cable tray upgrade and simple fit out

[mudgee hunter]

After repeated abuse to my cable tray, throwing sticky brick sized rocks at, it became rather bent, and never sat right with time.
I have tried several fitting applications that I was never 100% happy with.
So here's a few tips to beefing, cutting the tray down to suit hopper width, and easy mounting, using 10mm stainless cap screws as locator ludgs. Note, dont use washers on the inside of the hopper behind cap. You will note I do run two trays/ classifiers. The second lower is 8mm punch, and is is not parraral to the base. It is higher at the back, tapered down. Allowing for more fall and hand access
this has it's advantages and some disadvantages, but more advantages.
It dose also allow more break down time for dirt and clay, as it gets a good extra showering, exra classification is good. But shea oak roots will accumulate on punch plate easily. But it is easily wiped off.
Rhs pop riveted at both ends and one across the main drop zone helps stop the bowing, keeping the fittment shape intact.
Once you have chosen the 10mm holes for the locating stud lugs, tin snip the lower end of cable tray hole up the upper side of holes, then a verticle cut up to the 3 oclock postion on tray. This makes for easy placement, file of neaty.

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[mudgee hunter]

if your cable tray needs cutting down eg-10mm, dont cut the 10mm from the very edge. First Cut approx 30mm in from edge. Then take the desired excess from the larger peice you have, this leaves a decent over lap for strength and riveting. With patience when cutting you can work out the best lines to align slots etc.

 

[mudgee hunter]

 

[mudgee hunter]

note slot for 10mm cap screw head.

 

[mudgee hunter]

 

[mudgee hunter]

 

[mudgee hunter]

This banker is yet to be christened, but next week it will get a hiding!
It was made using 1.6mm. But you will note the top face of hopper has a second 1.6mm skin on it. Just for extra reinforcement for abuse.

 

[mudgee hunter]

Got to admit, it was the go as far principal goes. It dose worm at treat for simplicity..... BUT I had to beef up around the key slots on the folded lip edge, as I lost strength in the fold. I over came this by putting a 60mm strip of 2mm gal strip over the keyed out cut area, and recutting the same keyed out area. Couple of counter sunk pop rivets to hold it in place.
Ahhh you get that on prototype diy's. Haha