White's new TDI-PRO ( Oz ) Series....

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Cheers Ben' is there a easy way to cancel out hot rocks and hot ground as you find it? My guess was to turn the delay up a bit to see if it disappears then back down and keep going?
 
You can flick the conductivity switch to low and you'll lose most hot rocks but you'll still get the clay domes. With the switch on low you can lose big nuggets though so it's a trade off. I'm not a fan of upping the delay, I see it as essentially dropping the sensitivity to see if a sound goes away which means you could lose a good target. Always dig the high tones!
 
Well after a 6hour hunt today I must say the TDI is a very interesting machine iv done a lot of research on the TDI which has defiantly payed off and proves to run fine where other machines iv had won't. Does not have the depth the minelab does but runs a hell of a lot smoother also lighter & cheeper.
 
I've been down the local park playing around few short visits now for about half hour a time and it can be ran quiet as a mouse that was impressive. In high conductivity you can tune out 50,20,10,5 cents and only dig $1 & $2 at a GB of around 5. It still will detect some other metals like alum bottle caps but no more tin foil crap for me, Unfortunately to dig 50c means too much unwanted trash as the cross over between the two is very close. It's a PITA to pin point but I want the TRX pin pointer anyway, then I won't make such a mess digging so I'm going to hold off for a week or so then head in for my first official park hunt. Will post pic's in a few weeks and hopefully of a few finds.
 
I just wanted to rekindle this topic as I only just recently (like tonight) started looking into the Whites SPP, and while doing so the TDI-Pro (Oz Series) caught my eye.

Has anyone had any more experience with this detector? I'm interested in your thoughts, pros and cons etc, and lastly... Is it worth the $2000 outlay?
 
Anyone looking at buying a TDI Pro Oz watch out for these 2nd hand.

The last one I saw on that Auction site with standard coil, 6" coil and a NF coil sold
for less than $1400 and was about a year old and included the receipts. This sold
in around Jan 2014.
 
One of the biggest problems all pulse detectors have is they miss seeing many fine gold specimens .

Have seen a ML 4500 unable to signal on a specimen an old VLF did easy . :/
 
Hi Nugget, I have been using the TDI for some months now & it is a steep learning curve however I cannot comment on how it goes with gold( except gold rings) but with coin & relic hunting it has done well.. to date have found 2 rings, 1 gold mans large wedding band, 1 silver/white gold?? band, many decimal coins & hopefully today I have found my first pre-decimal. Anyway I haven't worked out the discrimination ability on the machine but I am getting there.
 
Thanks guys, It'll be a little while before I can afford another detector but I'll definitely do a little more research before hand. I'll be buying specifically for gold detecting.
 
Quick question for those in the know, was talking to a guy today in an area that would make any machine a bit grumpy, and i asked if he'd had any luck. Turns out he had using a tdi, so i got to asking questions and he his me with the revelation it will only respond correctly with a mono, the machine can only be fitted with a mono, it won't operate a DD? !!! Now without trawling through the posts is this correct?
 
A DD coil works fine on any TDI model, a small DD coil swept super slow is meant to be better on tiny gold but I'm yet to test. There is a tough learning curve with the TDI but I'm starting to enjoy using it now and once you understand the basic controls properly it's very easy to turn on and go.
 
There you go, I was scratching my head when he told me. I knew you would know, so thanks for letting me know.
 
Hi Wal ,I notice you have been detecting in WA, just wondering what the signs to look for , gold bearing areas. just a newby at this game
but getting very frustrated at going out and coming home with nothing except sore back and empty petrol tank. I am using a gpx5000 with the same
settings that my friend uses (who always comes home with pieces of gold) and from the same area that I detect in. I must say I have picked up a lot of nails
and small bits of wire and tin. Maybe you can point me in the right direction, any advice would be appreciated.
 
rapta7 said:
Hi Wal ,I notice you have been detecting in WA, just wondering what the signs to look for , gold bearing areas. just a newby at this game
but getting very frustrated at going out and coming home with nothing except sore back and empty petrol tank. I am using a gpx5000 with the same
settings that my friend uses (who always comes home with pieces of gold) and from the same area that I detect in. I must say I have picked up a lot of nails
and small bits of wire and tin. Maybe you can point me in the right direction, any advice would be appreciated.
https://www.prospectingaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=2042
Hi rapta7. Have a look through these. Alot of handy info put up by loamer. Hope it helps.
Greg
 
Hi there Greg, yes I see Loamer is a whizz on the subject , but I am just wondering whether these comments apply in our highly mineralized soils
in W.A Kalgoorlie and surrounding areas. not many streams , gullies creeks etc . I have been told by several that the place has been thrashed but maybe as
a newby I might stumble on a patch ..who knows. thanks for the info mate
 
A quick question for the guys hunting nuggets with the TDI Pro, can I ask what settings you're using?

I'm especially interested in the position of the conductivity selector. I've been reading that most small nuggets register in the low-conductivity range due to the inclusion of other metals EXCEPT for Australian nuggets which seem to register more in the high-conductivity range due to their higher purity. So, from what I can gather the selector should be set in the high or all position. Is this truly this the case?

I have several nuggets which I plan on testing the detector with when it arrives, but for now I'm just trying to get a head start on the control functions.
 
dave14110 said:
I have seen a tdi pro been used, I detected a token at a club event with my Xterra (it wasn't deep maybe 10 cm) as this kid ( newbie at club)walked up from behind I said to him there is a signal there he run his machine over it got the signal. Droped the machine suddenly in excitment from at most a foot from ground as he started to dig. As he did I heard the pop rivet pop out holding control box to shaft. I try to tell him but he didn't relize as he stood up the control box was hanging by the wires to the rest of machine. I then got his attention and he passed it to his Dad. Now while I felt sorry for him and he should of taken more care, it was not dropped from a great height & shouldn't of broken as easy as it did.
My first thoughts of machine was that is not good, even over time these would not last regardless of how careful someone is with machine.
I do regard some of whites products better built than other brands, Example is the whites surf PI it is cheaper and built better and works as good if not better than it's oposition.
I was thinking the same as you until this time but now would get a Sd 2200 for my kids before this machine.

dave14110 said:
The only fault I have with the TDI Pro is the way it is just pop rivet to shaft. I watched it simple fall apart right in front of me Very poorly constructed in my opinion. If the control box is remove from the shaft as suggested it affects the balance of the whole machine. Whereas the White surf & Garrett infinium are both still PI and work very much like the TDI but are built better.

The control box is screwed onto the shaft not riveted (for hip and chest mounting ability), it may have been a different model.
 

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