Solar Panels - Information and Questions

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Ded Driver said:
hey CTXkid, in the 1st pic you have a slim square white thingy with a hole in it on top of the battery & the battery cable running thru it, it is a newer version of my olsparing pater Nightjars meter in his photos , his has a solid state shunt to do 5he measuring
Is this a type of Amp meter setup? or what is it? A sensor for the Victron power meter?
That is a hall effect sensor it runs the wifi battery monitoring for the remote 3.5in screen (not in photo) the white box with the USB plug in, the usb is recharging the shop lithium jump pack also out of photo
The blue box is a 75/15 mppt bluetoth controller, it is awesome to fiddle with charging characteristics
There more when the next couple posties turn up :cool:
 
Occasional_panner said:
Solar panel on top of a gas bottle storage container?

What would happen if one was leaking and you got some arcing from the panel connections?

Not a wise idea to put it there.
Yep

I usually lay the panels on it , but was chasing the afternoon sun in the photo

Making quality cabling/hardware makes me reasonably confident that is a one in a million chance of going caboom :perfect:
 
ctxkid said:
Ded Driver said:
hey CTXkid, in the 1st pic you have a slim square white thingy with a hole in it on top of the battery & the battery cable running thru it, it is a newer version of my olsparing pater Nightjars meter in his photos , his has a solid state shunt to do 5he measuring
Is this a type of Amp meter setup? or what is it? A sensor for the Victron power meter?
That is a hall effect sensor it runs the wifi battery monitoring for the remote 3.5in screen (not in photo) the white box with the USB plug in, the usb is recharging the shop lithium jump pack also out of photo
The blue box is a 75/15 mppt bluetoth controller, it is awesome to fiddle with charging characteristics
There more when the next couple posties turn up :cool:

CTXKid can you give us a link as to brand & where they come from. I like this idea. I never have been a fan of in-line shunt to measure current.
I would like to look into this further
any extra info you could give would be appreciated
cheers
DED
 
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Cheers for that CTXkid
hey by any chance would you (or anyone) know of a Li-Ion/LIFePo4 battery charger (with fly leads) that could be adapted/modified to charge 16x 3.7V 18650 batteries ganged to provide 7.4V & deliver around 1Amp/battery
 
my new usb's for my solar box setup , they're 5v 3amp so will charge anything that requires usb charging :power:

am also going to use a couple in the car , one to run the raseberrypi , photo's will follow as i progress :Y:

1552519299_img_20190314_101343.jpg
 
I use a fair bit of Sunyee stuff and its ok with me. Got a MPPT regulator to try in a day or so on a 150W FOLDABLE SOLAR SHEET from Supercheap for $299.
 
I spoke to the man at the solar shop today and I will be ordering 4 X 140w which is the maximum my Victron 100/20 Charge controller can handle, I always had an plan to aim for about 600w as my goal so I think they are close enough for what I want to achieve. :perfect:
 
Jaros said:

Yeah ive seen that one before. Good vid.

Ive had great success with the cheap ebay panels and controllers. I dont bother with ratings, readings etc as I go mostly by cost which has worked. Units with only 5m of cable are cheaper and ill be piffing the cable anyway.

First folding panel was a listed 80W and now mostly use a listed 160W folding set.

I buy larger dia cable to suit the amps and length. I run anderson plugs and can use these to make extension leads, double adaptors etc. I dont use aligator clips as i assume a loss through these. I run an Anderson plug wired to the battery with eye terminals. I remove the reg from the panel. I unsolder the ****** little dia wire from behind the panels and solder in directly decent gauge cable of about 500mm with and an Anderson plug. All connections are soldered. The reg is shifted to within 300mm of the battery. True or not, i was told the reg pulls better than pushes!

Im no expert. I read then i tinker. My system may not be up to scratch by those in the know but for donky years these have worked reliably and brilliant.

Ive had a good run with these ebay regs.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10A-60A...hash=item1a6fcfcba9:m:mXYMVzJ98zN_MR5RaDTXxgg

https://www.enerdrive.com.au/wp-content/uploads/cable-table-web.pdf
 
The differences listed above are largely due to the two types of solar regulators.
1. The standard regulator (PWM) just drops the voltage, but leaves the current. So, a 250W panel putting out around 20V (@ say 11A) , will have its voltage dropped to say 13.5V, meaning it's effectively putting out ~148W or around 59%. That's a lot of wasted charging power.
This is not the panel's fault, but the PWM charge controller's inefficient design. It is not tracking the panel's maximum power point which may be 18V & 14A. This is generally specified on the panel. The PWM controller is also dumping the voltage difference (20-13.5 =6.5V) times the current (11A) giving 71.5W as wasted heat.
You've saved on the cost of a better controller, but your efficiency is way down.
2. Now try using an MPPT (maximum power point tracking) controller. (they cost more).
These units intelligently constantly change their front end loads to accurately track the panel's maximum power point (which varies with incident solar power.)
With an efficiency of ~90 - 95%, they convert the input power from say 250W to match the battery's charge state (say 13.5V).
So, with an input of 250W, an output of say 90% efficiency or 225W, this means they are providing 13.5V at 16.7A.
Note that the charging current has actually gone up!
So, these units not only track the solar panel's maximum output power point, but they provide a dc-dc converter, reducing the charging voltage to match the battery, but increasing the current.
So, with this MPPT controller investment you've gone from ~59% efficiency to 90+% efficiency with a corresponding increase in maximum charging current from 11A to 16.7A in full sun.
You've spent good money for good solar panels - don't buy more panels taking up more room and requiring constant moving, just a better controller (MPPT) - there are hundreds out there, and you'll save big time in the long run.
It's not rocket science, just intelligent technology.
 
Comes down to your application/needs. For a basic camping setup there is no need to get too pedantic. Youll only end up spending beyond what is necessary.

1557568568_52639c24-5618-4fe7-9f73-a7bfcf9d09be.jpg
 
Jaros said:

I have purchased many items from sunyee and when there has been warranty issues they have bent over backwards to do the right thing.

What I have to say though with flexible solar panels is dont fasten them to your roof with cable ties like mister YouTube bloke.

Air Turbulence when driving can kill them as they will flap and flutter like a beach.

I get a sheet of 2 or 3 mm aluminium perforated mesh with around 4 - 10 mm holes in it and I fasten the panel to it with high quality 3M or Tesa double sided tape spaced around 100 mm apart.

The reason I use perforated mesh is to allow cooling air to flow around the back of the panel while the Ali sheet supports the panel to prevent damage.

Mister YouTube bloke will find his panels cracked and not working after a couple of years of what he is doing.
 

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