bit of lanolin mate should bring the leather back to life, thats a ripper piece 
many many coats of lanolin
many many coats of lanolin
Bellows puffer style drywasher plans
- Thread starter gcause
- Start date
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slowflow
Barry
Dubin, may help keep the leather pliable. It will change the colour. Have a look on the alternate lifestyle sites or there must be a leather workers site. eg http://leatherworker.net/content/ Patch could also be due to the cut of the leather which is generally thinner near the big creases around areas where large movement occurs.
My brother suggested I go to a saddlery and ask for Neatsfoot Oil to restore the leather, apparently thats what they use on old saddles to make the leather supple again.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com.au/en-aud/product/tandy-pure-neatsfoot-oil-21997-119.aspx
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com.au/en-aud/product/tandy-pure-neatsfoot-oil-21997-119.aspx
thedigger said:
Hi TheDigger, I haven't been able to find out much about the Gold Wizard from WA, have you got any photos of one? Cheers, Grant
Thanks for that TheDigger nice build but a bit bigger than I was planning on.
Here is what I was thinking I would do.
It sits about a foot high right now so with the top classifier box added that would be roughly three feet high. I want to keep it low profile when packed up so I can transport it in the back of the Troopy.
I was thinking I would put it on lockable wheels as it's a heavy beastie as it is.
I thought I would make adjustable legs with a bit of square pipe bolted to the four leg connectors.
The leg connectors are already designed to create a downward angle for the sluice if the legs are straight.
Into the square pipe I would put slightly smaller square pipe shafts for the wheels with a lock pin arrangement to adjust the height but still keep it straight up and down for the sluice angle to be right if the lock pins are all adjusted to the same height.
This inner pipe would be long enough to give the bellows enough clearance from the ground to operate and get clean air. The pipe would only be as high as the units collapsed height to enable easy transport.
In use it would sit fairly low (about the height of a shopping trolley) so the classifier box grill is at shovel height so I am not lifting the shovel up to reach the classifier. A bit like the Keene unit does.
On one of the legs I would add a small platform for a small petrol variable speed blower motor my brother took out of an old leaf blower. To that leg I would also attach a fly wheel and to that a cam shaft arrangement to run the driver arm for the bellows.
Any thoughts on how I could improve on that design?
I would appreciate any suggestions from people who have used these dry washers before as I speak from zero experience with using them. :8
Here is what I was thinking I would do.
It sits about a foot high right now so with the top classifier box added that would be roughly three feet high. I want to keep it low profile when packed up so I can transport it in the back of the Troopy.
I was thinking I would put it on lockable wheels as it's a heavy beastie as it is.
I thought I would make adjustable legs with a bit of square pipe bolted to the four leg connectors.
The leg connectors are already designed to create a downward angle for the sluice if the legs are straight.
Into the square pipe I would put slightly smaller square pipe shafts for the wheels with a lock pin arrangement to adjust the height but still keep it straight up and down for the sluice angle to be right if the lock pins are all adjusted to the same height.
This inner pipe would be long enough to give the bellows enough clearance from the ground to operate and get clean air. The pipe would only be as high as the units collapsed height to enable easy transport.
In use it would sit fairly low (about the height of a shopping trolley) so the classifier box grill is at shovel height so I am not lifting the shovel up to reach the classifier. A bit like the Keene unit does.
On one of the legs I would add a small platform for a small petrol variable speed blower motor my brother took out of an old leaf blower. To that leg I would also attach a fly wheel and to that a cam shaft arrangement to run the driver arm for the bellows.
Any thoughts on how I could improve on that design?
I would appreciate any suggestions from people who have used these dry washers before as I speak from zero experience with using them. :8
To move it there is two handles that come up,and the wheel pops out.Also there is a hose that is attached to the motor inlet,so as to prevent dust getting into the motor,it is layed away to get fresh air.You could lower the unit a lot by not using a screen that moves from side to side,just a plain screen you shovel onto,and the material drops throughonto the riffles.To reduce the speed of the motor I have used a 9 to 1 gear box
Regards TheDigger
Regards TheDigger
slowflow
Barry
Neatsfoot is the old stuff & has it's own unique odour which is OK if you don't mind it. The kitchen tiger here hates it passionately.
