Question for the tradesmen..

[nucopia]

Question for the tradees out there..

How to address the issue or what to use to seal between the bottom edge of the wall cladding where it sits on the bottom seal plate.
Over the years for what ever reason its become a problem allowing water to pool there after rain and is causing mould on the interior walls.
Its also caused rot in some of the wood underneath the metal seal plate which needs to be replaced
I imagine I will need to use some type of water proof caulking compound to fill and water proof the gap
Hope some once can suggest a product and technique for dealing with this issue.
Thanks

 

[Guest]

Easy fix.
You just need to take off the damage, repair the damaged sections and then you need to replace the water logged areas with that section with a metal Deflector, especially made for these water logged areas.
The metal sections are installed to repell water and keep it dry.

 

[Ridge Runner]

With the Timber I would Paint the new timbers fully before you fit them then I would use the same silicone that Double Glazing window fitters use between the boards IE where the top of one meets the bottom of another and then once the metal is back in place then seal Behind the lower edge of the metal and put it back in place, Then Clean off the silicone excess then Caulk all along the edge where the metal meets the wood and use that Metal edging D4G suggested and that should do the trick,

Good Luck. :Y:

 

[Mackka]

Yes very important to paint the back of boards to stop moisture ingress from behind.
Mackka

 

[nucopia]

Easy fix.
You just need to take off the damage, repair the damaged sections and then you need to replace the water logged areas with that section with a metal Deflector, especially made for these water logged areas.
The metal sections are installed to repell water and keep it dry.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.co...ages/9078/1619564759_sketch-1619564739567.jpg

I was thinking along the same lines but wanted to avoid removing the cladding sheets ..
I guess I can pull the lower nails that hold on the lower part of the sheets and try and slip the metal deflector up behind the cladding sheets and then screw through the cladding and the deflector making sure to use tech screws with the rubber grommets to keep water out ..
Replacing the wood is the easy fix ..understanding the best solution to seal between the cladding and the lower seal plate was the conundrum I had ..

 

[nucopia]

I will probably have to make a special order have the deflector plates bent to the correct angles as well..

 

[Guest]

Easy fix.
You just need to take off the damage, repair the damaged sections and then you need to replace the water logged areas with that section with a metal Deflector, especially made for these water logged areas.
The metal sections are installed to repell water and keep it dry.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.co...ages/9078/1619564759_sketch-1619564739567.jpg

I was thinking along the same lines but wanted to avoid removing the cladding sheets ..
I guess I can pull the lower nails that hold on the lower part of the sheets and try and slip the metal deflector up behind the cladding sheets and then screw through the cladding and the deflector making sure to use tech screws with the rubber grommets to keep water out ..
Replacing the wood is the easy fix ..understanding the best solution to seal between the cladding and the lower seal plate was the conundrum I had ..

Whichever way you go, do not use silicone, as it will create moister spots for future timber rot

 

[Dihusky]

Hopefully the metal apron flashing at the base of the wall sheets hasn't rusted out, otherwise it will be a bigger job. You could have a flashing folded like diggin4gold's drawing but with a higher vertical so it can be tucked under the apron flashing and flash over the joists down to the base slats, eliminating the rotting boards. Just fix with sealed hex head screws. Use colourbond and you won't have to paint.

 

[Goldtarget]

Are they the old school cement sheet cladding?

Also which facing is this side of the house?

 

[Balmain Bob]

As a trade qulified builder with 30 years epirience building houses the following things jump right out at me from the photos provided

1. The cladding appears to be fibro constuction and quite possibly contains asbestos, so be very carefull around it/
2. The cladding should have been run horozontally not vertically as it has been
This could be causing the leaks that are responsoble for the mould on the inside.
Water will be penetrating down the verticle joins in the boards.
A good surface prep and use of a sealing agent on the boards joints prior to the application of a quiallity paint would go along way , if
not, stopping the penetration of moisture into the wall cavity.
3. I would also be looking at the sealing around the windows as this can be an entry point for moisture during rain. Especially the sides of
the windows.
4. A metal flashing does need to be inserted behing the base of the cladding. 50mm high would be sufficant.
It would be easier to remove the corner coverstrips to insert the flashing after removing the nails. Prior to attempting to remove the
nails
give the wall a good hose down. (if it is fibro as it appears to me in the photos) to dampen down any fibres that may become air bourne.
Once the flashng is in place use a hex head screw say 45mm long to fasten the sheets back down. about 30mm up from the base of the
flashing.
5. Allow a 5mm gap from the bottom of the cladding to the flashing. There would be no need to seal along this edge as the water would
not be able to penetrate the metal flashing and would not rise the 50mm up behind the boards. It will also allow for the movement of air
up the joinst in the boards

