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Chapter 1.
Coke Bottles, Old Warriors and Iron Bottom Sound - Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands
I have some nice old bottles I have found over the years. A few years back I was deployed to the Solomon Islands, ended up being there for two years and got to know a few parts of Guadalcanal and Malaita Islands. The waters between Guadalcanal and the Florida's is called Iron Bottom Sound and with good reason, 32 Allied and at least 18 Japanese ships sleep on the sea bed. So it is with good reason that for the sailors, airmen and soldiers who served in the area during that time, Iron Bottom Sound is considered a cemetery and sacred, much the same as Pearl Harbour and the USS Arizona memorial.
During the 63rd Anniversary of the US landings on Red Beach out near Tetere, a small group of US Veterans visited our lines and we hosted them for a dinner. Grand old warriors, gentlemen all of them and one of those moments in my life that I am humble to have had: The men that were there, giving us a first hand account of contacts and battles, killings and casualties right where they had happened, you could see them re-living their history. Powerful stuff. The gentleman who had organised the visit was a Royal Air Force Bomber Command pilot who had survived many missions over The Channel to Germany and had retired to Florida in the USA.
You don't have to go far to find chunks of old rusty iron on the beaches around Honiara as not far west towards Bonegi Beach and beyond, seven Japanese ships found their watery graves. One, the supply ship Hirokawa Maru was beached by her captain before sinking and the bow and a fair amount of deck are exposed at low tide. I have free dived on it quite a few times, it never lost its thrill. Up behind Honiara is the US War Memorial that is maintained by the US Government and has a commanding view over the sound and Savo Island. Savo is a live volcano that is owned by one of the former Solomon Island Prime Ministers. I cant remember his name, I would have to check my diary notes of my visit but, I do recall that he had been knighted. It is a magnificent view, I used to visit there sometimes and along with quiet contemplation, I would imagine what the naval and air battles where like; the monstrous anger and 'wump, wump' of heavy naval artillery, the thumping punch and staccato of 30 and 50 cal. machine guns and, the terrifying screams of supercharged radial engines over revving in a terminal dive.
I spent a bit of time exploring, with the help of the locals, around the hinterland villages along Bonegi Creek. We were shown aircraft crash sites and the site of a US military dump. The dump was just a ridge-line that dropped off into a deep gulch were hundred of tons of rubbish and then surplus was dumped. I used to head that way on Sunday arvo's when I could get a Troopie to use and spent hours down in that gulch in the steaming jungle scrounging and ratting through it all. Most was rusted or corroded away from the constant tropical coastal conditions but I did find some interesting relics.
One of the more common refuse items from the war are old US made 6 Fl Oz coke bottles. All have the date and place of manufacture cast into them on or around the base, for example 'Oakland Calif' & 'San Francisco Calif'. Most are a light green glass but some very late ones were clear glass. They could be found washed up after a storm along the coast, in the jungle or on some of the outer islands, huge middens of them the locals had piled up.
Another place I liked to visit and managed to take my children to on a return trip to the Solomons after the civil war had ended, is Red Beach. Red Beach is a long flat and repetitively level beach that is the site where the US Marines landed in AmTracs on 7th August 1942. Amtracs are amphibious landing craft that look very much like a small tank or APC, but are made of light gauge steel and the tracks have cast aluminium 'cleats' in place of rubber or steel friction plates that work like a paddle steamers wheel. There are still 96 Amtracs lined up as in a parking lot, a few hundred metres from the shore line and just behind the leaf hut of the man who's great grand father met the Marine Colonel as the Marines landed and secured the beach head. There are also half a dozen or so of the rusting hulks of these near 75 year old machines scattered about the front of the leaf hut and for a small consideration the owner of the custom land and leaf hut will show you about. If you are luck, he will proudly show you his old sepia photos of his Great Grandfather with the Colonel, with the Colonels written account of the event written in his hand on the back of the old photo. More living history that I feel very fortunate to have experienced.
Inside the first 4 months of my tour, I was posted to a Provincial coastal town called Maluu on the tip of Malaita Island. Our long house looked down from a small plateau over the bay that was formed by reefs, sand bars and the near by Basacana Island that lay a bout 1000m off shore. I used to pay $50 Solomon ($AUS9.00) for a big chaff bag full of live lobsters and about $2 Sol for the biggest mud crabs I have ever seen, the claws where the same size as my hands. Yep, we ate well which sort of made up a little for being in such a remote and phucked up part of the work with no phones and the usual attendant deprivations of mission life.
In the bay, there was a Japanese Zero that had crashed into the shallows of the bay in 1942 and ended belly-up. The pilot survived the crash but the local village chiefs decided his punishment as an enemy was death so they removed his head. I could not find out what happened to the body but cannibalism is documented as being widely practiced on Malaita where the people although now Christian, still have strong beliefs in animism and witchcraft and are very superstitious. The Solomon Islands still has Anti-Sorcery legislation and sorcery is today an offence under both state and customary laws in Solomon Islands. Sorcery in Solomon Islands can refer to an act or action that causes serious sickness or illness that could result in misfortune, insanity or death if no customary means of cure is given to the victim.
The Penal Code, Chap. 26, S. 190 refers to sorcery as:
i) the performance of any magical ritual where there is a general belief
among a class of persons that may result in harm to any person; or
ii) the possession of articles (without lawful excuse) commonly
associated by any class of persons with harmful magic.
I cant say that I am a believer in much beyond that which is tangible and explained in science but the locals are ***** scared of this stuff and have some very strange (to us) practices and beliefs. Lots of 'Tambu' places with skulls and creepy stuff and when people get 'Big Sick', very often locals believe that s sorcerer is at work.
Ok, enough of my reminiscences for one evening.
