⭐ Show Us Your Cut Stones - Before And After Photos

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LoneWolf said:
A nice set of ear rings there Panther... Mrs Wolf loves them and now wants some.... Guess I will just have to find her some... :D

LW....

Good luck. Have a few more I'm going to send to be done when I get time and hopefully can head out with the old man after the fires are done and look for more
 
Had a nice bit of Citrine in the box, so with a bit of time after Christmas between gardening and work did a cut I've wanted to do for a while. Not in a hurry to do it again.

1581145748_cleopatra_s-eye-6.45ct.jpg


Ended at 6.45ct, original stone was 24.6ct. 15 x 9.5mm
 
Wow Dihusky. It was just coincidence that I happened to look on PA just after you posted this. You really had me going. :)
Amazing work.
 
Not sure as I cut it over around 3 weeks, heaps of interruptions and I can normally only get a couple of undisturbed hours when I get home from work. All up probably around 20hrs I would estimate. Had to re-cut the crown a couple of times as one facet had to be cut on 50k, would fall apart if I used 8k so this took a while :(

Then I had alignment problems with girdle breaks to second tier of crown facets which surround the eye, so ended up floating the second tier to make the eye accurate and cut the breaks to line up. Then everything worked well :)

It was an interesting design to execute.
 
Thanks for the insite to the design Dihusky. Im defiantly not up to your standard yet. How would that look in a green or blue? Defanantly I would like to try in the future.
I was wondering if you could help me out with something? Ive started cutting some oval shapes 8 x 6 and a 12 x 9 in quarts and citrine but have ended up with the bow tie effect at the ends. Also trying to get the girdle the right size on the ends is difficult without over cutting the main end facets. What should I be looking at to make it a bit more uniform.They look ok but not great.

Harry.
 
Hi Harry, anyone can cut this provided their pre-polish and polish laps are flat, machine is accurate and they know how to 'push' facets if they are slightly out, but it is definitely not a beginners design.

Ovals are notorious for producing bow-ties, particularly when they have a keel as opposed to a culet. This is where oval designs that maintain a constant angle for the main pavilion facets work better, then have barion facets to control the shape. This does produce a deeper stone than a keel, but goes a long way to overcome the problem.

The Cleopatra's Eye cut is a good example, the stone has 24 main pavilion facets at the same angle, then the shape is controlled by 12 pairs of barions. The finished stone does not exhibit any bow tie effect. It's a Marquise shape so different from an oval but still retains the same potential problems.

The longer the oval ratio the worse the problem. I rarely cut ovals for this reason.

Look for oval designs where the pavilion mains sit within the optimum angles, clear quartz: 41-43 degrees, coloured can go to 45 degrees, and this will go a fair way to reducing the effect.

Girdle problems I can't really help without seeing what you are doing. Do you cut a witness facet before transferring? This allows you to set the alignment and create a 'master cheat' when you start on the crown. Once you've set a master cheat, it stays for all the crown work. It goes a long way to overcoming girdle break stepping, but might need a final little tweak once you do your first round of pre-polish.

If your lap is hollowed or your machine is not aligned, front to back across the full width of the lap, you are going to be battling to get your facets right. What machine are you using?

Hugh.
 

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