3D printing coil tab fixes, YEP I'm going to learn how to ....

[Greenhornet_au]

I have a ML 505 with a broken Tab, Ear, Mount , Yoke whatever they are called.
After some looking for a fix I have finally decided to 3D print a fix and sort the problem.

I know there are a few of us out there that have the same problem with various fixes and degree's of success on so many coils,
so I have done a search for .stl files for coil strengthening and repairs.

I have downloaded what I need, and think I need to learn about 'slicers' and 'infill' etc, so I am doing a small course in Sept
to get it together and make some bits for the 505, ACE250, CTX and Nox machines in the house.

There are a lot of other bits for detecting and many brands of detectors, that can be 3D printed, just do a Google for what you think you want.
I have a LOT of PLA filament, so if you want an item and don't mind me taking time to print one, find it on a site,
send me the web page link via the PM and I will look it up and give it a shot.
If it works I will send it to you for just Postage and PLA cost.

I figure that would put me on a motivated and accelerated learning curve.
(My local library has a Maker room with 3D printer dual spool + an instructor)

If you find something just PM me. (yes I know the stuff/things can be bought on Ebay and Amazon )

 

[IBGold]

I have a ML 505 with a broken Tab, Ear, Mount , Yoke whatever they are called.
After some looking for a fix I have finally decided to 3D print a fix and sort the problem.

I know there are a few of us out there that have the same problem with various fixes and degree's of success on so many coils,
so I have done a search for .stl files for coil strengthening and repairs.

I have downloaded what I need, and think I need to learn about 'slicers' and 'infill' etc, so I am doing a small course in Sept
to get it together and make some bits for the 505, ACE250, CTX and Nox machines in the house.

There are a lot of other bits for detecting and many brands of detectors, that can be 3D printed, just do a Google for what you think you want.
I have a LOT of PLA filament, so if you want an item and don't mind me taking time to print one, find it on a site,
send me the web page link via the PM and I will look it up and give it a shot.
If it works I will send it to you for just Postage and PLA cost.

I figure that would put me on a motivated and accelerated learning curve.
(My local library has a Maker room with 3D printer dual spool + an instructor)

If you find something just PM me. (yes I know the stuff/things can be bought on Ebay and Amazon )

Hi Greenhornet_,

Don't use PLA use ABS filament as it is compatible with coil housings if you want to discuss I am in S.A. so you can email me and I will give you a phone number.

Regards, Ian.

 

[Guessologist]

3D printing and detecting seem to go together. I designed up some coil washers for my E-TRAC when I got it, place I got it from didn't mention it only had one of the pair... Paying 30 bucks odd to get new ones posted out seemed pretty absurd. 20 minutes later and had them working well, only had PLA though so they squished in a bit with the summer heat, would work better in TPU but serviceable enough.

A weekend project for me would be designing and printing a spare Legend arm cuff, I reckon I'm going to end up breaking mine like I did with the Equinox ones multiple times but Nokta parts aren't as common here.

 

[Hilux]

Hi Greenhornet_,

Don't use PLA use ABS filament as it is compatible with coil housings if you want to discuss I am in S.A. so you can email me and I will give you a phone number.

Regards, Ian.

How are they incompatible Ian?

Can you not get suitable adhesives or something?

 

[Simmo]

@Hilux I agree with Ian mate, PLA is good for display stuff etc but is made from 'sugar' and does not have a lot of strength or heat tolerance.
ABS is petrolium based and has a heap more strength and resilience.
It prints a lot hotter and it is advised to encase the printer to keep the heat in.
An example is a mate of mine printed PLA fake Muzzle flash hiders for his Gel Blasters. Put the blasters in the boot of his car on the friday arvo, got to the game on sunday and the hiders could have shot around corners!!!! They were all melted!
Another stronger than PLA filament that is easier to print is PETG or PETG PLus.

 

[Hilux]

Cheers Simmo, I've had some PLA bits printed as housing prototypes (work related) and yeah they were very weak. They easily broke along the print lines as well.

I had a mold for epoxy casting made and it was hard and very strong - unfortunately I can't remember what it was printed with I think it may have been ASA.

I probably misunderstood Ian thinking there was a material incompatibility rather than it just being a strength issue.

I wish I could justify buying a printer myself!

 

[Greenhornet_au]

Hi Greenhornet_,

Don't use PLA use ABS filament as it is compatible with coil housings if you want to discuss I am in S.A. so you can email me and I will give you a phone number.

Regards, Ian.

Thanks IBG, as I say I am not experienced and need to learn, I will PM you tomorrow.
I believe the library has ABS.
Like I said, a learning curve.

 

[Enkee]

Hi Greenhornet_,

Don't use PLA use ABS filament as it is compatible with coil housings if you want to discuss I am in S.A. so you can email me and I will give you a phone number.

Regards, Ian.

ABS is very hard to print and layer adhesion is crap. PLA is great but need to go for some professional plastics. ABS+ is not really an ABS, layer adhesion is not any better, just less warping.
eSun has ABS Plus which seems to be a better option, but is it pricey. Didn't try this myself.
Note: I have CF nylon on hands, prints are so textured that gluing should not be a problem, although needs testing before going this way. Perhaps CF ABS would be the best option as per rigidity and ease of gluing and sanding.

 

[Enkee]

@Hilux I agree with Ian mate, PLA is good for display stuff etc but is made from 'sugar' and does not have a lot of strength or heat tolerance.
ABS is petrolium based and has a heap more strength and resilience.
It prints a lot hotter and it is advised to encase the printer to keep the heat in.
An example is a mate of mine printed PLA fake Muzzle flash hiders for his Gel Blasters. Put the blasters in the boot of his car on the friday arvo, got to the game on sunday and the hiders could have shot around corners!!!! They were all melted!
Another stronger than PLA filament that is easier to print is PETG or PETG PLus.

I've got a roll of Basf PLA+ PRO and it seems to be very strong.
I was trying to make a load carrying parts before from generic PLA, eSun PETG, Taulman 618 Nylon. Only Nylon worked as i wanted.
PETG was not really stronger thab PLA. Temp tower could crack with hands on all levels, didn't see any difference with PLA.
Printed a full roll of ABS+for 3d printer improvement parts. It is not warping w/o enclosure (great) but layers adhesion sucks (not so great). Printed 100% infill on 80C bed with 0.1 layers at 260. Parts had tight fit for a rod. When pushed rod with force the layers cracked. Less infill, higher temp, higher layer height - rigidity drops. On forums hear the same stories about ABS, plus warping.

Would suggest trying ABS PRO or ABS PLUS varieties, ideally with CF - less warping, can print w/o enclose and still soluble with acetone which means can glue to the original part.

 

[Enkee]

Also, I would suggested trying to glue the original part itself using acetone (not glues), before going for 3d printing.
Also, the tab can be reinforced with any ABS. That ABS can be taken from a plastic box, Lego part, plenty of places. If acetone dissolves it, it is ABS.
All you need is a flat piece.
Cut the shape of the original ear. Shred the cuts into a small bottle with acetone to turn it into a slurry with some mixing.
Use that slurry as a glue and weld reinforcement with your broken-glued ear part, leave excess to dry around corners and sand when dried.
It will hold better then the printed parts, w/o extra expense and risk of experimentation with wrong filaments.

 

[IBGold]

Also, I would suggested trying to glue the original part itself using acetone (not glues), before going for 3d printing.
Also, the tab can be reinforced with any ABS. That ABS can be taken from a plastic box, Lego part, plenty of places. If acetone dissolves it, it is ABS.
All you need is a flat piece.
Cut the shape of the original ear. Shred the cuts into a small bottle with acetone to turn it into a slurry with some mixing.
Use that slurry as a glue and weld reinforcement with your broken-glued ear part, leave excess to dry around corners and sand when dried.
It will hold better then the printed parts, w/o extra expense and risk of experimentation with wrong filaments.

Ok firstly Most coil housings are made with ABS plastics and bond easily with a mixture of ABS offcuts and MEK or clear plumbing primer which is easier to get hold of for the lay person for my home made coils I fabricate the coil ears with ABS sheet and bond them onto the housings and never had a problem with them but I do make battery holders, housings and slide mounts with my 3D printer using ABS filament.

I have a large roll of PLA white and black free if anyone has a use for it.

Regards, Ian.

 

[Greenhornet_au]

Thanks guys, I will glue the printed part for the 505 is a whole of replacement for the 'ears'.
Bonding it will be a thought after printing the replacement from 'thingiverse'.
The other bits are for 'extra support' of the original ears on other coils and machines, mostly they clip into place or use a bonding agent or cable ties.