Gold Hog Mats

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Yeah I KNOW it doesnt matter, but I FEEL like it sucks. Its a battle between logic and emotions...and logic is having a hard time haha.

I'll probably leave it as is since I might design and print out some of my own soon.
 
I'd be picky too with the colour the first ones are GARRETT green so the gold will be easily seen but the other looks like a hi-vis colour 8) makes your eyes sting in bright sunlight, It's looking good though ;)
 
B5MECH said:
I'd be picky too with the colour the first ones are GARRETT green so the gold will be easily seen but the other looks like a hi-vis colour 8) makes your eyes sting in bright sunlight, It's looking good though ;)

Yeah I specifically got that original green as it seemed the best, and now this new one is bright enough indoors on an overcast day thay outside on a sunny day it will, as you say, sting the eyes. At least it'll just be the two upper mats under the header box.

limpalot said:
Try it with what you have made and put some carpet in the bottom end. At least you will know how it works.

True I could just wait the week and test it minus two mats in the meantime. I'd would like to get it done though. I'll see...
 
How was theprinter to setup assemble.
Gold will look good in both those colours.
It is good to keep some slick plate before the mat if possible. One of my sluices has about 6ft gh mat with gorilla taped sides. The tape ensures most material travels the mat. The mat even when reversed is sometimes reluctant to release all gold. If you can't bend your mat rig a hose fromthe highbankerto spray the grooves with the mat vertically in the sluice and a large catch bucket at the discharge end.
hope you can't see the green because og yellow.

Barry
 
The printer was easy as to assemble. You can get different kits with different things that come pre assembled. I didnt have to do and soldering or anything too crazy. Basically just fitting parts together, adding pulleys or whatever etc and doing up little nuts and bolts. It comes with step by step instructions with photos (in badly translated english but its good enough and good for a laugh). Its so easy that we didnt use the instructions at all (although admittedly we (my housemate and I) could have done it much quicker if we did use them...but we're like that...we like to figure things out ourselves).

In regards to the slick plate I thought the same thing. I even posted on the Gold Hog forums (http://goldprospectingforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=3466) asking about what setup to use and it ended up being about a slick plate. Read the link I provided (I'm DigginForGold). I dont think I will go with a slick plate now. But Id love you or anyone else to weigh in as Im still on the fence.

And yeah Im hoping to connect them all permanently and then hoping I'll be able to slide it out as one, then pop it on its edge and wash water over it on the sluice with a bucket at the end as you say and hopefully it'll be fairly quick to clean up.
 
Believe it or not pink is a great colour to show gold it stands out like the proverbial I have been told
 
A slick plate in that design starts the liquefaction.
The ore drops straight down then starts running forwards before it hits the matting.
You will get better separation of your heavies with one. :)
If any thing, Put a boiler box in with a sloped outlet facing towards the matting.
 
Now you have me thinking. firstly how are you going to clean it out, as it is solid.
2nd, if you where to print out the same thing, but in reverse, you could use it as a mold, and if that's the case, not only would it be flexible and easy to clean out, it would be 1 solid mat.
 
I would glue them together with Sikaflex.
Rough the joining area's up a bit them join them.
That way you can separate them later with a bit of effort. :)
 
Gaz&Al said:
Believe it or not pink is a great colour to show gold it stands out like the proverbial I have been told
I'd believe that. Probably wont ever find out first hand thpugh :)

Tathradj said:
A slick plate in that design starts the liquefaction.
The ore drops straight down then starts running forwards before it hits the matting.
You will get better separation of your heavies with one. :)
If any thing, Put a boiler box in with a sloped outlet facing towards the matting.
Yeah thats what I would have thought but they confused me over there at the other forum. I'll have to consider the boiler box idea :)

Rusty_G said:
Epic topic, great work PotOfGold! Looking forward to hearing how it runs!:)
Haha thanks :) Hopefully it doesnt turn out to be an epic failure!

XIV said:
Now you have me thinking. firstly how are you going to clean it out, as it is solid.
2nd, if you where to print out the same thing, but in reverse, you could use it as a mold, and if that's the case, not only would it be flexible and easy to clean out, it would be 1 solid mat.
Firstly, way ahead or you :D Have been looking into maybe making a mould and then doing it with a 2 part liquid polyurethane. Its not cheap but should make better mat. Theres so many differnt types with different hardness and stuff so Im a little overwhelmed and am not sure whoch one to use but I sent of a couple of emails so hopefully they'll get back to me with some advice. If anyone else has any advice on what I shoukd use please let me know. Secondly, I dont really get how its solidness is going to make it hard to clean out. Ill clean it out as I do my AM sluice which is also hard...I'll tilt it on its side and splash water over it. On top of that there is some flex so I can bend it and open up the riffles a little which should be enough to stop anything jamming in there. This is why I used ABS instead of PLA. PLA is hard and brittle. Drop it and it shatters. ABS on the other hand is hard, but also has some flex so it will bend rather than shatter if droped from a height.
Not really sure how printing out a mould would make it one solit mat either? I mean, I can still only print a max size of 200 200mm...so it would have to be a mould for each mat which I still have to join. Unless I print out parts of a mould and then join those parts together post print. I was thinking that I could print em out normally as individuals, join em together, get some liquid silicone, press the mold into itnand make a mold from the silicone, then get the polyurethane and pour it into the silicone mould giving me one large solid but flexible mat. Its and idea but not sure if it would work.

Tathradj said:
I would glue them together with Sikaflex.
Rough the joining area's up a bit them join them.
That way you can separate them later with a bit of effort. :)
Do you think I'll want to separate them? I figure that it may be better to test with them unjoined as I may want to rearrange them, but once I've found the order of things I figure it might be easier to have it as one piece. Hmm...

EDIT: Also, I plan on trying to design and test my own mats soon just for the fun of it so not sure how long a I'll be using these anyways.
 
If you do print up mats of some kind in reverse and want to make rubber ones , then corn starch is the word of the day.

2 pack silicone rubber is expensive.

But a cheap option is to buy roofing silicone , mix it with turps and corn starch , and voila ! You have your own rubber.

Spray mould release to your master , make dams around it and pour your rubber on to the mould .

I have tried it , yes it works , but google it or search YouTube to get the right mix ratios to obtain the rubber hardness you desire.

Corn starch from the supermarket does just fine. :D

Ps check out www.barnes.com.au for accessories
 
Without looking in to it yet it seems like that might be a viable idea. I dontnneed a mould that will last forever...just a single use so it might be fine to use. Im just assuming it woulsnt have the longevity of a silicone mould...but as I said doesnt really matter so if its cheaper I'll certaibly look in to it. Im not averse to spending money though. It all in the name of keeping me entertained and I spend a lot more on less entertaining things all the time haha. Anyways thanks!
 
In terms of the Shore A hardness scale, does anyone know what would be a good number to get for a sluice mat? I look up scales and they say that Shore A 50 is like a car tire, but I looked up a vid where they cast a wrench with Shore A 60 polyurethane and it looked really floppy and soft...way sorfter than a car tire. But it was when they took it out of the mould. Not sure if it stiffens, or how much during the cure. Anyways any advice would be much appreciated.
 

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