Regards,
The Peacekeeper
Coke Bottles, Old Warriors and Iron Bottom Sound - Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands
I have some nice old bottles I have found over the years. A few years back I was deployed to the Solomon Islands, ended up being there for two years and got to know a few parts of Guadalcanal and Malaita Islands. The waters between Guadalcanal and the Florida's is called Iron Bottom Sound and with good reason, 32 Allied and at least 18 Japanese ships sleep on the sea bed. So it is with good reason that for the sailors, airmen and soldiers who served in the area during that time, Iron Bottom Sound is considered a cemetery and sacred, much the same as Pearl Harbour and the USS Arizona memorial.
During the 63rd Anniversary of the US landings on Red Beach out near Tetere, a small group of US Veterans visited our lines and we hosted them for a dinner. Grand old warriors, gentlemen all of them and one of those moments in my life that I am humble to have had: The men that were there, giving us a first hand account of contacts and battles, killings and casualties right where they had happened, you could see them re-living their history. Powerful stuff. The gentleman who had organised the visit was a Royal Air Force Bomber Command pilot who had survived many missions over The Channel to Germany and had retired to Florida in the USA.
You don't have to go far to find chunks of old rusty iron on the beaches around Honiara as not far west towards Bonegi Beach and beyond, seven Japanese ships found their watery graves. One, the supply ship Hirokawa Maru was beached by her captain before sinking and the bow and a fair amount of deck are exposed at low tide. I have free dived on it quite a few times, it never lost its thrill. Up behind Honiara is the US War Memorial that is maintained by the US Government and has a commanding view over the sound and Savo Island. Savo is a live volcano that is owned by one of the former Solomon Island Prime Ministers. I cant remember his name, I would have to check my diary notes of my visit but, I do recall that he had been knighted. It is a magnificent view, I used to visit there sometimes and along with quiet contemplation, I would imagine what the naval and air battles where like; the monstrous anger and 'wump, wump' of heavy naval artillery, the thumping punch and staccato of 30 and 50 cal. machine guns and, the terrifying screams of supercharged radial engines over revving in a terminal dive.
I spent a bit of time exploring, with the help of the locals, around the hinterland villages along Bonegi Creek. We were shown aircraft crash sites and the site of a US military dump. The dump was just a ridge-line that dropped off into a deep gulch were hundred of tons of rubbish and then surplus was dumped. I used to head that way on Sunday arvo's when I could get a Troopie to use and spent hours down in that gulch in the steaming jungle scrounging and ratting through it all. Most was rusted or corroded away from the constant tropical coastal conditions but I did find some interesting relics.
One of the more common refuse items from the war are old US made 6 Fl Oz coke bottles. All have the date and place of manufacture cast into them on or around the base, for example 'Oakland Calif' & 'San Francisco Calif'. Most are a light green glass but some very late ones were clear glass. They could be found washed up after a storm along the coast, in the jungle or on some of the outer islands, huge middens of them the locals had piled up.
Another place I liked to visit and managed to take my children to on a return trip to the Solomons after the civil war had ended, is Red Beach. Red Beach is a long flat and repetitively level beach that is the site where the US Marines landed in AmTracs on 7th August 1942. Amtracs are amphibious landing craft that look very much like a small tank or APC, but are made of light gauge steel and the tracks have cast aluminium 'cleats' in place of rubber or steel friction plates that work like a paddle steamers wheel. There are still 96 Amtracs lined up as in a parking lot, a few hundred metres from the shore line and just behind the leaf hut of the man who's great grand father met the Marine Colonel as the Marines landed and secured the beach head. There are also half a dozen or so of the rusting hulks of these near 75 year old machines scattered about the front of the leaf hut and for a small consideration the owner of the custom land and leaf hut will show you about. If you are luck, he will proudly show you his old sepia photos of his Great Grandfather with the Colonel, with the Colonels written account of the event written in his hand on the back of the old photo. More living history that I feel very fortunate to have experienced.
Inside the first 4 months of my tour, I was posted to a Provincial coastal town called Maluu on the tip of Malaita Island. Our long house looked down from a small plateau over the bay that was formed by reefs, sand bars and the near by Basacana Island that lay a bout 1000m off shore. I used to pay $50 Solomon ($AUS9.00) for a big chaff bag full of live lobsters and about $2 Sol for the biggest mud crabs I have ever seen, the claws where the same size as my hands. Yep, we ate well which sort of made up a little for being in such a remote and phucked up part of the work with no phones and the usual attendant deprivations of mission life.
In the bay, there was a Japanese Zero that had crashed into the shallows of the bay in 1942 and ended belly-up. The pilot survived the crash but the local village chiefs decided his punishment as an enemy was death so they removed his head. I could not find out what happened to the body but cannibalism is documented as being widely practiced on Malaita where the people although now Christian, still have strong beliefs in animism and witchcraft and are very superstitious. The Solomon Islands still has Anti-Sorcery legislation and sorcery is today an offence under both state and customary laws in Solomon Islands. Sorcery in Solomon Islands can refer to an act or action that causes serious sickness or illness that could result in misfortune, insanity or death if no customary means of cure is given to the victim.
The Penal Code, Chap. 26, S. 190 refers to sorcery as:
i) the performance of any magical ritual where there is a general belief
among a class of persons that may result in harm to any person; or
ii) the possession of articles (without lawful excuse) commonly
associated by any class of persons with harmful magic.
I cant say that I am a believer in much beyond that which is tangible and explained in science but the locals are ***** scared of this stuff and have some very strange (to us) practices and beliefs. Lots of 'Tambu' places with skulls and creepy stuff and when people get 'Big Sick', very often locals believe that s sorcerer is at work.
Ok, enough of my reminiscences for one evening.
Regards,
The Peacekeeper