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tumbler for panning

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That's brilliant Mudgee. Also looking forward to a video of it in operation. Can see a few of those old council recycle bins going missing. Well, there pretty much obsolete now anyway. Looks like a washing machine tub in a wheelie bin is next.
 
Ha, yep. When I lived in sydney with 3 other blokes, our house was the only house that the driver of the recycled truck would get out and give his offsider a hand to load the beer bottles years ago! Lol
 
Awh, sorry people. I met up with Balmain Bob, Muzz and his wife that day on the Meroo.
The Meroo didn't even have a flow, so I ended up trying a different tatic that was less then bad.
It wasnt untill the very last 40kg of dirt I processed in the banker I got a tiny bit of color.
Worst day I have ever had out in the gold dept. But it was great to catch up with all of them.
But I intend to get out there Sunday and try it out further down stream.
it's still in the 4x4 all shiny.
 
Hey Mudgee, did you ever get around to using this beast, planning on building one today or tommorow and was just wondering weather youd do anything differently, yours looks the business by the way mate :Y:
Haydos
 
Hi haydos, not as yet. Sounds wrong hey. Things have been difficult for me lately to get out. But soon I hope. And will post results. Sent you a pm mate.
 
I've got enough punched sheet left over to make a 450mm deep x 300mm wide unit. Slightly deeper by 100mm.
Hunting for a good fish monger tub, stronger and larger. Handy for putting all your pans and crevicing tools in.
Take your time setting up the geometry of angle etc. Remembering to keep the lip at top above the top edge of tub.
and 45deg is probably the best angle for material capacity and tumble action. Alloy angle can easily be pop riveted on vertically for extra churning if needed.
The lower spigot shaft (gal pipe) needs to be long enough to get clearance on tilt action over tub. So make it a bit longer then needed, trim down to suit.
 
My brains telling me to try a hexagonal basket for a rougher tumbling action but it would put more stress on the tub and shaft maybe.
Will hold off until we get a performance report on yours :Y: as it may not need any changing :)
 
Im happy to answer any questions, and hear any input of modifications.
I do recommend a 3.5 up to 5mm holes. As smaller classification will speed clean up. Downside is that little nugget you might loose.
Punched sheet dose come in a variety of percentage punch. This is how many holes are in a certain square area. Basically how close the holes are together. The closer the better.
On stainless you mite notice one side is dimpled, and the other very flat and smooth. Keep the flat face on the inside. This helps avoid clogging/jambing of near sized material in the holes. Not normally noticeably on alloy, as it is punched easier without deformation.

Even black steel is fine to use. Spray the out side with cold gal. The inside will just get polished with use. Light coat if stored for a time.

the hinge was a heavy duty strap hinge, ($13) that is used for timber gates. The post side of hinge ( fitted at the top) was extended in surface size with a bit of black steel to spread the load over a larger area.
And flat bar was welded down each side of the gate side of hinge for stiffening.

The top half of the hinge will want to pull inwards to the tub, (higher load stressed area) the lower half (supporting axel) will want to push outwards to the wall of the tub.
Hence a backing plate wider than the top half of the hinge, fitted to the outside of the tub is recommended to spread the weights stress flex to the tub..
 
I finally got out to give it a test run. The first material I used was real hard dirt/clay. It worked great and fast for breaking it down.
I tried a lesser amount in the traditional way, and it made me appreciate it more.
The 4.7mm holes are a good starting size to use.
It took very little effort to spin and has a good body postion to use, not squatting over all the time.

Draw backs, and mods needed...
45deg angle left too much wasted punched sheet towards the top area, to help spread the material out better. ( Slowing down the process)
so I will be reducing the pitch.
This may lead me to retro fit a lip around the top edge (40mm) tapering to a cone shape for easier emptying.
This should allow for a flatter angle.

The tumbling action should be inproved after this modification. So I will leave the internal fins etc in place till then.

THE TUB.
it was ok, the tub only needs to be about 30mm either side of the drum.
For the best of ease of using it, set up and total emptying. At least 10 -15 shovels, or when the clearance to bottom of drum is lost. (Full).

MAJOR MODIFICATION...
only to the tub idea. Going to play with the idea of making another drum 50mm oversize to the tumbler drum, that is basically cut through at sea level. A bit like an old flour/sugar scoop.
with a simple large drain plug at the lowest point.
But that will be a few hours of pondering away yet.
 
Get that done and build it out of alloy so its pretty and patent it you will be on a money maker :D
Its probably my next build as i have been researching self feeding hoppers for sluices but they all seem to rely on material being classified to make them flow properly. .
I did see an awesome design that with a few tweeks would complement your rock washer perfectly as it would self feed while you were tumbling material , it seemed to handle wet gravel easily.
 
was thinking if ya have a tall tub then that would increase runtime and be even higher off the ground for bad backs?
 

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