Well done on the purchase and joining the infinium club!
I bought my infinium with the large DD, large mono and 8" coil, but found that it was an earlier model that hadn't had a software/hardware upgrade to run the monos. As a result it fried the front end, requiring a new board at a cost of around $50 from the Gold Mining Centre here in Adelaide, plus it was upgraded to Oz specs. Most newer Infiniums already have these upgrades, but a few of the older ones slipped through the net, mine included. If you do ever have any issues, Phil at the the GMC will be happy to service your unit for very a very reasonable charge.
Since then I have found my favourite coils to be the 8" mono (similar depth but less weight to lug around over the larger 10x14" mono), and the 5x10" DD elliptical coil, nice and light but still with reasonable depth for such a small coil - easier to pinpoint with too. I found the 10x14DD quite heavy to lug around for extended periods, plus it has recently died and will not be in a hurry to replace it.
Things to watch out for maintenance wise, and a few tips I have learn't from using mine.
- mono loops for under water work only, monos and DD coils both for land use.
- ensure the coil cable is run straight up the bottom section of the shaft and taped down, still allowing for reasonable movement of the coil, this will prevent any falsing, something common on the Infinium, especially in the water with wave action.
- I run my control box so the coil cable runs straight out the back and down the shaft, not the opposite way around like seen on you tube etc, this prevents any bends in the cable, especially at the plug end which could lead to connection/shielding issues.
- ensure the pins on all of the coil connectors and headphones are straight and not bent, otherwise they will not mate up to the connector holes properly, and simply protrude into the rubber surround of the plug. This will result in continuous hi/lo signals or falsing. Do not bend the connector pins too much as they do snap off (as my headphone plug pin did recently)
- if you infinium continuously falses on all coils, inlcuding monos, chances are , are it hasn't been upgraded to run monos, and requires a new front end.
- if falsing occurs on one coil, but not another, usually means a cable shielding issue that should be reasonable easy and cheap to fix.
- falsing can occur due to EMI, so don't bother trying to use the Infinium around infrastructure like your house, near powerlines etc, as it will drive you nut wondering what the heck is wrong with the machine. Take it down to the beach for a test run away from electrical sources.
- ensure that you batteries are up to scratch, and regularly change them out, as the detector will start falsing when the batteries are near exhausted, making you think there are coil issues or other problems.
- when first starting up, run with discrimination off with an audible threshold, turn the tracking to slow track and let the detector settle to a smooth threshold, then switch to lock. Then switch to fast rack and do the same before switching back to lock, then you should be ready to roll with a nice and smooth threshold without any falsing. Setting the tracking up by this method will achieved to the best depth vs just operating soley in either slow of fast track. I find pumpinv the detector up and down to compensate the ground conditions is generally not required, I just sit the coil on the ground until it has settled down to a smooth threshold.
If you do have any excessive falsing, it may be due to EMI in the area, then you will need to turn the threshold to max to put it into frequency change mode. Then use the discrimination knob to slowly cycle through all the frequencies to find the quietest one. Once a quiet frequency is found, turn the threshold back to minimum to exit the frequency change mode to lock in the frequency, and then turn the discrimination back to zero. I pretty much never do this before setting the tracking as I have never really had a scenario where I have had to use it.
- leave discrimination om zero for best depth and sensitivity, if you do get some erratic signals, you should not wind up discrimination beyond the three setting, or you will start to miss out on targets.
- dig all targets, regardless of hi/lo or lo/hi signals, just a fact of running with a PI detectors. You will dig up more bobby pins and tent pegs than ever before, but you will also be surprised at the rediculous depths that can be achieved on the smallest of targets, especially when working beaches. Only dig repeatable targets.
- very deep or weak shallow targets will not break the signal threshold to create the hi/lo od lo/hi signal that we expect, amd will only be a repeatable slight waver in the background threashold. Dig these, and as you get closer to the target, the signal should get more pronounced until it eventually does a hi/lo or lo/hi.
- when doing up the screw cap for the battery compartment, it is only required that it be hand tight, not as tight as you can get it. (If you do it up too tight, it's a real bugger to undo, and does the waterproof seals no good)
- buy a straight shaft for the infinium, makes for a better balanced detector, especially when running the bigger coils
- DD coils are less prone to EMI inteference, hence why the little 5x10" coil is one of my favourites at the beach on dry and wet sand (not for underwater). 8" coil is probably the best all-round coil for water/sand/gold, and the most sensitive, whilst maintaining a light enough weight for all day usage.
- a strong, long handled stainless ot alumimium beach scoop is a necessity when working on the beach or in the surf with the infinium.
As you can see, most of my usage has been at the beach, with very little gold detecting with the Infinium, so if anyone else has some tips to help out, please chime in.