Expanded metal over deep V matting

[Next1m8]

I was thinking I may need some way to speed the velocity of the water after it leaves the boiler/top hopper and drops into the bottom tier, if I can figure out a configuration to incorporate the rear water input and the spray bars up along the top hopper lips once I build them I may need two pumps any advice would be helpful my brain is almost in meltdown mode

 

[WalnLiz]

Plenty of different options out there mate. D'arcy Coopers version with the expanded in the Boiler Section is OK. It has pros and cons like all set ups. If you're clearing your hopper with gloves that version works well. If you're raking the hopper with your shovel the expanded can be a pain in the...you know where.

Keep the top hopper at a very slight angle only, so as to maximize the length of time the pay dirt stays in the hopper. Once washed it's easily raked off with the shovel.

I would prefer a flat bottom hopper leading into a boiler section at the upper end of the lower box, and not in the upper box itself. The results will be similar...the advantage being you only need one mat to clean and not two.

I would run spray bars both sides of the hopper, and do away with the rear water flow you're currently running. A bit of research into the many banker designs, plus some experimenting on your own part will enable you to get a system that suits you personally. All Bankers catch gold...some better on flour gold and some better on coarser gold. The trick is to get the best compromise for your own personal set up.

Best of luck,

Wal.

 

[Next1m8]

Dnt mind my crappy drawing skills

So I was thinking to join both sprayers with rear in out is use a T-piece just before the ball valve with a 50-40mm reducer and then plumb it too the rear input with 40mm and then a ball valve just below the top ball valve

 

[Next1m8]

Advice noted, rear Input I won't plumb up yet, I'll do spray bars on each side of the too hopper leavening the slick plate free, I fear I still may need to encourage the water to flow faster somehow once it hits the sluice section

 

[Next1m8]

Bloody iPhone and your pain in the rear auto correct drives me crazy

 

[WalnLiz]

That would work OK. I would have no rear water input. Similarly just rivet a small plate section over the existing inlet hole which extends 50mm over the top of the hopper....Run inlet fitting into "T" piece and elbows down the sides. Run either slots or holes as in your drawing. I tend to not bother with ball valves etc, as once you get to know the bankers set up the volume can be easily adjusted by the motor speed.

 

[Next1m8]

Ok so how about this Wal, what if I lay the top hopper flatter, and slop the sluice section more to increase velocity? So sluice is slopped yet the top hopper in accordance with lower sluice is still flatter. In the rear of my sluice can you see that pic? What would you suggest there with the carpet

 

[Next1m8]

Your advice is so helpful thank you so much for taking time to answer me

 

[Next1m8]

 

[WalnLiz]

Your advice is so helpful thank you so much for taking time to answer me

No worries mate,

I run a completely different system to yours personally. In your scenario the first thing I would do is cut your carpet back to the second riffle, and make this area below your grizzly a boiler section. I would have a larger piece of sloped expanded in this section, with a wall size of around 10 - 15mmm. I would also cut out that first riffle. The slope of your lower box does not want to be too steep. Water pressure is what you need to fine tune the sluice and not excessive sluice angle.

 

[Next1m8]

With wall size do you refer to a wall like flat bar beside the expanded? Or is that the size of expanded? A picture would be really helpful if you could

 

[G0lddigg@]

good to see you got some great advice here next1m8

 

[Next1m8]

wal I was thinking of using a yabby pump with that little attachment that turns it into a bilge pump to run a section of hose to the rear input section, so I may just cap the rear input for now so if need be once my spot gets some more water I can use my little yabby to hit those crevices

 

[WalnLiz]

This is the size of all the Aluminium sloped expanded I use in my Gold Bankers.

 

[madworld]

wal I was thinking of using a yabby pump with that little attachment that turns it into a bilge pump to run a section of hose to the rear input section, so I may just cap the rear input for now so if need be once my spot gets some more water I can use my little yabby to hit those crevices

I think pumping straight into your sluice makes a grey area ( yabby pump) illegal

 

[Next1m8]

I see Wal thanks heaps, mad world what if I do it into a bucket?

 

[madworld]

Think its still not 100 percent legit .. but going to look less commercial than a line feeding gravel straight to your sluice ...unless your looking for earthworms in that highbanker

 

[yobskin]

Yea dont attach it to your sluice mate.
Keep it simple ... it will get attension all hooked up.
Hand held hand emptied...its how i roll?

 

[Next1m8]

Cheers for the clarifications fellas don't want to screw things up for the rest of us/or get slapped with a fine

 

[Next1m8]

Wal just curious bro, with my spray bars should I make them 50mm or 40mm pressure pvc?

And so you suggest no ball valve

What in your experience works best slotted sprayers or drilled holes?

Sorry to keep being a pain but will it still create enough speed to clean the blondes and lights ect over the riffles? I took your advice removed the first riffle, cut the carpet back to the second riffle I'm going to have to adjust height of the first riffle to sit flush on the bottom of the sluice so it does not Underflow atm I'm looking for this expanded 100x40x15 as a nugget trap sort of thing and boiler

I'll upload a picture later of the rear wing nut mounting point I need some advice there to wondering if it will hinder it or not