Yes I was thinking of a plain screen with metal reinforcing around the top with a slick plate at the bottom third of it. Like the Thompson unit uses.thedigger said:
I was also thinking of the wiper washer motor but it's a 12volt system and I think the petrol one would last all day as you are not stressing it at 90 strokes a minute. The one my brother has is a variable speed so I could do some fine tuning.
I would add a handle to the flywheel so I could run it without the motor if necessary. i.e. I run out of fuel or don't want to have the noise of the engine going.
The wheelbarrow concept is appealing to move it about but I would have to work on a folding mechanism for the wheels and handles to make it easy to transport once packed up. Stability was also my concern with that I note yours has a metal frame to overcome that issue.
Cheers, Grant
Yes based on what they make it out of I can see whyslowflow said:
From this website: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil
Neatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the shin bones and feet (but not the hooves) of cattle. "Neat" in the oil's name comes from an old name for cattle. Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medicinally as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.
Fat from warm-blooded animals normally has a high melting point, becoming hard when cool but neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature. This is because the relatively slender legs and feet of animals such as cattle are adapted to tolerate and maintain much lower temperatures than those of the body core, using countercurrent heat exchange in the legs between warm arterial and cooler venous blood other body fat would become stiff at these temperatures. This characteristic of neatsfoot oil allows it to soak easily into leather.
Modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, but now, while retaining its historic name, usually is made mostly from lard,[1] which is sold as pure neatsfoot oil. This formulation does darken leather.[2] If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound". Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils.[3] The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself.[2][4][5]
If you use a petrol motor you have the problem of gearing down,and you do not have that with a wiper motor.
You could use a solar panel,about 100 watt which are very cheap,and that would keep your wiper motor going in junction with a battery.
Regards TheDigger
You could use a solar panel,about 100 watt which are very cheap,and that would keep your wiper motor going in junction with a battery.
Regards TheDigger
By tye smell of that id use lanolin mate. Best to wash the leather in warm water first.
gcause said:Yes based on what they make it out of I can see whyslowflow said:
From this website: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neatsfoot_oil
Neatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the shin bones and feet (but not the hooves) of cattle. "Neat" in the oil's name comes from an old name for cattle. Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, it was also used medicinally as a topical application for dry scaly skin conditions.
Fat from warm-blooded animals normally has a high melting point, becoming hard when cool but neatsfoot oil remains liquid at room temperature. This is because the relatively slender legs and feet of animals such as cattle are adapted to tolerate and maintain much lower temperatures than those of the body core, using countercurrent heat exchange in the legs between warm arterial and cooler venous blood other body fat would become stiff at these temperatures. This characteristic of neatsfoot oil allows it to soak easily into leather.
Modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, but now, while retaining its historic name, usually is made mostly from lard,[1] which is sold as pure neatsfoot oil. This formulation does darken leather.[2] If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound". Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils.[3] The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself.[2][4][5]
MJB
matt
Gcause,
Just out of curiosity, if you are going down the path of fitting a leaf blower motor to your dry washer why not forget about the bellows style washer and knock one up like the keene 140 . The bellows style appeals to me only because its a lot quieter running than having an annoying motor revving its arse off. Having said that the one I am building is a clone of the keene 140 with the eccentric fan (home made) so I will need a noisy motor too. I was impressed when I used DiggerDudes and I just had to have one although the price for a newie was crazy.
Just from watching a few Youtube vids it looks like the bellows style with its pulsing of air blasts might blow fine gold out of the riffle tray where as the constant air flow mixed with vibes of the other type might allow the heavies a better chance to sink to the bottom and get caught.
Anyway, just thinking about it. If anyone has more experience with these it would be great to hear about your opinions.
