Actually Building the Machine!

[Nena]

For now im going to draw the design completely over again, 4 axis in total. X Y and X rotation and Y rotation. There is no need for a Z if im going to cut stones verticaly. I think that will do! When im done i will mill everything and build the total design. I think it is the best this way, simple, straight and good for the accuracy! Hope to complete the complete design this week so that i can order the base materials next week or so ;- )

 

[vonG]

Totally agree with you, 4 axis machine is the best way to go. Why complicate things.

 

[Nena]

Hi Thomas,

What do you think about these encoders, they can be read by usb. The rotation is slow of the machine so i could easely read out the sensor, i could write an usb connection trough my software. It are absolute encoders so i could bring back the head everytime to the same position.

Look at: https://www.rls.si/fileuploader/download/download/?d=0&file=custom/upload/Datasheet_Aksim_MHA.pdf

Mayby i buy two of them for the two rotating axis. The next thing is the long (990mm) x axis. They are not THAT expensive +/- $280 AUD

Greets,

Christian

 

[vonG]

The problem I see is the dust and water coming from the faceting can hurt the encoder. Even though the ring itself is water resistant, the diamond dust in it will hurt the encoder.
Need to have it encapsulated.

Encoders are built for speed and accuracy, but the stall-torque isn't always as good. Even though it has a memory and will go back to the set value if thrown away by force.

 

[Nena]

The problem I see is the dust and water coming from the faceting can hurt the encoder. Even though the ring itself is water resistant, the diamond dust in it will hurt the encoder.
Need to have it encapsulated.

I still having problems to get the bearinghouse milled, but i have still the original bearinghouses, if i turn one exact and make a holder for it and cut the house to the middle and ad the encoder with a small plate between the harmonic drive and the shaft it could work, and then build a small cover around the harmonic drive and the encoder and shaft then the first encoder is fully covered up and sealt. Also it gives me less problems with building the shaft for vacuum. Mmmzzz dont think this is a bad solution

Encoders are built for speed and accuracy, but the stall-torque isn't always as good. Even though it has a memory and will go back to the set value if thrown away by force.

These are absolute encoders so you can go back to its original position. This is why i want these kind of encoders.

 

[vonG]

You should go with whatever you feel is right for your machine, but I would chose a high precision stepper motor setup instead. You are not building this for speed.

Encoders are good for clean environments, even if you have covers the dust from the diamond laps and the gemstones will be so fine that it will get in. I dont know if the temperature will be to high if you encapsulate the encoder completely, but maybe it could work that way.

 

[Nena]

I use high precision steppers, but the Harmonic Drives are more precies; the motors have a encoder but i want one extra encoder on the shaft of the cutting head to position it exact while i use the Harmonic Drives. If the motors are running at 3000rpm the Harmonic Drive is running at 60rpm. I do not loos any steps but i can set the HD at a absolute position. These HD's cost about AUD $2500 eatch. The motors +/- AUD $300 each. I dont think any dust will come in the housing. The bearingholder will be vacuumshut and the complete housing will i do wil 12-22mm plate. And all plates are sunken into the other plate for straight building.

 

[vonG]

Ok, I think I got you wrong then. I thought it would be an open setup with the encoder bare.
Of course HD are more precise, as long as you need the precision you should go with that. Its a hefty price though.

 

[Nena]

Hehehe The black and silver ring you see on the image and in the bearinghouse are harmonic drives Still have 11 pieces of them, lol didnt have to buy those. I think im going to do that! Ill draw the motor & bearing today so that i can let it make as first item. Then the rest of the setup. Ill upload the drawings so you can see what im intending to do lol

 

[vonG]

Yes, please do. Think I got it all wrong. pictures are always better when explaining. English isnt my first language either.

 

[Nena]

Where u from?!

 

[vonG]

sweden

 

[Nena]

sweden

Sweden! Im from the Netherlands Welcome by the way! lol You could drive to my home one day lol

 

[vonG]

Thanks.
Maybe I will take you up on that offer when you have got the machine up and running. Would be fun to see it live.

 

[Nena]

Thnx! Your Welcome!

The head will be milled these week I hope i did it all oke Still need to draw the rest... having some problems with the joint but ill get it right hope to complete the rest this or next week so it can also be milled!

The first part is done! The sensor ring plate

 

[Nena]

Have done the joint! I can seal the joint now to protect the absolute rotation sensor and can now go on with the mounting plates and the linear guides.

 

[Gilly47]

Hello All

This drawing technology never ceases to amaze me, I trained in engineering practises in the 1960's, there was minimal automation and our technology at that time was a auto lathe that followed a steel profile to produce steam pipe flanges for welding in to boilers.

ray

 

[Gilly47]

way above my comprehension but am intrigued at the build process. Nice Work gents

 

[Nena]

Hi Ray, a lot has changed indeed! This is anno 2017 lol! It took a while to draw like this but it is fun and when the parts arive its even more fun to build! I use one of the best drawing programs for sutch perposes. (Autodesk Inventor) There are others. About technicks, i digged a German BF109G for a few years back and when we cleaned the engine it looks likes 2 drups of water with a new Merceders 12 cylinder from the farmer! The tech was already there in 1944! The only thing what was changed was the oil pump. LoL!

Ill continue to build my machine, only it is a pain in the xxx to get it compact and strong. I use 24mm (almost 1 inch) plate material. I hope it all is going to work! I already have some doubs with one of the plates of the head but ill continue!

 

[Nena]

Almost done with the base faceting head! Hehehe the total height 32 cm!