Cheers

Balmain Bob

 

[Upside]

Easy fix.
You just need to take off the damage, repair the damaged sections and then you need to replace the water logged areas with that section with a metal Deflector, especially made for these water logged areas.
The metal sections are installed to repell water and keep it dry.

https://www.prospectingaustralia.co...ages/9078/1619564759_sketch-1619564739567.jpg

Toe mold flashing is the name. Yep it should have. Issue is it should be installed before cladding.

 

[Upside]

I've been in this trade for about 30 years. Heres the quick solution to your issue without going to the extent of removing what looks like asbestos sheets , and not costing alot.

Yes, as pointed out it should have had a toe mold before sheeted. Too late now. Unless you wanna re clad. $$$ and then add about $30k for asbestos removal which I'd bet it is by the pics.

The bottom of the sheets is meant to have gaps to allow air flow. Your issue is the 1st row of timber sits too proud. Remove it, the top timber plank, and plane it down on an angle so when you put it back on, the top of the timber sits below the high point of the sheeting.

If the timbers rotten, replace it.

Then re paint timber with a good exterior paint.

Done.

 

[Upside]

Ps, photo 4 shows your issue to me.

The inside wall mould issue will go once it dries out. Just re paint it once you fix the main issue.

 

[nucopia]

I dont think its fibro I thought it was some type of metal sheeting not sure what ..
House was built in the late 80s .
..
Mould only appears in the interior walls of the 2 back bedrooms and on 1 wall of each rooms from the lower skirting board up about 12 to 18 inches after heavy rain.
This is an approximation of the erea inside the wall that is affected ..same on the opposite corner of the house, which corresponds to the interior wall that has mould in that bedroom..it has a similar gap between the cladding and bottom plate both are concave and trap water..

No leaks in the roof or damp spots in the ceilings in either room and nothing around any of the windows ,but when Im there on the weekend Ill check around to windows to make sure they are sealed.
To me it seems the damp is rising up from these 2 opposing corners at the rear of the house as there are no mould issues anywhere else inside the house..

 

[Upside]

Ok, you need to buy a bigger toe mold then. Unscrew the 1st row of screws and slide it under. Something like 60mm behind the wall, 45 degree angle off the house, then back to the ground.

 

[nucopia]

Balmain Bob Upside
Thanks ..

 

[Balmain Bob]

The timber below the cladding has only rotted because there was no gap left between the slat below it and the bottom of the board below the cladding. When you remove and replace the board just leave a 5 to 10 mm gap and the water wont sit there and penetrate the timber.

Whether the cladding is fibro or metal is it still put on the wrong way!

A photo from the corner of the house taken the other way to the shot in post 14 would also help.

 

[Guest]

Yes, definitely need to check the windows to see if the flashing is doing its job.
I've seen tradies install flashing, only for show, but everytime it rains the water penetrates the flashing ends and runs down inside the walls where it sits and creates these mouldy areas.

 

[nucopia]

The timber below the cladding has only rotted because there was no gap left between the slat below it and the bottom of the board below the cladding. When you remove and replace the board just leave a 5 to 10 mm gap and the water wont sit there and penetrate the timber.

Whether the cladding is fibro or metal is it still put on the wrong way!

A photo from the corner of the house taken the other way to the shot in post 14 would also help.

When Im there on the weekend I take a few more pictures as suggested Bob

 

[Goldtarget]

If they are metal mate shouldnt be an issue to do a bit of an inspection for ingress, had they been fibro I would have suggested starting a search from the interior walls whilst someone else sprays a bit of water around.

By my reckoning theres two distict problems, ingress and mould, neither which I envy you to have to attend to. Odds on you will have to pull floor coverings and internal sheet anyway, might not hurt to start there.

Whether the mould is a result of pooling creating a wicking rise or creeping rot through bearers or skirts will only be answered when you locate the source of damp entering, should be quick to spot whatever is causing it once you start having a look external or internal.