Cheers
Just out of curiosity, if you are going down the path of fitting a leaf blower motor to your dry washer why not forget about the bellows style washer and knock one up like the keene 140 . The bellows style appeals to me only because its a lot quieter running than having an annoying motor revving its arse off. Having said that the one I am building is a clone of the keene 140 with the eccentric fan (home made) so I will need a noisy motor too. I was impressed when I used DiggerDudes and I just had to have one although the price for a newie was crazy.
Just from watching a few Youtube vids it looks like the bellows style with its pulsing of air blasts might blow fine gold out of the riffle tray where as the constant air flow mixed with vibes of the other type might allow the heavies a better chance to sink to the bottom and get caught.
Anyway, just thinking about it. If anyone has more experience with these it would be great to hear about your opinions.
Cheers
Hey MJB good to hear your building your own
from what ive been told and research ive done the die hards say that bellows will hold finer gold, the argument is that when the light material is pushed up it is also given an opportunity to be drawn back into the screen deeper on the down stroke. From my personal experience the capture rate of a properly aligned blower system is amazing and the fine gold i was able to capture was seriously impressive. There were some variations with cloth type in the recovery but i think i got it nailed in the last cloth.
Having said that I will be making a bellows unit just because i want too and cost permitting i'll make a few extras and make them available for members to purchase.
can we see some pics of your mate?
from what ive been told and research ive done the die hards say that bellows will hold finer gold, the argument is that when the light material is pushed up it is also given an opportunity to be drawn back into the screen deeper on the down stroke. From my personal experience the capture rate of a properly aligned blower system is amazing and the fine gold i was able to capture was seriously impressive. There were some variations with cloth type in the recovery but i think i got it nailed in the last cloth.
Having said that I will be making a bellows unit just because i want too and cost permitting i'll make a few extras and make them available for members to purchase.
can we see some pics of your mate?
dammit all this talk about drywashers i'm going to go hit one of my wombat holes for a few hours i'll post some pics for you guys later
Hi All
This is just a comment I want to throw out to you!!
I am planning on building a Dry Blower it will be a puffer style (bellows)
Think about when you are panning! do you continue to agitate the pan side to side, when tipping it forward to wash the dirt off? "NO YOU DON'T" you stop & then lift it further then wash off.
To me the stop & lift method is what the Bellows type Dryblower does & the opposite can be said for the constant blower as it constantly agitates the fines across the top, this is my opinion & others may disagree, I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on what I have described.
cheers
Lee
This is just a comment I want to throw out to you!!
I am planning on building a Dry Blower it will be a puffer style (bellows)
Think about when you are panning! do you continue to agitate the pan side to side, when tipping it forward to wash the dirt off? "NO YOU DON'T" you stop & then lift it further then wash off.
To me the stop & lift method is what the Bellows type Dryblower does & the opposite can be said for the constant blower as it constantly agitates the fines across the top, this is my opinion & others may disagree, I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on what I have described.
cheers
Lee
MJB
matt
Very interesting points guys and I can understand what your saying.
I have very limited experience with them and I guess the only way would be to do a comparison of both machines on similar ground.
Maybe where the constant blower type comes in handy is possibly its ability to process more dirt than the bellows type. With more dirt processed there is a point where possible loss of finer gold is compensated by higher production....Make sense??
Golddigg....I wish I had a dry wombat hole to hit at the drop of a hat like you, the missus would never see me
I will take some pics of my dry washer when I get back to work next week. I get to do a bit now and then when things are slow, hence why its at work. It has created a bit of talk though...no-one can figure out what it is.
Love to see some pics of yours in action.
Cheers,
I have very limited experience with them and I guess the only way would be to do a comparison of both machines on similar ground.
Maybe where the constant blower type comes in handy is possibly its ability to process more dirt than the bellows type. With more dirt processed there is a point where possible loss of finer gold is compensated by higher production....Make sense??
Golddigg....I wish I had a dry wombat hole to hit at the drop of a hat like you, the missus would never see me
I will take some pics of my dry washer when I get back to work next week. I get to do a bit now and then when things are slow, hence why its at work. It has created a bit of talk though...no-one can figure out what it is.
Love to see some pics of yours in action.
Cheers,
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