Homemade Gold Sucker Pump ( Creviscing Tool )

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nice weapon GC...throw up of a video of it in action when you can.
Looks the goods :)
 
Thanks guys I'm glad you all enjoy the vid, That is plastic welding AR and you could slap it together like that but you will only get out of a project the same as you put into it so one could say it probably wouldn't work as well but hey if you've only got lemons then make lemonade they say.. ;)
 
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New Camo Design for the Australian "GOLD BUSTER" Hand Dredge or whatever one might call it.... Regards GC :cool:
 
[video=480,360]https://youtu.be/GljNFQbvNDA[/video] See how you go with video if you get stuck just let me know. the thought of selling them was a bit daunting to be honest, When you are making the plate for between the rubbers in the plunger try to use something ridged like a 100mm PVC end cap the more ridged it is the more vacuum that's created unlike the blue replacement one I made for the video witch is a bit to flexible and was the reason behind me not posting a video of it working. ;)
 
Thanks Greencheeks 77........the video worked fine. Great work on this build. Again I am impressed

I am not very mechanical so I am inferring that the internal rubber flap opens upward when the pump handle is pulled up (pulling in gravel etc and water) and closes when the handle is pushed down...thereby sending the water/dirt/sand/gravel along the pipe into the holding bucket.

Three questions if I may...

1) is the rubber flap backed with something that's rigid ( to stop the flap flexing and content being pushed back out the inlet sucker on the downward stroke of the pump) ?

2) how did you make the flap hinge ?

3) Is the main body of the pump made from 90mm stormwater pipe or 100mm sewer grade pipe?

thanks again, really appreciate your time and help on this.

MikeB05 :)

Most of the 'gold' I have found so far, comes from the learning from others
 
Here is a little diagram or 2 I don't know if it will make it more confusing but its the best I could do :lol: kind of, if the rubbers on the valve are cut correctly they will not suck back into or be pushed into the inlet or the outlet pipes. the main body is 100mm and the flaps are quite simple the trick is to make room for the hinge so the flap can move freely and when you weld the 2 pieces together make sure the hole that you drill in the 100mm to 50mm reducer is in the right place you want the gravel to fall out of the flap valve and straight down the outlet pretty much while its on the angle that it would be mostly worked at in a creek
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Greencheeks 77,
Thankyou for all the photos, diagrams and details. I appreciate your effort in doing all this.

I am going to have a crack at this and will let you know how I go. My local hardware shop already knows that I build some weird stuff...so this should keep them (and me) intrigued.

thanks again
MikeB05 :)
 

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