Liver of Sulfur

This thread can be moved if need be :Y:

First part Zinc sulfate, first bummings didn't have so had to go further

Not certain about the duracell for zinc so will have to wear the pinpointer out tonight for the chevron 9v :Y:

AtomRat said:

Just for the hell of it I ripped open a super heavy duty AA batt. Set of pliers, no probs! There was a different small amount of black goop on the top of mine, not exactly sure what it was, but all it contained was the carbon rod, manganese dioxide and end caps. To test if the case is zinc, (not aluminium) you can either put a drop of copper sulfate solution onto it and see if it turns white, or if you scrape up a thin slither of it with a sharp tool it will burn into a smoke where alloy will get hot and stay. Cant find my copper sulfate so will do that in morn. Burn test is a bit difficult to determine

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=66b64d333b928a43a0bfd77c1a4e1857&oe=594A081E

Click to expand...

The burn test confirms the Duracell are alloy cased AR, so will pull a chevron apart tomorrow
We got a sticky but didn't make it to the private :rainbow: arty: area :lol: :lol: :lol:
Almost forgot gota pick a couple of experiment penny's and clean and polish them up

The coins are being difficult not sure if the citric is too much, the Worcestershire is wearing them too much
Might have to make a mini soda blaster :/ they need to be spotless

Left is close but not close enough, maybe need to choose better coins that will clean easier 8)

Just removed the off track comments in this post.
Now, Stay on track please people.

Thanks Tathradj Today's progress report FAIL :lol: :lol: Tried too hard to make myself believe the chevron shell was zinc through multiple SG tests til I made it give me the SG of zinc :/ idiot :lol: :N: should have believed the burn test, I know what zinc burns like, Bang head :N:
I new it was alloy by the way it peeled off but at least found out how much heat I needed :lol:
Budget so far is $17 between the zinc sulfate and 99% zinc plate link for zinc below. Decided to bite the bullet and blow the 2 bob budget.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292014026553?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I used to have some zinc flashing but got recycled a while ago :/ but sure it would suffice if you have some around, also some newer wheel weights are made from zinc but not sure how pure they are.
I believe everyone is unsure about what's going on here because of the title so this is the first experiment, click below.
https://www.sciencecompany.com/Turn-Copper-Pennies-Into-Silver-and-Gold-Pennies.aspx
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_g_ml8tAnWE
For those unsure this thread is about creating patina, preserving, and special coatings and tricks for copper coins and relics :Y: not cleaning
For those interested stay tuned I'm trying to do it first without having to deal with Lab suppliers so anybody that feels confident can achieve it
I'm using a coffee peculator beaker, you can get cheap at either a vinnies or your local tip recycling center like the one at Nelson Bay, yes the one that says not for stove top :lol: :lol: as long as your careful you should not have a problem.
I sit it inside an old not for food ever again cast alloy pot as a heat sink to avoid it splitting, and if it did the liquid will be retained in the pot and not spill everywhere.
The first run will be done with a few BB's of varying cleanliness so I don't ruin a penny with a FAIL :lol: :lol: so I can make sure I know how clean it has to be :Y: Hoping not to have to clean them as far as the penny on the left in the above post
Please keep the thread clean so it's easy to follow, if you start on page one has a variety of different tricks to try and Atom Rat is going to have a go at a few along the lines of patina, this coating is a chemical plating process which starts as a zinc coating which can be left looking silver or heating alloys the zinc with copper to create a brass coating It' will be called THE SILVER OR GOLDEN PENNY'S :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Stay tuned while I wait for the postie to show, maybe the end of the week, if you follow you may not make the mistakes I have already :lol: :lol: :Y:
This is not a super toxic process but please don't drink contents or deliberately inhale for fun :lol: :lol: :lol: :Y:

:8 ...sorry about this coming suggestion B5MECH since you've now 'bit the bullet'...
Perhaps for your next time, you might try the metal scrappo's...scrap is not worth anything these days, cents on the dollar, except for recoverable's and copper.... :dunno:

