will lower the boost pressure and in turn lower the engine temp.

This is an inherent nature of turbo's, even in todays cars, EGTs are the most important thing to monitor & control on any turbo engine - regardless diesel or petrol.

The only other way to control this engine temp problem is to fit a larger turbo and run a lower boost pressure... but even then I would still fit an EGT gauge, because its obvious your ECU isn't controlling the EGT by automatically reducing turbo boost when EGTs get high

In many cases, people that install EGT Gauges do so because their engine has had work done to it. If you are playing with fuel/air ratio, fitting a larger turbo or running higher boost, a quality EGT Gauge is a must. Without it, you may find that the engine runs too hot and does damage, like melting pistons and frying valves
 
Was aware of that one.
Reason being the Surf's were a grey import.
Thay were designed for a cold climate.
The outlet was designed that way to warm the motor up quicker.

Actually a good point.

Ken, Do you have the Auto Trans cooler fittings on the lower tank. ?

RockRat said:
I have the same problem with my 98 3 litre diesel hilux, i made up mounts to fix my bonnet ajar to get more air flow, made a difference but but still got hot on those high temp days, not as bad with the bonnet shut. Below is one fix i found on a forum i haven't tried yet.
Newhilux.net
Just to add , at hwy speeds you absolutely could not delete the factory fan on any toyota unless you live in a climate under 20 deg c , it's been tried over the years with electric fans and they don't work anywhere near as well as the factory Toyota fan .
If you have gone thru everything and all is well there is one way to gain more air flow and that is get the fan blades from a KZN 165 hilux , they have 10 blades instead of 7 on the kun 26 and fit straight onto the KUN 26 fan clutch .
Another important point I have found is on the auto KUn 26,s I have seen (up to 2009for my eyes) ,is the auto cooler inside the radiator is nearly blocking the lower radiator outlet.
Clearly not a good design idea at all and if you do some googling you will find the issue the toyota KZN 130 surfs had cracking heads years ago in which people believed was helped by the design of the lower water outlet of radiator being partially blocked by the auto trans cooler , which is the same design as the Kun 26 hilux .
I would be keen for any other mechs on here to keep a look at this issue and chime in with what they find .
Dave
Click to expand...
 
We chase these problems with all kinds of theorys and in the end it normaly comes back to the radiator.
Been there done that and wasted heaps of dollars along the way.
Just my experience.
Jim
 
BigL said:
your EGTs (exhaust gas temp) are high which in turn will run the engine hot.

Cause.. turbo boost pressure is held high over extended periods when under load - towing a van for example

Fix A.. lower turbo boost pressure or..
Fix B.. control your EGTs

To control EGTs I suggest you have a EGT gauge fitted and dont ever let it run over about 600 degC, if it does drop down a gear which will lower the boost pressure and in turn lower the engine temp.

This is an inherent nature of turbo's, even in todays cars, EGTs are the most important thing to monitor & control on any turbo engine - regardless diesel or petrol.

The only other way to control this engine temp problem is to fit a larger turbo and run a lower boost pressure... but even then I would still fit an EGT gauge, because its obvious your ECU isn't controlling the EGT by automatically reducing turbo boost when EGTs get high

In many cases, people that install EGT Gauges do so because their engine has had work done to it. If you are playing with fuel/air ratio, fitting a larger turbo or running higher boost, a quality EGT Gauge is a must. Without it, you may find that the engine runs too hot and does damage, like melting pistons and frying valves
Click to expand...

His engine was designed to suit an intercooler however none is fitted , the engine wasnt OEM for the vehicle .

his intake air could be 15 - 20 degrees hotter before it goes in , but first things first , he will do the water pump then go through the checklist until the beach behaves
 
FLAMIN HELL KEN!....All this talk about your truck...and now me Prado's done a flamin Master Cylinder in on me....I thought the brakes were a bit 'spongy' and reckoned I might need ta bleed 'em...got me mech dude ta check'n dammit!...New Master and fluid flush later!..."that'll be 440 dollars thanks mate!!...WTF!...BUT i';M AN OLD PENSIONER MATE!..Stone the flamin crows!!...git yer truck flamin goin' mate before some'tin else on the Prado fall's orrf!...
:eek: :mad: 8.( :awful: :8 ...hehe
 
CreviceSucker said:
BigL said:
your EGTs (exhaust gas temp) are high which in turn will run the engine hot.

Cause.. turbo boost pressure is held high over extended periods when under load - towing a van for example

Fix A.. lower turbo boost pressure or..
Fix B.. control your EGTs

To control EGTs I suggest you have a EGT gauge fitted and dont ever let it run over about 600 degC, if it does drop down a gear which will lower the boost pressure and in turn lower the engine temp.

This is an inherent nature of turbo's, even in todays cars, EGTs are the most important thing to monitor & control on any turbo engine - regardless diesel or petrol.

The only other way to control this engine temp problem is to fit a larger turbo and run a lower boost pressure... but even then I would still fit an EGT gauge, because its obvious your ECU isn't controlling the EGT by automatically reducing turbo boost when EGTs get high

In many cases, people that install EGT Gauges do so because their engine has had work done to it. If you are playing with fuel/air ratio, fitting a larger turbo or running higher boost, a quality EGT Gauge is a must. Without it, you may find that the engine runs too hot and does damage, like melting pistons and frying valves
Click to expand...

His engine was designed to suit an intercooler however none is fitted , the engine wasnt OEM for the vehicle .

his intake air could be 15 - 20 degrees hotter before it goes in , but first things first , he will do the water pump then go through the checklist until the beach behaves
Click to expand...

his intake air could be 15 - 20 degrees hotter before it goes in
Click to expand...

Way, way, way hotter than that.

This is for a supercharged type compressor (not using hot exhaust gas). Compressing air increases heat massively, after all that's how a diesel ignites it's very un-inflammable fuel.

1592311240_supercharger.jpg
 
Update

New after market temp gauge (not fitted yet wrong size connection)
New temp sender unit fitted (for the old system)
New Fan Clutch Fitted
New Radiator fitted
New Thermostat fitted
New Water Pump fitted (here is something to keep in your mind non genuine water pumps for my motor the blades are 4mm smaller then a genuine Toyota one)
Large Bonnet Scoop Fitted
Head Gasket Fix added to the water just in case

Gonna go for a run tomorrow and see how it runs
then hook up the caravan and take it out on Friday to see if the problem is fixed
 
So you didn't go for an Intercooler mate...I know they can be costly,but that might of been your problem right there...just say'in :/ :cool: :Y:
 

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