Playing with Old Fridges

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So not to conflict with Ridge Runners thread i thought id start this one as i have modified a few old Waecos. One an old CF60 analogue fridge, the slightly later CF50 digital and a CF40 digital.

The old CF60 started to have a high consumption so i disconnected the thermister, fitted a digital controller and replaced the 100mm .8A fan with two .08A 120mm fans. The fridge has never been so efficient.

The immaculate CF50 with cover i bought for $150, fitted a $6 digital controller so for $156 we have an immaculate fridge for the wifes car.

The CF40 i bought for $50 and fitted the same $6 controller so all up $56.

You would be able to do this for other brands of fridges also.

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Ill upload a link to the controller and a wiring diagram soon.
 
YES please.

The bigger fans can help with the efficiencies as to ON / Off timing but all subject to the system losses.

I have done a couple but not done as much as you have.

Like your work.

A few systems out there that get dumped and the only problem is the the sensor has failed. Some system have 2 sensors put in and only one connected. Thus if it fails under warranty, the supplier just swaps over the sensor and tells you that you have had a new compressor fitted :)
 
AngerManagement said:
YES please.

The bigger fans can help with the efficiencies as to ON / Off timing but all subject to the system losses.

I have done a couple but not done as much as you have.

Like your work.

A few systems out there that get dumped and the only problem is the the sensor has failed. Some system have 2 sensors put in and only one connected. Thus if it fails under warranty, the supplier just swaps over the sensor and tells you that you have had a new compressor fitted :)

There is a gain running the likes of the Jaycar 120mm fan over the original 100mm fan. The Jaycar fan draws a tenth of the original at .08A. My CF60 now runs TWO of these fans for less draw but far greater efficiency.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/120mm-silent-hydrodynamic-bearing-case-fan/p/YX2574

There are cheaper fans on eBay with a draw of .3A

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1pc-12V...770256?hash=item364b7dcf50:g:gHsAAOSwYt9crrJI

The ccontrroller i use. They have gone up again. Still, not a bad price.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/262904072432
 
AngerManagement said:
YES please.

The bigger fans can help with the efficiencies as to ON / Off timing but all subject to the system losses.

I have done a couple but not done as much as you have.

Like your work.

A few systems out there that get dumped and the only problem is the the sensor has failed. Some system have 2 sensors put in and only one connected. Thus if it fails under warranty, the supplier just swaps over the sensor and tells you that you have had a new compressor fitted :)

Unbelievable!

The thermistor in the Waecos are well known for giving troubles plus the original digital controllers can fail and cost $100 or more.
 
Ok, this isnt my diagram but it will do. Basically this is how most of the early Waeco fridges are. The letters down the side represent certain terminals. The only ones you need to be concerned about is the pos and neg at the top to power the new controller and the Cand T at the bottom which will now be your temp control.

Forget all the electronics and the rest of the dia as they mean nothing to you guys.

Ill upload some pics and tips of the process soon.

1568029162_4ce18cfa-ce33-43bf-93f7-a0f3b12bd2df.jpg


Al.
 
As an old Electronics tech; I always like to see ccts. Always helps me to visualise what is happening and to some times understand the flow/thinking as to why some things work/respond the way they do.

What I can never do is draw the bloody things LOL. A mate can look at the backside of a board and the it just flows for him, pin numbers and tracks etc etc. My brain just turns into scrambled eggs LOL.

Done a couple of NO BRAND fridge sensor changes and the BLOW out of dirty fans etc. AND mine will be due for a service soon.

Am looking for a 30L to 40L unit as a second unit. Like to have one act as a freezer and and the other to run more of a fridge/esky :) but again it depends on how the fish are biting or if the gold is playing the game.

But reality is more like me at camp fixing other peoples failing systems, thus need a cold drink :)
 
Would like to get something like that to keep my beer cold while I am driving...

But the cost of a new one is to expensive for me at the moment...

Goody :|
 
AngerManagement said:
As an old Electronics tech; I always like to see ccts. Always helps me to visualise what is happening and to some times understand the flow/thinking as to why some things work/respond the way they do.

What I can never do is draw the bloody things LOL. A mate can look at the backside of a board and the it just flows for him, pin numbers and tracks etc etc. My brain just turns into scrambled eggs LOL.

Done a couple of NO BRAND fridge sensor changes and the BLOW out of dirty fans etc. AND mine will be due for a service soon.

Am looking for a 30L to 40L unit as a second unit. Like to have one act as a freezer and and the other to run more of a fridge/esky :) but again it depends on how the fish are biting or if the gold is playing the game.

But reality is more like me at camp fixing other peoples failing systems, thus need a cold drink :)

Best i can handle normally is basic 12v. This sort of stuff normally has me bluffed just that i have a go and ask questions if needs be.
 
goody2shoes said:
Would like to get something like that to keep my beer cold while I am driving...

But the cost of a new one is to expensive for me at the moment...

Goody :|

Goody, watch Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree, Ebay for instance. They come up real cheap. Just make sure the fridge has the ability to get cold. No good getting one if the fridge side is knackered.
 
Jaros said:
Looks like something was living in there.

The bottom pic?

Nah all good. A very knocked around tradies fridge but it works brilliant now.

Awe i get you now. Yeah maybe it was the cheese!
 
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You need two of 2 pairs from the controller down to that panel with the Pos and Neg and the C and T. When i have cut the recess for the controller i feed some tie wire through with the cables taped to it. There is a cavity where the ribbon cable feeds through. Make sure you have either the C or the T disconnected as you dont want the thermistor active.
 

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