Might be worth a try next time eh? (again,...sorry)

GGA

When I found the only AU listing for $6.99 and lab 99.9 grade I couldn't beat it, the fuel to get to Brookvale would have costed more and not sure how clean the scrap would be or if they had any as they cash in daily, I figured with Lab grade I'll be cutting cost by not making another mistake by being a tight a... :lol: :lol: :lol:
Every time I have to set it up is a waste if it goes wrong :Y:
Oh I went for the free post option so I can sit back and get the set up right before next attempt
I was a good dry learning run, I tried for bunnings but they don't sell zinc flashing anymore and the place I found the price was out of control
$160 a roll new :N:

B5 - my comments suggested to use a solution of copper sulfate on the probable zinc. It will turn white if its zinc not alloy or did u try this? Copper Sulfate. My chamelian was alloy case too. I certainly know the older D size batts like blackcats were zinc. Must be a newer brand thats using zinc still

1982 pennys from america are zinc, order a bag? Sorry for delays - head been elsewhere

whats happened to your two pennys in photo B5 is the same result as ehat i was getting sometimes while cleaning. The coins look soo ugly and why i had the idea to re petina

Maybe it is still in the bigger D size..

[video=480,360]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC5q9mDKUCo[/video]

The victim that will be sacrificed first :lol: :lol: :lol: Nice one AR I like his style :lol: :lol: I don't have copper sulfate but was thinking I have a little of copper nitrate would that give the same effect? Ahhhh the inner shell is zinc the outer is alloy 8)
I wonder if the manganese dioxide could be used in a controlled way to add a patina might be a little corrosive but somehow watered down

I have used it on some coin rings I made. I'll try dig up a pic.

Im actually going to call my Camelean battery AA a zinc case. Cutting.up a few thin slithers of it and burning.turns it into ash after a blue white flame puff

I dont have zinc sulphate at hand right now but using a bit of the battery case id attempt galvanizing a nail first then some electroplating onto a 2c

Need to work on the process a little but first test results :lol: :lol: :lol: :Y: silver BB's :Y: I'll throw them back in tomorrow to fully coat them and try the brown ones, think because they were sitting flat had to pull them out and do the other side
It was a little slower than the link of ten minutes but his zinc sulfate maybe a better grade so will overdose it next run Results 8)










I think the trick was to allow an air gap under the coin so the zinc will plate it fully
Yeah winning :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :Y: when the coat is solid I'll heat alloy them to gold, decided to use a stainless offcut which I'll heat underside with a map gas torch as it has to get to 300 degree :rainbow: arty:

Looks like its given it a decent coating first shot mate nice job!

I think I'll mix a larger amount of liquid so I can add more as it boils down, the adding more water and throwing more sulfate powder might have slowed it a bit :lol: :lol: It was easier that I thought, no headless panicking chicken running around this time :lol: :lol: :Y:
I think 15 to 20 minutes would be a better time to aim at
It looks like the coating might fill the pits nicely too

Golden BB's :lol: :lol: the browner BB's are having issues

The browner ones have 'oxidised' and been coated with hand oils etc over decades before you finding them. Try Armorall 'CLEANER' to remove surface reside, this will improve the conductivity, and transference of salts. Just be sure to rinse it with water afterwards and before entering your solution.

I use Armorall Cleaner to strip hydraulic fluid out of the porous coatings on hydraulic rams, so should work on this.

It's also on the shelf at your friendly Woolworths stores for about $10-12(here in GT at least) and for those you will have enough for years to come.

That's the 'sweat-free' option, or...you could just 'activate' the surface with a scotch-brite pad to a 'pinkish' finish for best results, but use a few more muscles.

Both options are 'scratch' safe and one uses chemicals...but you 'are' dipping them, so shouldn't be an impediment to use.

:Y: