GM 1000 - How to find detectable areas in the Golden Triangle

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Pedro3141

Joined
Nov 26, 2024
Messages
3
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Location
Melbourne
Hello everyone,

I’m somewhat new to detecting(I have a GM 1000) but have been panning/high banking for about two years in Melbourne, Creswick and Eldorado.

I’ve been out around 6 times for around 6-8 hours at a time to a couple of different areas in the Golden Triangle. Detected one area in Creswick which was mostly ‘pipe clay’ or a similar white material where the monster could run on max settings. The rest of the time I was mainly detecting the material in and around mine shafts in Creswick and Castlemaine.
I haven’t found a single speck of gold yet but I’ll keep trying!

I have found a plethora of lead shot and 22 casings, and some typical junk(foil, tin, hot rocks, rust nuggets, etc.). Which I am definitely expecting and would rather get a lead shot than no target at all after a couple of hours swinging.
I am confident with the machine, I can find my test nugget(0.05g) reliably in the material next to mine shafts(don’t know the technical name).
Now the question:
What’s the best way to search for areas where pipe clay(or other less ‘hot’ ground) covers the surface ? Do old prospecting maps label it in a certain way? Is it possible to search for it on Geovic? LDC Gold on YouTube shows some great areas for the monster that aren’t strictly mullock heaps or mineshaft material.

I’m planning on going out this weekend for a swing in the triangle, if anyone is feeling generous enough to message me an old spot(an area not an exact pin)that they recommend for the monster I would be very grateful. Not expecting anything because I can see how much time and effort can go into finding a spot.

Thanks.
 
Pedro3141 said:
What’s the best way to search for areas where pipe clay(or other less ‘hot’ ground) covers the surface ? Do old prospecting maps label it in a certain way?
Click to expand...
The original old Golden Triangle maps are full of detailed info and well worth very close study in my experience. Back in the early 80's, a friend found a tiny area labelled "Nuggets" on an ancient Maryborough map, went there and walked straight on to a patch in some river wash! Look out for anywhere labelled "White Hill/s" - there's your quiet ground.
 
grubstake said:
The original old Golden Triangle maps are full of detailed info and well worth very close study in my experience. Back in the early 80's, a friend found a tiny area labelled "Nuggets" on an ancient Maryborough map, went there and walked straight on to a patch in some river wash! Look out for anywhere labelled "White Hill/s" - there's your quiet ground.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your quick response Grubstake.
Just checked a map and saw White Flat and White Hill. However both areas are not within the allowed prospecting area haha that’s unfortunate. I’ll check some other areas and some other maps.
Are there any other distinct types of ground that isn't highly mineralised/ hot ?
 
It amazes me how we're still digging up dozens of lead shot, bullets and shells and yet the gold has gone. Do people just throw their junk back? If I find gold anywhere I know I'm going back someday and I'd hate to be digging the same lumps of lead that I dug the previous year. We take anything we pick up, if it's big it usually stays behind but all the little bits go in the bumbag to be disposed of elsewhere.
 
Pedro3141 said:
Hello everyone,

I’m somewhat new to detecting(I have a GM 1000) but have been panning/high banking for about two years in Melbourne, Creswick and Eldorado.

I’ve been out around 6 times for around 6-8 hours at a time to a couple of different areas in the Golden Triangle. Detected one area in Creswick which was mostly ‘pipe clay’ or a similar white material where the monster could run on max settings. The rest of the time I was mainly detecting the material in and around mine shafts in Creswick and Castlemaine.
I haven’t found a single speck of gold yet but I’ll keep trying!

I have found a plethora of lead shot and 22 casings, and some typical junk(foil, tin, hot rocks, rust nuggets, etc.). Which I am definitely expecting and would rather get a lead shot than no target at all after a couple of hours swinging.
I am confident with the machine, I can find my test nugget(0.05g) reliably in the material next to mine shafts(don’t know the technical name).
Now the question:
What’s the best way to search for areas where pipe clay(or other less ‘hot’ ground) covers the surface ? Do old prospecting maps label it in a certain way? Is it possible to search for it on Geovic? LDC Gold on YouTube shows some great areas for the monster that aren’t strictly mullock heaps or mineshaft material.

I’m planning on going out this weekend for a swing in the triangle, if anyone is feeling generous enough to message me an old spot(an area not an exact pin)that they recommend for the monster I would be very grateful. Not expecting anything because I can see how much time and effort can go into finding a spot.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately Pedro, you have described a problem that most operators of VLF machines have experienced unless very fortunate.
I no longer have a VLF machine but started out with one and the experience in using it was a nightmare compared to the modern ground cancelling Pulse Induction machines we use today. No doubt more modern VLF machines like the GM have improved performance in some areas and I have heard of many who have had success but usually in highly favourable situations. For every success story there also seems to be as many stories highlighting difficulties as you have done.
The difficulty is and always will be in finding ground unmineralized enough to show off the potential of the GM.
After 6 unsuccessful trips, I think it is time to take stock and review where you are heading. Do you really want to do another 6 unsuccessful trips and if you do are you going to keep persevering with the hobby and pack it all in because that is what is at risk.
You have already put in some hard yards in your pursuit, why not now put in some hard cash and buy a PI detector which will allow you the freedom to not have to worry overmuch about ground mineralisation and almost guarantee you that success you seek and IMHO deserve.
A quick check through Marketplace just now reveals many secondhand SD 2300s available around $2500 -$3000 with many having heaps of extras. The 2300 is an almost bombproof PI detector and most would only be being sold to upgrade to the much more expensive 6000. In terms of performance on small gold the 2300 is still comparable in performance to that much more expensive machine.
So my recommendation would be to pull out all the stops and find the cash to buy a good used SD 2300. After 6 unsuccessful trips you deserve some success now.
 
100% agree with Hawkear above. I'd add that the catch for seeking out unmineralised areas is that those have always been the easiest places to find gold with a detector. As a consequence, there is less chance of you succeeding there now than in the more challenging (and more widespread) mineralised ground. Modern PI detectors can work well in hot, challenging ground that would reduce VLF operators to tears. 😢
 
Moneybox said:
It amazes me how we're still digging up dozens of lead shot, bullets and shells and yet the gold has gone. Do people just throw their junk back? If I find gold anywhere I know I'm going back someday and I'd hate to be digging the same lumps of lead that I dug the previous year. We take anything we pick up, if it's big it usually stays behind but all the little bits go in the bumbag to be disposed of elsewhere.
Click to expand...
I think about that all the time Moneybox. Yes, there is a lot of lead shot in each shotgun shell but the amount found just seems absurd sometimes haha
Hawkear said:
Unfortunately Pedro, you have described a problem that most operators of VLF machines have experienced unless very fortunate.
I no longer have a VLF machine but started out with one and the experience in using it was a nightmare compared to the modern ground cancelling Pulse Induction machines we use today. No doubt more modern VLF machines like the GM have improved performance in some areas and I have heard of many who have had success but usually in highly favourable situations. For every success story there also seems to be as many stories highlighting difficulties as you have done.
The difficulty is and always will be in finding ground unmineralized enough to show off the potential of the GM.
After 6 unsuccessful trips, I think it is time to take stock and review where you are heading. Do you really want to do another 6 unsuccessful trips and if you do are you going to keep persevering with the hobby and pack it all in because that is what is at risk.
You have already put in some hard yards in your pursuit, why not now put in some hard cash and buy a PI detector which will allow you the freedom to not have to worry overmuch about ground mineralisation and almost guarantee you that success you seek and IMHO deserve.
A quick check through Marketplace just now reveals many secondhand SD 2300s available around $2500 -$3000 with many having heaps of extras. The 2300 is an almost bombproof PI detector and most would only be being sold to upgrade to the much more expensive 6000. In terms of performance on small gold the 2300 is still comparable in performance to that much more expensive machine.
So my recommendation would be to pull out all the stops and find the cash to buy a good used SD 2300. After 6 unsuccessful trips you deserve some success now.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input Hawkear, it’s greatly appreciated.

I don’t plan on giving up this hobby any time soon, it’s great just being out in the bush and I can imagine once I find a piece of gold the thrill will wash away the hours spent.

If the SDC is the next cheapest and decent step in my metal detecting journey then I will save up my money and hopefully buy a second hand unit next year. In the meantime I hope searching the old maps more closely will result in me finding some of this allusive gold.

How was your first trip out using a PI machine ? Did you go to a spot where your VLF machine struggled and found gold? Or did you go to different spot/area?
grubstake said:
100% agree with Hawkear above. I'd add that the catch for seeking out unmineralised areas is that those have always been the easiest places to find gold with a detector. As a consequence, there is less chance of you succeeding there now than in the more challenging (and more widespread) mineralised ground. Modern PI detectors can work well in hot, challenging ground that would reduce VLF operators to tears. 😢
Click to expand...
Very well put Grubstake. Hopefully they’ve left me a tiny piece somewhere so I can show it off to the Mrs haha.

Are the quartz reefs mentioned in the old maps worth investigating further?
 
Pedro3141 said:
Are the quartz reefs mentioned in the old maps worth investigating further?
Click to expand...
There's no easy way to know - they weren't all bonanzas for the old-timers, as many proved to be quite low grade, so there may not have been much detectable gold around them even back when detectors first appeared. But never say never.

In my experience Avoca and Talbot are less mineralised than many other Golden Triangle areas. Also, in general the more quartz on the surface, the less mineralised the ground, if that's any help to you.
 
Pedro3141 said:
How was your first trip out using a PI machine ? Did you go to a spot where your VLF machine struggled and found gold? Or did you go to different spot/area?


Are the quartz reefs mentioned in the old maps worth investigating further?
Click to expand...
Back in the late nineties, by the time I was convinced that the advertising claims made about the new Minelab PI SD super detectors were not just hype, I had lost much of the first operator advantage on many of my old spots. Nevertheless, when I eventually had enough to buy a secondhand SD2000 and later a SD2100, that was the beginning of when I could confidently go to any spot and say to myself, if the gold is there, I can find it without worrying about the competence of the machine.
The last thing you want when detecting is to be constantly worrying about that and fighting against things like ground noise. You want confidence in your machine so you can concentrate on important things like your detecting technique and listening skills and with patience you will find gold in even thrashed ground.
Don't ever be put off by people telling you ground has been thrashed. Ground is only thrashed because that is where the gold is. (EDIT) Additionally, just visiting those places, observing and asking yourself why was the gold here so abundant (once upon a time admittedly), will educate you in what to look for when seeking out new spots.
Old worked quartz reefs usually have piles of quartz nearby. The old timers used to sink their shafts directly following the quartz looking for the richer sections to crush. They often dumped quartz that they considered worthless, but which may contain small bits of gold that they overlooked.
Quartz itself is relatively unmineralised and would be a good situation for a VLF machine. Additionally, from what I have heard the monsters seem to be good at detecting very small or lacy gold in quartz specimens.
So yes give the quartz dumps a go.
 
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Good advice from Grubstake & Hawkear, hearing the different tones targets put out is the voodoo to practice with a target garden using any metal you have, the headphones help on this, on youtube Keep Hammering Prospecting has a lot of great stuff on the GM 1000.
Shotgun pellets & hot rocks are the bane of VLF detectors, most areas have had 160 odd years of shotgun shooting, the thing to remember is if you pinging lead you will ping gold, always go over where you dug the pellet from & dig everything as much as that's a pain, the GM is a good detector, I use mine specifically to nose around quarts reefs & river beds, it just takes a bit of time to zero in on the different target noises, but it's worth it & will work for other detectors as well, go for it!
 
guipago said:
Good advice from Grubstake & Hawkear, hearing the different tones targets put out is the voodoo to practice with a target garden using any metal you have, the headphones help on this, on youtube Keep Hammering Prospecting has a lot of great stuff on the GM 1000.
Shotgun pellets & hot rocks are the bane of VLF detectors, most areas have had 160 odd years of shotgun shooting, the thing to remember is if you pinging lead you will ping gold, always go over where you dug the pellet from & dig everything as much as that's a pain, the GM is a good detector, I use mine specifically to nose around quarts reefs & river beds, it just takes a bit of time to zero in on the different target noises, but it's worth it & will work for other detectors as well, go for it!
Click to expand...
Metal Detecting For Arizona Gold on utube has a good coil depth comparison AND an interesting way to do it.
 
Hawkear said:
Unfortunately Pedro, you have described a problem that most operators of VLF machines have experienced unless very fortunate.
I no longer have a VLF machine but started out with one and the experience in using it was a nightmare compared to the modern ground cancelling Pulse Induction machines we use today. No doubt more modern VLF machines like the GM have improved performance in some areas and I have heard of many who have had success but usually in highly favourable situations. For every success story there also seems to be as many stories highlighting difficulties as you have done.
The difficulty is and always will be in finding ground unmineralized enough to show off the potential of the GM.
After 6 unsuccessful trips, I think it is time to take stock and review where you are heading. Do you really want to do another 6 unsuccessful trips and if you do are you going to keep persevering with the hobby and pack it all in because that is what is at risk.
You have already put in some hard yards in your pursuit, why not now put in some hard cash and buy a PI detector which will allow you the freedom to not have to worry overmuch about ground mineralisation and almost guarantee you that success you seek and IMHO deserve.
A quick check through Marketplace just now reveals many secondhand SD 2300s available around $2500 -$3000 with many having heaps of extras. The 2300 is an almost bombproof PI detector and most would only be being sold to upgrade to the much more expensive 6000. In terms of performance on small gold the 2300 is still comparable in performance to that much more expensive machine.
So my recommendation would be to pull out all the stops and find the cash to buy a good used SD 2300. After 6 unsuccessful trips you deserve some success now.
Click to expand...
This thread could not have come at a better time. After 5 unsuccessful trips (one as recently as today) I must admit that I drove home quite despondent. A result of a rough day out in Creswick combined with a poor nights sleep, at the end of a very warm and muggy couple of weeks. Oh, and a headache from my Gold Monster as I clearly chose the wrong area to detect. *sips on a whisky to lessen the dull ache*

I've had the GM for a couple of months now and, as mentioed above, have had 5 unsuccessful trips out with it. The GM advice here from this forum has been amazing. Additionally the resources from youtube whilst great, have been a been a bit of a double edged sword. Prospectors like LDC make it look easy but, when I get to site, its anything but!

So, after 5 trips I've indeed taken stock and have come to the follwing conclusions.

1. Whilst I've found alot of lead shot and junk, I'm still very green with the machine. Running the machine on
manual 9-10 I think is creating more issues than the extra sensitivity and depth is worth in these early days. I can't listen to a gold signal tone if its drowned out with hot ground.

There was a thread that had a couple of links in it that described running the GM machine on Auto and Auto+ for beginners. Perhaps its time that I actually used said settings. Yes, I will lose sensitivity and depth but, if it helps me identify gold targets signals, as well as cutting out hot rocks, etc, then I think in my early GM days, it may be worth it.
I know the recommended setting is Manual 9 but, sometimes you've gotta got backwards to go forwards.

2. Identification of favourable soils for the GM. I have only used my GM in Creswick. So, I have A LOT more ground to cover. Perhaps a change of scene is in order? Maybe my next few trips should focus on the GT areas that have more favourable conditions. This will rely on my setting aside some serious time to research online, as well as make use of information centres and this forum. My understanding is that the GT is highly mineralised. So, I'll need to try and perform due diligence when researching and finding places to detect.


3. So, I imagine most of us prospect alone or, in very small groups. Whilst there is a HEAP of help and information online and via media platforms, you can't really substitute face to face interactions. I get it, people are protective over the spots the prospect. However, I have thought more than once that it would've been great to be part of a small group or the like while out there. I have researched detecting groups in my area so, the obvious next step is to get in contact. Pedro3141, if you're
looking for a GM wingman, please let me know. 2 sets if eyes and ears may be all we need to turn our failures into success'.



I feel that having success with the GM will greatly enrich my detecting journey. The GM learning curve is steep, no question. But, I very fond of my GM. And I think with the right attitude, guidance, patience and perseverance, I can have many success' with it. Then again, maybe I'm naive or maybe I'm just prideful. But, I'm definitely not ready to throw in the towel just yet.

The PI detectors will come eventually but, if the prospecters on Youtube and here on the forum can have success with the GM, then so can we.

Cheers,

Pip.
 
Great to hear a follow up Pip.
I am surprised to hear that you are running your machine on level 9, as even though I have never used a GM, I presume this is at the high end of the scale. If so, this could be adding to your issues. Higher settings gain, sensitivity etc generally mean more noise and greater difficulty in recognising signals that should be checked. There is a good reason why manufacturers like Minelab have default or recommended settings lower down towards the middle of such scales.
This applies to PI machines as well.
Just cranking up the machine for what in the end is just a marginal increase in depth performance will result in a much greater number of signals but almost all of those will be noise or false signals and most likely disguise the few good ones there are.
Your job is to identify the most prospective signals to examine so try and let your machine do as much of that as possible by using less aggressive settings which result in less noise.
Sure you may lose a few of the fainter signals, but they are the ones that you were probably never going to be able to identify above the noise of very high settings. It should also make your detecting experience easier and faster. I am not talking about swinging or walking speed but just less time wasted on fruitless noise checking.
Auto sounds like something you should at least check out and do a few tests to see what difference it makes eg what you lose in signals vs the interpretive difficulty involved with aggressive noisy settings.
Remember it is not the gold you pass over and leave behind, it is the gold that you dig up that matters.
 
Thanks Hawkear,

I think the high end settings (Manual 9,etc) combined with inexperience with the machine and, unfamiliarity with the areas I've been detecting in sound like a perfect storm for failure and frustration.

You're right. There indeed is a reason there are default settings on the minelab detectors. To familiarise yourself with the basics of the machine and then build on/up your confidence when you gain more experience.

I think I have to "reset" my mindset and use the settings designed for beginners like myself. If nothing else, it should at least quieten down the GM and give me a chance to dig those targets that sound, "right".

Like I said in my last post. I think I got a bit carried away with those enjoyable Youtube prospecting vids. But, what I don't see is all the false targets or lead shot they dig up in between the gold they find. However, I do really try to listen to tone of the gold targets they find.


Still, in the end. If 5 failed trips, a few comments on a forum thread, and a bit of reflection and reassessment of my detecting technique and goals puts me back om track, then I can't complain about that outcome.

Cheers,
Pip.
 
ProspectingPip said:
There was a thread that had a couple of links in it that described running the GM machine on Auto and Auto+ for beginners. Perhaps its time that I actually used said settings. Yes, I will lose sensitivity and depth but, if it helps me identify gold targets signals, as well as cutting out hot rocks, etc, then I think in my early GM days, it may be worth it.
I know the recommended setting is Manual 9 but, sometimes you've gotta got backwards to go forwards.
Click to expand...
Auto and Auto+ aren't just for beginners - they're how the machine was designed to be run, so use them and save yourself the pain you've been having. And where do you get the idea that you will lose sensitivity and depth? Auto+ is actually higher sensitivity than the highest Manual setting, but if it's too chattery for you, just turn it down to Auto.

Check out these two invaluable Gold Monster guides by master user Jonathan Porter, from Minelab's Treasure Talk series:
https://www.minelab.com/anz/go-minelabbing/treasure-talk/mastering-the-gold-monster-1000
https://www.minelab.com/anzea/anz/g...-sensitivity-control-on-the-gold-monster-1000
 
Last edited:
ProspectingPip said:
This thread could not have come at a better time. After 5 unsuccessful trips (one as recently as today) I must admit that I drove home quite despondent. A result of a rough day out in Creswick combined with a poor nights sleep, at the end of a very warm and muggy couple of weeks. Oh, and a headache from my Gold Monster as I clearly chose the wrong area to detect. *sips on a whisky to lessen the dull ache*

I've had the GM for a couple of months now and, as mentioed above, have had 5 unsuccessful trips out with it. The GM advice here from this forum has been amazing. Additionally the resources from youtube whilst great, have been a been a bit of a double edged sword. Prospectors like LDC make it look easy but, when I get to site, its anything but!

So, after 5 trips I've indeed taken stock and have come to the follwing conclusions.

1. Whilst I've found alot of lead shot and junk, I'm still very green with the machine. Running the machine on
manual 9-10 I think is creating more issues than the extra sensitivity and depth is worth in these early days. I can't listen to a gold signal tone if its drowned out with hot ground.

There was a thread that had a couple of links in it that described running the GM machine on Auto and Auto+ for beginners. Perhaps its time that I actually used said settings. Yes, I will lose sensitivity and depth but, if it helps me identify gold targets signals, as well as cutting out hot rocks, etc, then I think in my early GM days, it may be worth it.
I know the recommended setting is Manual 9 but, sometimes you've gotta got backwards to go forwards.

2. Identification of favourable soils for the GM. I have only used my GM in Creswick. So, I have A LOT more ground to cover. Perhaps a change of scene is in order? Maybe my next few trips should focus on the GT areas that have more favourable conditions. This will rely on my setting aside some serious time to research online, as well as make use of information centres and this forum. My understanding is that the GT is highly mineralised. So, I'll need to try and perform due diligence when researching and finding places to detect.


3. So, I imagine most of us prospect alone or, in very small groups. Whilst there is a HEAP of help and information online and via media platforms, you can't really substitute face to face interactions. I get it, people are protective over the spots the prospect. However, I have thought more than once that it would've been great to be part of a small group or the like while out there. I have researched detecting groups in my area so, the obvious next step is to get in contact. Pedro3141, if you're
looking for a GM wingman, please let me know. 2 sets if eyes and ears may be all we need to turn our failures into success'.



I feel that having success with the GM will greatly enrich my detecting journey. The GM learning curve is steep, no question. But, I very fond of my GM. And I think with the right attitude, guidance, patience and perseverance, I can have many success' with it. Then again, maybe I'm naive or maybe I'm just prideful. But, I'm definitely not ready to throw in the towel just yet.

The PI detectors will come eventually but, if the prospecters on Youtube and here on the forum can have success with the GM, then so can we.

Cheers,

Pip.
Click to expand...
Hi Pip. I'm from Wollongong nsw, I'm a beginner in prospecting, I've been in Victoria now for two and a half weeks in GT area using a SDC2300 I have been picking up a lot of scrap and 1 Florin coin but no gold, maybe I'm just not detecting in the right area or it has been mowed over previously.
I thought the tone you get in scrap is the same tone you would get in gold with SDC,
I do have excellent hearing so I don't use head phones
I can hear a minuscule tone.
If I'm am wrong can someone please advise.
Cheers
 
ProspectingPip said:
This thread could not have come at a better time. After 5 unsuccessful trips (one as recently as today) I must admit that I drove home quite despondent. A result of a rough day out in Creswick combined with a poor nights sleep, at the end of a very warm and muggy couple of weeks. Oh, and a headache from my Gold Monster as I clearly chose the wrong area to detect. *sips on a whisky to lessen the dull ache*

I've had the GM for a couple of months now and, as mentioed above, have had 5 unsuccessful trips out with it. The GM advice here from this forum has been amazing. Additionally the resources from youtube whilst great, have been a been a bit of a double edged sword. Prospectors like LDC make it look easy but, when I get to site, its anything but!

So, after 5 trips I've indeed taken stock and have come to the follwing conclusions.

1. Whilst I've found alot of lead shot and junk, I'm still very green with the machine. Running the machine on
manual 9-10 I think is creating more issues than the extra sensitivity and depth is worth in these early days. I can't listen to a gold signal tone if its drowned out with hot ground.

There was a thread that had a couple of links in it that described running the GM machine on Auto and Auto+ for beginners. Perhaps its time that I actually used said settings. Yes, I will lose sensitivity and depth but, if it helps me identify gold targets signals, as well as cutting out hot rocks, etc, then I think in my early GM days, it may be worth it.
I know the recommended setting is Manual 9 but, sometimes you've gotta got backwards to go forwards.

2. Identification of favourable soils for the GM. I have only used my GM in Creswick. So, I have A LOT more ground to cover. Perhaps a change of scene is in order? Maybe my next few trips should focus on the GT areas that have more favourable conditions. This will rely on my setting aside some serious time to research online, as well as make use of information centres and this forum. My understanding is that the GT is highly mineralised. So, I'll need to try and perform due diligence when researching and finding places to detect.


3. So, I imagine most of us prospect alone or, in very small groups. Whilst there is a HEAP of help and information online and via media platforms, you can't really substitute face to face interactions. I get it, people are protective over the spots the prospect. However, I have thought more than once that it would've been great to be part of a small group or the like while out there. I have researched detecting groups in my area so, the obvious next step is to get in contact. Pedro3141, if you're
looking for a GM wingman, please let me know. 2 sets if eyes and ears may be all we need to turn our failures into success'.



I feel that having success with the GM will greatly enrich my detecting journey. The GM learning curve is steep, no question. But, I very fond of my GM. And I think with the right attitude, guidance, patience and perseverance, I can have many success' with it. Then again, maybe I'm naive or maybe I'm just prideful. But, I'm definitely not ready to throw in the towel just yet.

The PI detectors will come eventually but, if the prospecters on Youtube and here on the forum can have success with the GM, then so can we.

Cheers,

Pip.
Click to expand...
It took me about a month of regular detecting in WA before I found my first piece. Minelab 3500 . I believe it takes some time to tune your ear in. Even with experience if it is a long time between trips you need to "tune your ear in". The doubts quickly develop when not finding any nuggets for the first time. Is it the detector, or is it me? There is also chance. Finding a nice nugget on the first day detecting in Paddy's Ranges. Or another nugget from Tennant Creek area was mixed up in trash under a bush. After finding the first piece I found more and more, but still had weeks of fairly regular detecting with no nuggets. Make the most of time between nuggets. The journey is a good experience also.
 
A fairly constant thread among many new prospectors is doubting whether they are detecting in the right places. Older hands justifiably can be very reluctant to give away information that has only been gained after years of hard work.
Fortunately, a lot of information is readily available in prospecting guides published by people like John Tully and Steve Barnham. I know there are also lots of applications like trilobite that many now use but the value of a prospecting guide, apart from being designed specifically for prospectors, is that it shows in large scale the direction of a diggings, the start and end, its relationship to other gullies, where they broaden, narrow or bend etc. This conveys far more information that just a dot on a map.
If you open up a typical page of a Tully guide, you will see perhaps a dozen or so gullies identified that have been worked for gold. It doesn't take much imagination to work out where the shallowest parts of those gullies would lie ie usually at the top ends of each.
For detector operators these top ends mark the spots that are the prime areas to search especially if using detectors with small and shallow gold strengths such as a 2300 or maybe the GM (I am not an expert with those). That one page can give you weeks of work checking out those dozen gullies and their adjacent hillsides.
For the substantial amount of money we spend on detectors, travelling to and staying in the GT, why would we not spend a few extra dollars for information like that.
 
Last edited:

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